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Evinrude power trim issues

R

Rejd

New member
Hey all. I recently have been having issues with my power trim. It’s on a 90hp E90TLCNB. Often it will go up really slowly then the next time it runs normanlly. It also often goes down in a clunky fashion (not smoothly). Any thoughts?
Thanks in advance.
 
Rejd said:
Hey all. I recently have been having issues with my power trim. It’s on a 90hp E90TLCNB. Often it will go up really slowly then the next time it runs normanlly. It also often goes down in a clunky fashion (not smoothly). Any thoughts?
Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...

No one? I thought someone might have a idea.
 
Sorry... For some reason, I didn't see it first time around.

1982 115 Evinrude
All of the clunky down mode ones I've encountered turned out to be the tilt shaft piston jamming within the cylinder.

The slow up mode.... a test, do this: Trace the cable back from the PTT electric motor to its connector, then use the proper jumper cables direct from a known good fully charged battery directly to the electric motor cable. If this causes the unit to work properly... you've probably got a tight but dirty connection somewhere, a loose connection, a corroded connection (take your pick :) ). Usually reworking all electrical connections, cleaning , then re-tightening takes care of that problem.

EDIT: As an after thought..... The down mode works via gravity until the engine reaches the "trim" rams. Due to this, if the steering tube/tilt tube becomes slightly corroded and the engine WILL NOT drop by itself. Do a test of gravity drop by having the engine in its fully tilted position, then releasing the manual release valve just two (2) turns (No Further!). If this condition exists, it's possible it could coincide with that chunking scenario. The engine should fall/drop of its own accord. Does it?

Remember to re-tighten that manual release valve.

Let us know what you find.
 
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Just got this non-starter EV40 2 stroke and I notice a ram on the leg. Is this power tilt and is it a hydraulic ram or air ram. Also if anyone can tell me any reasons why the electric fuel pump might not be working - can i test it by direct wiring?
 
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The factory fuel pump is NOT an electric pump !-----It has a warning module.------Pump operates off crankcase compression.
 
The wiring on the VRO fuel/oil pump pertains to the warning system.

********************
(VRO Horn Warnings)
(J. Reeves)

NOTE: I retired around 1991/92. Possibly some of the later V4 engines and others may also incorporate a fuel vacuum switch that would enable a fuel restriction warning to sound as mentioned below, an unknown factor to myself.

1 - A steady constant beep = Overheating - The V/6 engines, possibly some others, have a fuel restriction warning which is also a steady constant beep.

2 - A beep every 20 or 40 seconds = oil level has dropped to 1/4 tank. (Late model engine = Every 40 seconds)

3 - A beep every other second = VRO failure, air leak in oil line, oil restriction, (anything that would result in a lack of oil being supplied to the engine).

NOTE - If the warning horn is the black plastic (overpriced) three wire type horn, the warning horn should beep once when the ignition key is turned to the ON position. If it does not, it is either faulty or someone has disconnected it (a stupid move!). At any rate, if it does not beep which indicates that the horn is non functional, find out why and do not run the engine until the problem is corrected.
********************
 
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