Logo
FULL SITE MENU

Extremely rapid chirping from warning horn, 1994 Evinrude Ocean Pro 150

S

Steveo123

New member
Hi everyone;

First post here, but have been lurking for a while. I have a 1994 Grady White 192 Tournament with the original 1994 Evinrude 150 Ocean Pro. The original horn's speaker blew out, so I replaced it with a new one of the same type/model. This is the version with two male terminals and a ground wire. One terminal of course receives the tan temp sensor wire, and the other terminal receives the purple ignition "power" wire. I have the ground wire terminating at the ground "M" terminal on the ignition.

My problem is this: when I turn the ignition switch to the run position (i.e. the first click to the right), the warning horn beeps briefly, as it should, indicating it's working. Then, immediately thereafter, the horn begins a very rapid chirping. I estimate it's probably something like 2-4 times per second. It does not stop. If I start the engine, the rapid beeping continues. This symptom is the same regardless of engine temp, in the water or out (on muffs). Disconnecting the tan temp sensor wire stops the chirping, but it seems like a red herring, since this symptom occurs before the engine is even started and when it's dead cold. I've moved the ground around, just to make sure that's not the problem, and have observed the same symptom.

I've looked through the various threads that address continued beeping, but nothing seems to fit my fact pattern (i.e. the EXTREMELY fast chirping). Any ideas about what causes this and/or ideas about how to track down the cause would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks to everyone in advance!
 
racerone said:
Why did you put ground to the " M " terminal ??-----Was the old one connected there ?
Click to expand...

Hi there. Thanks for responding. Yes, the original horn was grounded to the non-raised m terminal. I also moved the ground to the fuse box that I confirmed had good ground, with the same symptoms.
 
Rwbutler said:
Is the purple wire on correct terminal?
Is it an OEM horn?
Click to expand...

Yep; the purple wire is connected to the "A" terminal on the ignition switch. The horn is original equipment. It came with the wires connected to a harness, which I eliminated because my wiring does not have the other side/mating side of the harness. However, I wired the three wires consistently with the way it was previously wired, which is also consistent with the wiring diagram I have.
 
The "Raised" ignition switch "M" terminal should have ONLY the Black/Yellow wire attached. The regular "M" terminal of the ignition switch should ONLY have the plain Black ignition ground wire attached.

The Black ground wire from the horn should be attached to a battery ground point... NOT to either of the ignition switch "M" terminals.
The "TAN" wire at the horn terminal area must be attached to the slide on terminal closest to the built in black ground wire. Otherwise weird things will happen.

Any other wire, for instance... if a ground wire leading from a accessory being powered by battery voltage is attached to a "M" terminal, with the key in the OFF position BUT with the accessory still being powered, voltage would be flowing thru the accessory down that black wire to one "M" terminal, jumping to the other "M" terminal due to the "M" terminals being shorted together to kill the ignition in the OFF position... and from that "M" terminal, that accessory voltage would have access to components with what amounts to reverse polarity. Not Good! With the key in the ON position? Still Not Good!
 
joereeves said:
The "Raised" ignition switch "M" terminal should have ONLY the Black/Yellow wire attached. The regular "M" terminal of the ignition switch should ONLY have the plain Black ignition ground wire attached.

The Black ground wire from the horn should be attached to a battery ground point... NOT to either of the ignition switch "M" terminals.
The "TAN" wire at the horn terminal area must be attached to the slide on terminal closest to the built in black ground wire. Otherwise weird things will happen.

Any other wire, for instance... if a ground wire leading from a accessory being powered by battery voltage is attached to a "M" terminal, with the key in the OFF position BUT with the accessory still being powered, voltage would be flowing thru the accessory down that black wire to one "M" terminal, jumping to the other "M" terminal due to the "M" terminals being shorted together to kill the ignition in the OFF position... and from that "M" terminal, that accessory voltage would have access to components with what amounts to reverse polarity. Not Good! With the key in the ON position? Still Not Good!
Click to expand...

Thanks for the detailed information; I'll look into the various wiring and revise it as applicable. Hopefully, this will take care of the issue!

Again, thanks!
 
Boobie said:
I've seen this happen before and it turned out to be a bad horn.
Click to expand...

Glad to see that you're still up and around Boobie.... Myself?, I got so tired of being isolated that I'd drop in occasionally on my ole stomping grounds to make sure I was still here. Yeah, I neglected to state the "Bad Horn" syndrome thing... glad you picked up on it. I did have a test for that as follows.

Test: Key ON... If horn is chirping away - temporarily remove the Tan wire from the horn - If horn continues to chirp=horn is faulty.
 
Here's what I found out: the culprit is the tan wire coming from the oil tank. The chirping stopped when I disconnected this wire, but didn't stop when I disconnected the temp sensors.

I assume that I can simply leave the oil tank tan wire disconnected, right? I further assume this is simply the low oil warning wire? If so, I'll just leave it disconnected, since I can just look at the tank and affirm the oil level.

Is this right?

Thanks in advance, and thanks for all of the input that led me to this point!
 
Back
Top