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Ficht 175hp 2000 outboard

gtripp01

New member
Help to find someone to work on my 2000 175hp ficht outboard. Jackson, Michigan area. 3 mechanics told me it is junk and will not even take a look at it. Bought a diagnostic code device and have the following codes pop up.

Current active fault Code 13 Throttle position sensor

Occured faults

Code 22 Water Temperature Switch Closed 5 times
Code 15 Rom Checksum EMM program 255 times
Code 13 Throttle Position Sensor 104 times
Code 96 not defined 24 times

Any suggestions?
 
Dude, its not worth messing with. Great, you can read codes, there's no parts or interest in getting them running for the last 15 years. They were a flawed design and quickly became obsolete.; helping to put OMC out of business. Don't throw money at the last Chevy Vega, great idea that didn't work.
 
Be very cautious of how much $$ you put into this outboard. As Fitz said, there were many flaws in these engines, but the problems could be hit or miss and some of them were okay. The fact that yours is 25 years old and still running means you got one that was okay to start with. As for your current problem, what is the engine doing/not doing?

Have you tested the TPS or just read the code? These were a 3-wire sensor which means you have a ground, 5 volt reference, and signal. Just do an internet search for "how to test a 3 wire throttle position sensor" and you'll find plenty of information. In short, you need to ensure you have good 5 volt power at the sensor and when the throttle plate moves from closed to wide open the sensor shows smooth, consistent voltage changes from about 0.5 volt to 4.5 volt on the signal wire. If your voltage on the signal wire is jerky or jumps wildly at any point the sensor is bad.

If you don't have 5 volts at the sensor, check the wiring harness to make sure the ground wire reads 0 ohm to a block ground location. Next, make sure the 5V power wire has 5 volts to a block ground. If either of those fails you probably have a bad EMM because the ground to the sensor and the 5volt reference were both delivered through the EMM. You can have the EMM repaired (about $500 +), but this is the point where you ask yourself if you want to put more money into an outboard that is increasingly difficult to repair due to parts being unavailable and shops not wanting to touch them.

The TPS is no longer available new, but can find good used ones on Ebay or call around to shops selling used outboard parts.
 
Help to find someone to work on my 2000 175hp ficht outboard. Jackson, Michigan area. 3 mechanics told me it is junk and will not even take a look at it. Bought a diagnostic code device and have the following codes pop up.

Current active fault Code 13 Throttle position sensor

Occured faults

Code 22 Water Temperature Switch Closed 5 times
Code 15 Rom Checksum EMM program 255 times
Code 13 Throttle Position Sensor 104 times
Code 96 not defined 24 times

Any suggestions?
Thank you for the info. Just was hoping for an easy fix. Sounds like i need to unload.
Dude, its not worth messing with. Great, you can read codes, there's no parts or interest in getting them running for the last 15 years. They were a flawed design and quickly became obsolete.; helping to put OMC out of business. Don't throw money at the last Chevy Vega, great idea that didn't work.
Be very cautious of how much $$ you put into this outboard. As Fitz said, there were many flaws in these engines, but the problems could be hit or miss and some of them were okay. The fact that yours is 25 years old and still running means you got one that was okay to start with. As for your current problem, what is the engine doing/not doing?

Have you tested the TPS or just read the code? These were a 3-wire sensor which means you have a ground, 5 volt reference, and signal. Just do an internet search for "how to test a 3 wire throttle position sensor" and you'll find plenty of information. In short, you need to ensure you have good 5 volt power at the sensor and when the throttle plate moves from closed to wide open the sensor shows smooth, consistent voltage changes from about 0.5 volt to 4.5 volt on the signal wire. If your voltage on the signal wire is jerky or jumps wildly at any point the sensor is bad.

If you don't have 5 volts at the sensor, check the wiring harness to make sure the ground wire reads 0 ohm to a block ground location. Next, make sure the 5V power wire has 5 volts to a block ground. If either of those fails you probably have a bad EMM because the ground to the sensor and the 5volt reference were both delivered through the EMM. You can have the EMM repaired (about $500 +), but this is the point where you ask yourself if you want to put more money into an outboard that is increasingly difficult to repair due to parts being unavailable and shops not wanting to touch them.

The TPS is no longer available new, but can find good used ones on Ebay or call around to shops selling used outboard parts.
Thank you for the information. I will check this out first and was hoping to get a year or two out of this before I get another outboard/boat.
 
Thank you for the info. Just was hoping for an easy fix. Sounds like i need to unload.


Thank you for the information. I will check this out first and was hoping to get a year or two out of this before I get another outboard/boat.
Hopefully it's a simple fix and you can get a little more life out of the engine. If the engine will require big $$ to repair then it's definitely time to make a decision, the proverbial fork in the road.

If the hull is in good shape (transom, stringers, floor, finish), if it fits your needs, and more importantly fits your budget, then doing a re-power could be the right choice. If there are different features you want in the boat or the hull isn't in great shape then shopping for another rig is where you need to go.

You might be able to find a good used outboard if you re-power, but if not there are some decent new options. Fall is a great time to shop because dealers with leftover stock are looking to move them before they buy 2026 models for their showroom.
 
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