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Fried Instrument Panel

K

Klink

Regular Contributor
On my 1993 25hp Johnson, I installed a Battery charging kit 0174037 that I picked up on EBay for $50. I used it like three days and it worked fine. Then yesterday, as the boat reached plane, I saw the tack go to like 6000 rpm (it had not done more than 4400, as I was working on the prop), then the tach started to smoke behind the glass cover. I thought I looked at the digital voltmeter and saw 16.7 volts, then I turned off everything. I disconnected the battery positive terminal and covered the cable in electrical tape and rope started the motor again, (it is both rope and electrical) and went on with the fishing trip. I know the tach and the digital voltmeter are fried. Of other instruments, the water temp gauge may have survived.

I will investigate what happened tomorrow, I think it is the rectifier, No? I have a good multimeter, can anyone tell me what to look for?
 
The battery is a regular lead acid battery a Walmart dual purpose 24DP-4. The battery was not starting the boat and was not holding a charge. I fully charged it and it was at 13 volts, then when connected dropped to 12.6 overnight, with the battery switch turned off. It would not start the 25hp, which one hand crank did. Maybe the battery plates are bad and caused the battery not to act as a regulator? I'm going to buy a new battery.

re: Do not run the motor with the battery disconnected you risk cooking the stator

Not good news! I ran it for like one hour running time disconnected, though I did have the engine ground wires hooked up to the battery. Hopefully the stator survived, it is only a 4 amp charger.

Any observations?
 
On the 9.9 models you can run with no battery.-------Need to make sure that + cable is covered !!!-----Basically same charging system.
 
I tested the stator and rectifier per the manual with an Ohmeter.

Stator Tests

(A) The first Stator test calls for black ohmmeter (OM) lead to stator yellow/blue lead and the red OM lead to the stator yellow lead and should read .55 ohms - I got .7 to .8 ohms
The 2nd Stator test calls for black ohmmeter (OM) lead to stator yellow/blue lead and the red OM lead to the stator yellow/gray lead and should read .55 ohms - I got .7 to .8 ohms

(B) The other stator test is for grounded condition;

The first test calls for the OM black lead to a clean ground and the other lead to the stator yellow/blue lead, it says the meter should show a high reading that if it shows a low reading the stator is grounded. I got a 0.L reading, an open circuit.

The 2nd test calls for the OM black lead to a clean ground and the other lead to the stator yellow/gray lead, it says the meter should show a high reading that if it shows a low reading the stator is grounded. I got a 0.L reading, an open circuit.

Rectifier Test

Test 1 - connect one OM lead to a clean ground and the other OM lead to the rectifier yellow/gray, then to the rectifier yellow lead, then to the rectifier yellow/blue lead. Then reverse the OM leads and do the test again. The results call for a high reading in one direction and a low reading in the other direction for a good rectifier and two high readings or two low readings for a bad rectifier. I got 0.L in one direction and 4.5 million amps in the other direction on all three wires.

Test 2 - connect one OM lead to the rectifier red lead and the other OM lead to the rectifier yellow/gray, then to the rectifier yellow lead, then to the rectifier yellow/blue lead. Then reverse the OM leads and do the test again. The results call for a high reading in one direction and a low reading in the other direction for a good rectifier and two high readings or two low readings for a bad rectifier. I got 0.L in one direction and 4.5 million amps in the other direction on all three wires.

Since I'm getting 0.L, open circuits, aren't both the stator and the rectifier bad?
 
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The charging system worked fine for a few hours then went bad. The only thing I could think I did was charge the battery with a charger, with the engine cables connected, but the shutoff switch off. The only connection between the battery and the engine would have been the ground wire. I normally totally disconnect the cables when I charge a battery, however, since this had a shutoff switch I did that.
 
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