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fuel line connection help pics

quint

Contributing Member
1991 VP 570. My fuel line connection coming out of the fuel water/filter to the fuel pump has a weeping leak. Not to the point where its spewing in the bilge but when I rub my fingers around the connection my fingers are covered in gasoline. See the pics below. Does anybody know the corrrect fix for this? Tightning the connection with wrenches or gas approved teflon tape or sealant? I've never worked on a fuel line system before but it seems like basic plumbing connections. By the way what is safe plug for rubber fuel line hose when I attempt to fix this..I remember my mechanic friend using a thin spark plug and the existing hose clamp.
 

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I could be wrong, and i think everyone has there own preference, but i use Teflon paste on the two adapters going into the housing. if the weep is from the rubber fuel line it could be anything from loose clamp (there should be two clamps on a fuel line) to a bad hose, on the metal side it should be a steel flare fitting, it could be a crack in the flare from vibration or just a loose fitting, find where and trouble shoot from there, or start fro, scratch and remove/repair/replace all pieces.
 
If that is a flare nut screwed directly into the filter housing or is that a hose barb? It looks like a Barb. If that is a flared fuel line that was cut and a hose installed over it, you need to remove it and install a hose barb.

If it is a Barb, replace it. I use Teflon. Also, Inspect the housing for cracks.
 
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the leak/weeping is from the all metal connection fitting in the back..coming out of the fuel water seperator closest to the engine block
 
The mechanical connection does not need any sealer. You have to take the line apart and look at the mating surfaces for small cracks. When this type of fitting(Inverted Flare) is over tightened it cracks and leaks.
 
take it off and to your local parts store, they sell prefabed pipe at mixed lengths, any partsman worth his salt can help you with the correct size, length and most likely bend also, easy peasy lemon squezy
 
Your 1991 equipment is twenty years old! Time for an upgrade, IMO.

If this were mine, I'd get this "Off-Engine" by removing the metal fuel line to the pump, the filter base and fuel hose up to the fuel tank fitting.
I'd then purchase a new base and mount it Off-Engine where I'd have easier access to it. Perhaps somewhere that would allow for a RACOR to be added (need additional height for the metal drain bowl).

I'd then re-plumb it using the correct "brass" TP fittings (no more steel fittings), and use the correct Marine approved fuel line.

Now you'll have no concerns about fittings and/or hoses. :)


BTW, while the tapered thread pitch ultimately creates the seal, TP or TPT (tapered pipe threads) require lubrication when being assembled. This would be the threads such as the filter base unit and the Inlet/Outlet of the fuel pump itself.
Thread sealant doubles as the thread lubricant to prevent thread gawling.
Use only those thread sealants that are recommended for gasoline w/ E10 potential.

.
 
Thanks for all the good info everyone. Ricardo I never even thought about your great idea and I had a chance to buy a racor filter with metal drain bowl that fit my engine for 75% off at boaters world rate before they closed there doors and I didn't because I didn't have the clearance from my stringer. s*%#! If I do remount the fuel filter up by the tank and run rubber hose down to the fuel pump, I still have to adapt a hose to metal fitting just before it goes into the fuel pump correct? even if the connection is just a few inches long correct?
 
If I do remount the fuel filter up by the tank and run rubber hose down to the fuel pump, I still have to adapt a hose to metal fitting just before it goes into the fuel pump correct? even if the connection is just a few inches long correct?
The filter base and fuel pump threads should be 1/4" TP.
Just pick three brass barbed fittings....... 1/4" TP X's whatever your hose ID is..... probably 3/8".

82865_is

Be sure to use the all SS band clamps of the correct size.
Too large, and the flat under the worm screw prevents a good radial compression on the OD of the hose.
Preferably the non-perferated band or Euro style.
FMHC1116.jpg


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