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Evinrude OEM paint

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Bif54

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I am restoring a 1959 5 1/2 horse Evinrude outboard. How can I identify the correct paint number for this motor? It is a model 5518 golden jubilee model. What is the best site to purchase from?
 
Bring the cowling to the auto body supply store. I do a lot of restorations. They can match the paint. I do base/clears. Beautiful color. Love these motors. Have a complete set of Goldens, 3 to 18 hp.
 
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When I go to my auto body supply, they clean a spot on the color I want......where it hasn't faded, then read it with a computer. They can mix for me a perfect match in alkyd, acrylic enamel, or base/clear. I have been using a DeVilbiss model JGA502 gun for some 43 years and a compressor I built myself when I was 18 years old. The paint I apply is far greater quality than even the best of todays new outboards. I can spray outside on a decent day and in temps down near freezing. Since base/clears are activated, they set up very fast even in low temps. If I have decals, then I wait to do my clear coat until stickers are applied on the fresh base coat.
I once sold a repainted 25 Merc that was awe inspiring. The guy was going to throw it in the back of his truck......with no cushion, padding, or even a box liner. I gave him his money back and sold it to someone who would appreciate and take care of it.
This early new generation 15 was built from a host of spare parts with a re-ringed standard bore. I saved most of the original decals. It is a base/clear, mixed up right at the paint store. It sold with a steel base/clear 6 gallon can for 1,500 spring 2016. Lanky the calico and Abby both posed with the "Big Johnson". Jap motors are nice, but for some reason they just don't look THIS good.
 

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timguy said:
When I go to my auto body supply, they clean a spot on the color I want......where it hasn't faded, then read it with a computer. They can mix for me a perfect match in alkyd, acrylic enamel, or base/clear. I have been using a DeVilbiss model JGA502 gun for some 43 years and a compressor I built myself when I was 18 years old. The paint I apply is far greater quality than even the best of todays new outboards. I can spray outside on a decent day and in temps down near freezing. Since base/clears are activated, they set up very fast even in low temps. If I have decals, then I wait to do my clear coat until stickers are applied on the fresh base coat.
I once sold a repainted 25 Merc that was awe inspiring. The guy was going to throw it in the back of his truck......with no cushion, padding, or even a box liner. I gave him his money back and sold it to someone who would appreciate and take care of it.
This early new generation 15 was built from a host of spare parts with a re-ringed standard bore. I saved most of the original decals. It is a base/clear, mixed up right at the paint store. It sold with a steel base/clear 6 gallon can for 1,500 spring 2016. Lanky the calico and Abby both posed with the "Big Johnson". Jap motors are nice, but for some reason they just don't look THIS good.
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Beautiful job Tim, I'm another one who likes to keep my equipment looking nice as long as I can.
 
Holy cow Tim!...... this motor looks like it just came out of the factory.... awesome. (Love the precautionary "leak rag" :))
What is it a 77? 78?
More pics of your museum, please!
 
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I love keeping the "old boat anchors" running sweet. Truly admire the earlier engineering. This, the 15, has the 1974 cowling I believe, but other parts are mixed in from many years. 1973 and 74 still used a primary set of points and with the external coils. This had the points still. Later they settled on completely electronic in 75 or 76.
This "long Johnson" 6 I built special for a customer. Used a bunch of parts from different motors. He uses it as a trolling motor in Lake Superior off of Thunder Bay Ontario. He needed a good solid trusty motor. This is a base/clear finish as well. Goes to show you how nice a good auto body supply store can mix up a paint match.
 

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timguy said:
I love keeping the "old boat anchors" running sweet. Truly admire the earlier engineering. This, the 15, has the 1974 cowling I believe, but other parts are mixed in from many years. 1973 and 74 still used a primary set of points and with the external coils. This had the points still. Later they settled on completely electronic in 75 or 76.
This "long Johnson" 6 I built special for a customer. Used a bunch of parts from different motors. He uses it as a trolling motor in Lake Superior off of Thunder Bay Ontario. He needed a good solid trusty motor. This is a base/clear finish as well. Goes to show you how nice a good auto body supply store can mix up a paint match.
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Beautiful. These 70's motors can't be beat.
The cool cat loves to be pictured too I see... lol
 
timguy said:
I love keeping the "old boat anchors" running sweet. Truly admire the earlier engineering. This, the 15, has the 1974 cowling I believe, but other parts are mixed in from many years. 1973 and 74 still used a primary set of points and with the external coils. This had the points still. Later they settled on completely electronic in 75 or 76.
This "long Johnson" 6 I built special for a customer. Used a bunch of parts from different motors. He uses it as a trolling motor in Lake Superior off of Thunder Bay Ontario. He needed a good solid trusty motor. This is a base/clear finish as well. Goes to show you how nice a good auto body supply store can mix up a paint match.
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1974-1976 9.9/15 hp motors used the low tension magneto with points there was no 1973 9.9/15 hp. The electronic ignition was not put on those motors until the 1977 models. VERY NICE work on the painting that looks really nice.
 
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15 johnson powerhead 3-21-16 003.jpg Here is the 15 powerhead after base/clear. This was a complete color change from a Johnson, also std. bore.
Yes that's right. Last year for 9.5 Stubbies was 73. Then the new generation 9.9 and 15's. Full electronic by 77. I love these motors, they were truly made for fishermen. Thanks.
 
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Looks like some aftermarket decals, I see a tent like mine too. Nice boat, always wanted one like that. Always wondered why and how people "beat up" their outboards. I get some here that seems they got dragged a mile down a dirt road on a chain.
The plastic covers can be painted too, but I have an additive for the paint that helps it adhere. So I paint base with additive first, then apply new decals, then apply epoxy clear. Nason makes a nice clear at 60 bucks a gallon. It will outlast many factory clears. Spray it right outside at temps as low as 40F. Tacks up fast, smooth, beautiful. I often spray into dark with just a small light. Don't like to breath the stuff, outside is best......still use a good mask, however. I sell these motors, often times for more than their original price new. I give ALL my buyers a 1 year warranty. Only got stung once. If there is a return, I can usually tell if the cause was neglect or abuse.
 
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timguy said:
Looks like some aftermarket decals, I see a tent like mine too. Nice boat, always wanted one like that. Always wondered why and how people "beat up" their outboards. I get some here that seems they got dragged a mile down a dirt road on a chain.
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Yep, I refinished the Johnson covers with after market decals (the ones that resemble the originals are sold for small fortune, if you can even find them).
I have 20 feet of car port on the side of the house, a must with the Florida sun, which allows me to keep the inflatable in the shade so the PVC lasts longer than 5 years, and work on these puppies without getting cooked.

Only PIA with those canopies is to take them down when / if we have a hurricane, or tropical storm warning.... thankfully it's not too often. :)

The boat is great for my diving trips or just to put around, and these motors make it fly on the water! (it's a 9'6" rated for 10hp max)
The Evinrude that's got the foot removed (I was in the process to transform it from a long shaft to a shortie then) is actually a 15hp, and I can't really go full throttle on this boat, which is partly why I bought a longer one, which arrived this morning in two boxes... a 12'5". More room for my gear and better stability / power handling will be welcome! Cheers!
 
You guys are great. Thanks for sharing your info and fun. I was looking at rattle can paint for my outboard. If I do another one I'll look into getting the paint from an auto body dealer
 
People in your neck of the woods are willing to pay more for a restored motor than out here in Oregon. There's one on craigslist for $600 and the guy can't get any bites.
 
Hi, what town are you I'll check it out? For prep use scotch brite and clean with gas or enamel reducer, dry with compressed air. Get oil and grease off first. If paint needs feathering on scratches, I do by hand with first 180 grit......wet sand is best, then finish with maybe 240 to 320. Use a good primer on feathered areas to help fill, then depending on how bad it was I may prime the whole thing. Rattle can primer is okay but make sure its enamel primer and not a laquer. Laquer will cause sandscratch swelling of your old original paint and it will likely mess up the quality of your top coat.
 
I'm in Hillsboro, which is west of Portland. There's a'58 Johnson 7.5 that's in good shape for $95 on portland craigslist. If I didn't already have 3 outboard s in my garage I'd buy it. I found an auto body supply near here that I'm going to talk to tomorrow. I might venture outside my box and follow your advice on painting.
 
Been through there in 1979, moved my sister and family to Portland then. They bailed out after St.Helen's. Moved back east. What a mess. Love the Fleetwins, they are super fishing motors. Got a mint one at an auction, for 50 bucks, but there is a rod out.
 
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