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Fuel filter advice?

B

brodscomode

Member
Well theres too much snow to work today so I figure its the perfect time to start ordering parts for the boat. My idea is to replace the majority of the fuel lines in the boat and clean out the fuel tank due to the fuel being at least 3 years old (bought the boat with a full 220 gal tank and tried just running it but had nothing but problems all summer). So Im planning on replacing the two brass canaster filters with spin on filters for ease of replacement and i see that the Sierra filter assemblys have 4 ports, does this mean i can run both motors through 1 filter? also is it worth pulling out all the copper and replacing it with rubber? I am also debating new pumps so that the whole system will be new, any info is greatly appreciated.:cool:
 
IMO, best to install separate fuel filters for each engine. Chose the Micron rating that you want and flow capacity as per engine demands.
Check out the Parker RACOR system.
GLM and Sierra now both offer this same system under their names. Pretty hard to beat the RACOR I/B system for marine use.

BTW, these are available as a retro-fit kit.... you can use any existing spin-on type cartridge filter base, just purchase the RACOR for the appropriate thread pitch/size.

As for the fuel lines, USCG regs require a specifically rated fuel line for gasoline use.

Custom formed steel tubing from fuel pump to carburetor would be best, IMO.
However, from the fuel inlet on the engine (usually the fuel pump to the carburetor) you must use Type A1-15 with the correct fuel line barbed fittings, with the correct size AWAB 316 Stainless Steel worm-drive band clamps.

Each fuel vent line or fill line must be USCG Type A1-15 and the line from the fuel tank to the engine inlet must be type A1-15;
UNLESS:
if no more than five ounces of fuel is discharged in 2 1/2 minutes when:
(A) The hose is severed at the point where maximum drainage of fuel would occur,
(B) The boat is in its static floating position, and
(C) The fuel system is filled to the capacity market on the tank label.
Then you may use Type B1-15.

Source
 
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The spin on type Sierra or Mercruiser filters work great for gas engines and yes you need one for each. The last issue of Passagemaker Magazine talked about fuel lines and said that copper is still a very good choice because of it's ability to withstand flexing and vibration and it's cheaper than the Coast Guard approved flexible hose.

Dan
 
The standard water separating filter absorption is limited to the filter media's ability to retain moisture. These make a very good budget system.
images


The RACOR filter system uses an entirely different technique to separate water from gasoline, and offers a bowl that collects the moisture..... Far superior, IMO.
pr1416_L.jpg


The RACOR can be purchased as a complete system (cartridge, bowl and base), or as a retro-fit to an existing Volvo Penta, Mercruiser/Sierra, or OMC thread base unit. All needed is the thread size/pitch.

Gasoline O/B shown on left side...... Gasoline I/B shown at right side.
images


.
 
I use the racors in my inboards. Not quite as easy as the other spin-ons because of the addition of the bowl, but a much better system I feel. I like the drain as well.
 
The Racors are great if you're using corn gas. Just crack open the plug and let the water out. Should probably replace filter more often anyway. Great to check on the condition of the fuel without removing the filter. If you use corn gas and see water in the filter, don't dismay, it means the filter is doing it's job!
 
I have the spin on type and have been replacing them every 6 months for the last 10 years and have never seen more than several drops of water in the bottom of them, good cheap system. I always carry at least 4 extras in case I get a bad load of fuel. There are very specific installation requirements for putting the Racors in a gas powered boat.

Dan
 
tolly_family said:
................... There are very specific installation requirements for putting the Racors in a gas powered boat.
Dan
Click to expand...
Dan, I'm not necessarily taking issue with you on this, but rather want to explain that the only requirements are that the metal bowl must be used in an enclosed area, such as an I/B or I/O installation.
Gravity (re; the drain plug) is no more of an issue than with a standard filter unit. Our fuel system Anti-Siphon valves should be in place and working regardless of filter type! Yes/No?

The RACOR does require additional height so that a container can be placed underneath the drain bowl.

.
 
15%....??? The couple stations that were selling non ethanol gas
stopped last summer and switched back to 10%.

With all these budgets cuts coming out of Wash. the new
sacred cow is ethanol subsidy's. Not one cent cut from that.



Jack
 
..."With all these budgets cuts coming out of Wash. the new
sacred cow is ethanol subsidy's. Not one cent cut from that."

Yeah, and gues who the "sacred cows" are that are being slaughtered; the taxpayers!

If you want to talk about a total looser, ethanol addition to gas is the one! Even that fat fool (Al GOre) now admits that burning our FOOD for fuel is a bad idea.

Jeff
 
Corn as a food, eh? Hmmmmm.
I must admit, it tastes great on the cob with real butter, but it's often used as a filler in Pet and Human Food, provides lousy nutritional value, and helps produce an even more lousy version of Gasoline!
 
Corn also provides an additive in over four THOUSAND items sold in a typical grocery store. And as for its nutritional value, the right type of corn has quite a bit. Not so the corn grown for ethanol, however; it's nutritional value is deliberately low to improve ethanol production. Finally, food shortages--and escalating prices--around the world are mainly due to burning up our food! It has to stop.

Jeff
 
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