Logo
FULL SITE MENU

Evinrude Angler 5 HP questions

S

shero144

Member
Just got a 1965 model 5502 serial 5502S-E05948 and have many questions about servicing the old girl. I bought it from the original owner who took religious care of his toys. The tag on the motor says it was winterized in 2000. It is a fresh water motor and under the cover it looks brand new.

Is there a better choice of plug than the Champion J4J?
Is it OK to use premium gas? I can only get Non-Eth in Premium.
What is the best 2 stroke oil to use?
Manual recommends 50-1 mix but others say to richen it up to 40-1 because of the type of bearings used.
Engine oil specified is 30W ML-MM or MM. Is there a better modern choice? Is detergent oil a consideration?
Gearcase oil specified is TYPE "C".... Is there a modern equivalent?
What is Lube TYPE "A"?
Anything tricky about changing the impeller..... Any gaskets, etc needed?
What else should I look for?

THANKS FOR ANY HELP.
 
J4J is a wonderful plug for that motor.---Pull the flywheel and inspect coils , it will likely have 2 cracked ones or 2 new ones already.----50:1 is just fine for " fishing use " use a TCW 3 rated oil.---------Use outboard gear oil , type C is now only specified for electric shift motors.------Four screws pulls the lower unit off to change the impeller , no gaskets needed at all.
 
Type A was a white water resistant grease (now obsolete). Today's Anti Corrosion Lube is light years better. Do not use car oil. TC-W3 again, is light years better. 50:1 is just fine. Premium unleaded won't hurt it but won't be any advantage either. We could argue all day about Ethanol and nobody would win.
 
Thanks for all the good info:
Now waiting for delivery of a Seloc svc manual(before I touch motor).
Motor currently has J6C plugs.... was given spare J4C plugs by previous owner.
Will check coils/points/condenser.
Will use TCW3 @ 50:1 with Premium Non-eth gas.
Will use Type C gear oil for now(old bottle but smells fresh), then switch to Honda 80/90W.
Will change impeller.
Will check driveshaft seals.
Will use OMC triple lube.
Will check fuel lines.
..............
Can fuel pump be dismantled for inspection without replacing gaskets, etc?
.......
As long as it is available I will always use non-eth fuel. I have a long list of rotten fuel lines and waterblack specs in carb bowls on various equipment from using eth fuel.
........
Thanks again for all the help.
Bill
 
Those fuel pumps are very simple and very reliable.-------Yes it can be taken apart for inspection and I would recommend a new diaphragm ( available from BRP ) for resistance to the fuel today.----Some small parts in there so work carefully .---------Mark the pump parts before disassembly as it is easy to assemble it the wrong way and then it may not work properly.
 
kimcrwbr1 said:
"We could argue all day about Ethanol and nobody would win"
I disagree with this statement the ethanol will win in destroying your motor if ignored. Add seafoam to the tank regularly, change the fuel lines every other year and run the engine out of fuel after each use. Ethanol will clog up the high speed jet and cause the engine to run lean. Running too lean means low on oil and can be fatal to the engine.
Click to expand...
See what I mean? My personal 30 years old motor has run on nothing but whatever is available at the corner gas station, sits for months at a time, has never seen Sea Foam, and outside of a tank hose assy still has original fuel lines. Carburetor has never been apart, high speed jet is not clogged and it runs perfect at all speeds. However, I do run it out of gas before putting it away (motor, that is. Gas stays in tank for months with no ill effect, yes vented). Same thing goes for my chainsaw, weedeater, leaf blower, edger, chipper/shredder, except none of those ever gets run dry. So, there ya go, the argument goes on. I must be sick, I usually don't get into it though.
 
Back
Top