Logo
FULL SITE MENU

Fastwin 18hp timing

N

Nucad

Regular Contributor
From what I can see, the preferred method to set the timing is with the fixture ( part#383602). These seem to be quite elusive. Do other methods work as well? Ideally I'd like to have this fixture on hand if I can find one.....or do most get just as good results by merely setting the point gap?
 
You can use a ohm meter and set the points it is a bit time consuming but you get precise results. Pull the flywheel and remove the wire from the condenser and add a wire through the plate to the points. Put the flywheel back on and tighten the flywheel nut finger tight. On the side of the points plate is two marks and the flywheel has two marks 180 degrees out one for each set of points. connect your ohm meter to the wire and short the other one to ground. Then spin the flywheel clockwise and the points should just open as the single mark on the flywheel passes center of the marks on the plate. If your engine has the kill switch just use those wires be sure and disconnect the condensers. Once you get the points opening at the correct time then you can torque the flywheel to spec (very important). You are putting in new OEM brand points and condensers correct? New coils are also recommended if they are dark blue or black.
 
kimcrwbr1 said:
You can use a ohm meter and set the points it is a bit time consuming but you get precise results. Pull the flywheel and remove the wire from the condenser and add a wire through the plate to the points. Put the flywheel back on and tighten the flywheel nut finger tight. On the side of the points plate is two marks and the flywheel has two marks 180 degrees out one for each set of points. connect your ohm meter to the wire and short the other one to ground. Then spin the flywheel clockwise and the points should just open as the single mark on the flywheel passes center of the marks on the plate. If your engine has the kill switch just use those wires be sure and disconnect the condensers. Once you get the points opening at the correct time then you can torque the flywheel to spec (very important). You are putting in new OEM brand points and condensers correct? New coils are also recommended if they are dark blue or black.
Click to expand...

Thanks for that detailed information.I am putting in new OE points and condenser.Hadn't planned on the coils, but I suppose it might make sense at this point.
 
Changing the coils?... Keep the following in mind!

********************
(Magneto & Driver Coil Alignment)
(J. Reeves)

To align the coils properly, have the metal vertical portion of the coil yokes aligned with the inside edge of the bevel that exists on the top portion of the aluminum seat upon which the coils sit. This creates the proper distance between the coils and the flywheel magnets. Faulty alignment creates friction and the yokes of the coils heat up, turn blue and expand.
********************
Timing is set by the flywheel key and a non adjustable mechanical full spark advance stop.
********************
Setting the points with a ohm meter and the timing marks is great, but for those that just aren't interested in obtaining true accuracy.....

Having the flywheel key aligned with the fiber rubbing portion of the points, then setting the points so that a .020 gauge slides through... BUT... a ,022 will not will get you quite close to perfection.
 
A problem with these coils is that they crack and arc out to the stator. Sometimes aftermarket coils will arc through the bottom seam where the coating mold meets. A visual inspection is most often all that is needed. Make sure no wires to the coil or points are pinched or rubbing, especially if you have a stop button. The stator plate and coil face has to be set at the TOP of the tiny chamfer, not flush with the lower face on the stator post. Many Outboards that I repair have been set wrong and the coils rub. This causes excessive stator movement as well as small filings floating around. Be sure to use a little grease on the points stem. The stator hub play needs to be considered when setting the points. Find a happy medium in the mid throttle position. Make sure cam is snug on crank/key. I always pull stator, clean hub and regrease also checking plug wires underneath. Replace with high quality copper core. I just did a Johnson 6 that someone had put one carbon core Packard wire on. Externally it looked the same as the other wire on cyl 2. This caused a weak spark on cylinder 1 and resulting poor starting and low speed running. Mr. Reeves may feel as I on the points/timing. Not so critical to need an ohmeter. The stator hub play will affect the point gap as the throttle is moved around anyway. Just clean the old grease and wear particles off the hub to minimize any additional wear. I use a high quality grease the best that money can buy, Amsoil.
 
Last edited:
You must remove the plate when changing the coils, do them one at a time and push the wire fully into the coil and then slide the boot up tight then install the coil.
 
Back
Top