"Hmmm.... So, on my last boat
"Hmmm.... So, on my last boat of many years ago, since the engine was secured properly, my donk didn't dunk?(grin). Couldn't resist. A new one on me, never heard of a donk.
On a serious note pertaining to this 1989 110hp Johnson..... Be advised that holding the ignition switch in the start position and keeping the electric starter engaged over a twenty (20) second period WILL RESULT }in having the starter's armature MELT LEAD at the commutator (Brush Area) which will effectively destroy the starter.
The engine should start and run within six (6) revolutions. Failure to do so would be due to:
Fouled carburetors, faulty fuel primer solenoid, weak ignition, poor compression, or slow cranking speed.
Primer solenoid test: Remove one primer outlet hose at the carburetor, or in some cases at the intake manifold. Pump the fuel primer bulb up hard. Engine not running... turn the key to the ON position and push it in. If fuel shoots out that small hose, the primer solenoid is operational.
Spark test: Remove all spark plugs. Rig a spark tester whereas you can set a gap of 7/16". Crank the engine over. The spark shouild jump that 7/16" gap with a strong blue lightning like flame... a real SNAP! A tester can be made cheaply as follows.
(Spark Tester - Home Made)
(J. Reeves)
A spark tester can be made with a piece of 1x4 or 1x6, drive a few finishing nails through it, then bend the pointed ends at a right angle. You can then adjust the gap by simply twisting the nail(s). Solder a spark plug wire to one which you can connect to the spark plug boots, and a ground wire of some kind to the other to connect to the powerhead somewhere. Use small alligator clips on the other end of the wires to connect to ground and to the spark plug connector that exists inside of the rubber plug boot.
Using the above, one could easily build a spark tester whereas the!y could connect 2, 4, 6, or 8 cylinders all at one time. The ground nail being straight up, the others being bent, aimed at the ground nail. A typical 4 cylinder tester follows:
..........X1..........X2
.................X..(grd)
..........X3..........X4
When time permits, visit my store at: stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store
Cranking speed: The ignition on that model has what is called Magneto Capacitance Discharge ignition and is self contained, meaning it does not derive its power from battery voltage. It's power is derived from the flywheel magnets rotating around the stator windings in the green component under the flywheel. The engine must crank over at least 300 rpms in order for the stator to deliver approximately 300 AC volts to the powerpack capacitor. Anything less results in weak or no ignition.
Also, if that stator is cracked and/or leaking a substance down on the timer base and powerhead, the same faulty ignition situation will exist even though the cranking speed is correct. This problem one can check visually.
Compression: Remove ALL spak plugs then check with a proper tester. What are the individual readings?
Fouled carburetor(s): Remove the bottom side float chamber plug screws. If any of them are discolored, assume that a fouled carburetor condition exists. In which case, remove, clean, and rebuild all of them. NOTE... An engine that has been sitting for a few months each year will absolutely develop fouled carburetors at some point in time.
Let us know what you find."