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FloScan install underway

S

silv360oz

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"Hi folks.

The flo-scan is

"Hi folks.

The flo-scan is starting to be installed, I was planning on installing the electrics and putting it into the garmin network tomorrow but I'm needing some advise/affirmation from you guys.

I have a twin Crusader 454XL EFI set up. The fuel system pipes all have screw threads for connecting to the tanks, and to the engine.

When I asked my service agent to install the actual mechanical fuel flow sensor, I asked them to disconnect the existing pipes (in and return) where they connect to the engine, put in the in-line fuel filter, sensor, and vibration damper, and then add an extra 2-3 feet of pipe to connect back to the engine. All components are screw threaded.

However, when they did the job, they cut the existing fuel lines and installed the components inline. And used hose clamp to clamp the pipe onto the components.

I'm nervous enough about the results of fuel vapours in boat engine bays (seen enough insurance photos), so the fact they cut the pipes and used hose clamps rather than doing the way I requested is making me really worried. I've been assured there isn't and won't be any problem as this is a low pressure system, but I'm not convinced.

Should I be worried? Advice would be greatly appreciated."
 
"I think hose barbs and clamps

"I think hose barbs and clamps are acceptable, as long as done correctly. My whole boat, both engines fuel system from Tiara is done this way. There must be 2 hose clamps on each barb, and they must be all stainless, not the cheap ones with stainless band and iron screw. Welcome others comments on this as I am about to install the Floscan also.}"
 
""Screw threads" means

""Screw threads" means NPT (tapered pipe threads)?

Ditto mrpops query!

You mentioned inlet and return pipes; is this a returnless system or one with a return to the tank?

You only need one hose clamp over the barb on a fuel fitting; no harm in using two.

If they cut metal fuel tubing and slipped the hose over it, I'd be a bit upset, too.

A picture or two would help a lot with the details."
 
"Hi guys, sorry for delay in r

"Hi guys, sorry for delay in replying but we've been working on installing and configuring the electrics.

The fuel lines are rubber. We have a return fuel system. The flowcan sensors only allow room for one hose clamp. We took the boat out for a trial the other day and were somewhat relieved to see that we had no leaks.

376245.jpg


Here is a pic of one the sensors.

Initial results are interesting, Overtime we will start to play with the different trim/rev settings to see what we can do with things.

The other day we were battling tides both going out and coming in and had to contend with 20-25knot winds, not easy to consider settings when mother nature is being difficult.

At 21 knots we are seemingly burning 80 litres an hour at 4000rpm"
 
"I think a fuel injection clam

"I think a fuel injection clamp would be better instead of the worm drive clamps. I just did a similar repair like that on my Audi, re-using the existing barb connections. My only other option would be replacing the line from under the hood back to the tank.

I don't know if they make them in SS though. I would assume so, they must be used elsewhere on EFI marine engines.


Bob"
 
"Is the dampner "bomb"

"Is the dampner "bomb" on the IN port? A bit hard to read in that photo, but it needs to be on the OUT sensor port. I see nothing unsafe with the installation. These are not on the pressure side of the fuel pump. Leaks are typically suction leaks, bringing in air while underway."
 
"Mechanical workmanship looks

"Mechanical workmanship looks ok....looks like they used thread sealer vs. teflon tape - a good thing.

The hose barbs selected is the limiting factor on using one vs. two clamps. Like Bob suggested, the "injection" clamps are 'nicer' to the hose. I've seen them in 100% stainless though that version is not typical, at least around here."
 
An interesting comment Makomar

An interesting comment Makomark. Why do you perfer sealer vs. teflon tape? I have used the latter on my fuel lines.

Chuck
 
"Sounds like you have some int

"Sounds like you have some intergration of the sensors. Two years ago I installed twin flow-scan and although the sensors are very very helpful, the round twin floscan gauge that came with the package is cheap and I cannot control the back light on/off or intensity like other gauges on dash.

Ps Used red thread sealer and 4-5 inches after racor seperators. No gas or air leaks."
 
"Chuck:

Unless applied corr

"Chuck:

Unless applied correctly, Teflon tape can shred and move through the system, plugging something up. The trick is to wind it on a fitting such that NO tape can work its way free. (Tough to describe in words.) I remove any tape that is past the end of the fitting.

Jeff

PS: On really critical fittings--such as that on a carb that's after all filters--I use an OMC liquid goop that resembles that brown Permatex stuff."
 
"Chuck:

Jeff's words pr

"Chuck:

Jeff's words pretty much cover the concern. I've removed those "hairs" out of many fuel system components. The best stuff I've found is loctite's PST (Pipe Sealant w/ Teflon). Permatex (#14, I think) is usually easier to get and is white in color.

As Scott hinted at, Loctite's thread sealants are also effective. 271 works great but is a PITA if you have to remove the fitting."
 
"This has been very helpful.

"This has been very helpful. I will rework my fuel system this spring for both engines and generator. I will switch away from teflon tape.

Thanks,

Chuck Hanson"
 
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