Logo

Evinrude vindicator 225 outboard Died on me

bronco9235

New member
"OK I am A new Guy on the Boar

"OK I am A new Guy on the Board So Please Be nice to me ..
I was Out on my Boat last Sunday. I have a 25 Cig with a 225 evinrude vindicator outboard With a Bob's Low water pick up And 28 chopper..Anyway This Motor Never gave me any Kinda Trouble .. I had the Motor Idling for about 15 min and I was under way .I went out of the inlet and Took off Running great for about 10 min's In rough water ,Then It started to bog down then Died on me ..I went to try and Start it And It would Start up then Die For 2 sec's So I waited for about 10 min's Started it up And It ran ok with me Giving it throttle For about 1 min and Died... Now It doesn't do anything ..

Heres what I did in the water.
I take the Axy fuel filter of and opened the water drained on the filter ..No water

I primed the Ball And started at the some time Nothing .

At home
Put A new Fuel filter on
New Spark plugs
Still doesn't do anything . I have Spark .."
 
"no horns, alarms, or whistles

"no horns, alarms, or whistles?

sounds like you have fuel delivery issues.

i dont know what year the vindicator was made. is it fuel injected or carbed?"
 
Sorry I thing is a 95? Its ca

Sorry I thing is a 95? Its carbed ..No Nothing No alarms My Water presure was 25psi Because I was looking at Just before It happen
 
I live In south FL There&#39

I live In south FL There's no Winter .....I last used the boat the weekend before and Ran great all weekend ..Stop at the gas staiton on Land and filled up 1 hour before all this happen...... My vent is working on my Tank But Just to check I took My gas cap of When I was trying to start it...
 
"sounds like its time for a go

"sounds like its time for a good cleaning and probably a rebuild. heres some real good instructions

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=244013

i also have this...its adjustments.......if you have adjustable carbs. not all of them are adjustable.....by joe reeves

(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
(J. Reeves)

Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

Note: As a final double check setting of the slow speed valve(s), if the engine has more than one carburetor, do not attempt to gradually adjust all of the valves/carburetors at the same time. Do one at a time until you hit the above response (die out or spit back), then go on to the next valve/carburetor. It may be necessary to back out "all" of the slow speed adjustable needle valves 1/8 turn before doing this final adjustment due to the fact that one of the valves might be initially set ever so slightly lean.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.
--------------------------------------------------
(Carburetor Adjustments - Two Adjustable N/Vs)
(J. Reeves)

Initial settings are: Bottom high speed = seat gently, then open 1 turn out. Top slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Setting the high and low needle valves properly:

NOTE: For engines that DO NOT have a shift selection, obviously there is no NEUTRAL position. Simply lower the rpms to the lowest setting to obtain the low speed needle va /lve adjustment.

(High Speed) Start engine (it will run pretty rough), shift into forward gear, take up to full throttle. In segments of 1/8 turn, wating for the engine to respond between turns, start turning in the bottom high speed needle valve. You'll reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the needle valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest setting.

(Low Speed) Slow the engine down to where it just stays running. Shift into neutral. Again in segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the top needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running. Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back. Again, at that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustments, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

********************
(Dual Carb V/4 With 4 (2 each carb) Slow Speed Adjustable N/Valves)
(J. Reeves)

The adjustment procedure of the carburetor slow speed needle valves follows. NOTE... if the needle valves turn too freely, replace the nylon bearing retainer (the nylon item at the front of the carb that the needle valve goes through first) with the newer type RED retainer #315232. If your engine has that weird linkage that connects all four of those needle valves, the newer RED retainers will enable you to discard that linkage. The RED retainers make it impossible for the needle valves to viberate out of adjustment.

(Carburetor Adjustment - 2 Slow Speed Adjustable Needle Valves, each carburetor)

Initial setting is: All (4) Slow speed valves = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Facing the carburetors, start with the top left needle valve, then the top right valve, then the bottom let valve, then the bottom right valve. It may be necessary to redo these steps to get the adjustments ideally set

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

Do not attempt to gradually adjust all four of the valves at the same time. Do one at a time until you hit the above response (die out or spit back), then go on to the next valve.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

********************
(Carburetor Adjustments - Older V/4 Downdraft Carb)
(J. Reeves)

NOTE: The early model downdraft carburetors incorporated "Adjustable High Speed Jets". The later model downdraft carburetors used "Fixed High Speed Jets". Follow the below instructions accordingly.

NOTE: If you do not have adjustable high speed jets, ignore those paragraphs pertaining to same...... BUT do make sure that you manually inspect and clean the two brass fixed high speed jets which would be located in back of the two 7/16" slotted hex head bolts in the bottom front portion of the float chamber.

Lift the center High Speed Control lever and turn it so that the point faces forward, resting on the high ridge. This will disengage the lever control gear from the individual high speed jets (slots). Have the slow speed needle valve knobs installed upside down so that they can be turned without encountering any obstruction.

Gently seat each of the High Speed needle valves, then back each one out one (1) turn. Gently seat each of the Slow Speed needle valves, then back each one out one and one half (1-1/2) turns. NOTE... have the jam nut on the s/speed needles snug so that viberation won't have any effect on them, but loose enough so that you can turn them without a great amout of effort.

(High Speed)
With a reliable person at the wheel, and one kneeling in front of the engine, start the engine (yes, it will run lousy with the above initial needle valve settings), put it into forward gear, and apply full throttle. Start with the High Speed adjustment on the left using a screwdrive that properly fits the slot.

(High Speed Adjustments)
At full throttle, with the proper size screwdriver, slowly start turning one of the H/S needles in segments of 1/8 turn, waiting momentarily for the engine to respond, then repeat turning. You will reach a point where the engine will start to die out. At that point, back that needle valve out approximately 1/4 turn. Now, go to the other High Speed needle valve and repeat that procedure. At some point in that 1/4 turn out, you will find the smoothest high speed setting (you can now lower the throttle rpm). That will have both high speed needle valves set correctly, and at that point you can lift that center lever adjustment of that high ridge, keeping it lifted until the point is facing the engine, then lower it into its proper position. (When you turn that lever now, you're adjusting both High Speed needle valves at the same time

(Slow Speed Adjustments)
Now, lowering the rpms of course, take the engine out of gear and set the throttle just to where the engine will stay running. Again, in segments of 1/8 turn, slowly start turning in one of the slow speed needle valves, waiting a few seconds between each turning for the engine to respond. As you turn the s/speed needles in, the rpms will increase..... and as it does, lower the rpms to where the engine will just stay running (otherwise the rpms will climb quite high). You will reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mjild backfire). At that point, back the needle valve out 1/4 turn. Repeat the process with the remaining slow speed needle. Again, at some point in that 1/4 turn out, you will find the smoothest setting. When finished, tighten the jam nut somewhat, then remove and reinstall the s/speed knobs correctly (right side up).

-------------------------------------------------"
 
A rebuild on what the motor? T

A rebuild on what the motor? That was Done Last year. And I have Great Comp I am going to Drain the carb Bowls And see what Comes out..
 
the carbs....but if you have j

the carbs....but if you have just had a eng rebuild im guessing you also had the carbs rebuilt.......have you checked all the fuel lines for leaks?

primer bulb pump up hard and stay hard?
 
do you have a good blue spark

do you have a good blue spark that will jump a 7/16" gap?

have you tried spraying pre-mix into the carbs?

are you running pre-mix or vro?
 
"you can make a single or a mu

"you can make a single or a multiple spark tester with a piece of wood, some nails, and some wire.

just drive one nail in the middle (connect a wire to it and run it to ground) then drive one nail around 1-1.5" away and bend it toward the center nail and adjust your gap there--then connect the spark plug wire to it............you can also add more nails around the center nail to test all cyls at once."
 
earlier you said you removed t

earlier you said you removed the "axy fuel filter"

when was the last time it was replaced?.......the worst time to buy gas is when the trucks are refilling or have just refilled the in-ground tanks..it stirs everything up at the bottom.

i just run the oil filter type water/fuel separator.....no need for any other filters and it is easily replaced.
 
Will start off with the basics

Will start off with the basics
1. check the compression
2. check the spark

Remember the primer bulb goes hard because the fuel pump and carbs are full of pressurised fuel then once the engine is running off the fuel pump there is vacume in the fuel line and primer this is normal
 
Its Running great agian I work

Its Running great agian I worked on it for 2 hours today I drained My Carb Bowls and the water/fuel separator Again ... Took it out for a ride and Died So I drained the Water From the separator again and runs great Now .....Thanks for all your Help .. I got ABOUT 2 QT'S OF WATER out so far.I hope there Not any more
 
"If You have got 2 qts of wate

"If You have got 2 qts of water fromthe seperator, my guess You might have a full Gallon! in the tank!!!!
Only remedy is to take out the fuel sender, use a suction pump and get it out from the bottom of the tank."
 
i tell you how i drain my tank

i tell you how i drain my tanks:

i keep about 4-5' of fuel line just in case.

take some fuel line and run it through the bilge drain---put a connector on it and connect it to the tank------when you connect the line to the tank gravity should do the work............slowly but surely.

if need be you can put you a primer bulb in the line.............its slow but you dont have to suck gas into your mouth.
 
Back
Top