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Evinrude 60 shifter adjustment

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pmatejcek

New member
I don't have all the information you'd like, but I'll bet someone can answer my question anyway.

I have a 60 horse Evinrude, more than 10 years old, less than 20. It has a tiller, and the starter button has a mechanical interlock that prevents starting the motor unless the shifter is in the neutral position.

Last year I had the water pump replaced by a 'pro' -- a local ship in SE Wisconsin. (Turns out that there was nothing wrong with the pump. The motor 'thought' that it was overheating because of a chafed wire. A terrific shop (Reimer's Marine in Cass Lake MN) later found the problem.) When I got the boat back after the water pump replacement, the shifter linkage was out of adjustment. With the transmission in neutral, I couldn't really activate the starter button. I had to move it off the detent a little bit to start it.

I assumed that this was a trivial linkage adjustment that the shop had overlooked. I'm getting ready for another week of fishing, and wanted to adjust the linkage. The shifter handle is attached to a horizontal rod that goes into the engine housing. There is a clevis on the end of that fore-and-aft horizontal rod that attaches to a transverse rod. When I pulled the cover off the motor, I could see that the clevis was screwed as far as it would go onto the actuator rod. I adjusted the clevis so that the starter button could be actuated normally. When I tested the engine, I started it, and shifted into forward. When I shifted back to neutral, I briefly ground the gears in reverse. That made me think that the detent was misadjusted, and that when I shifted into neutral, I wasn't 'centered' between neutral, but rather too close to reverse. I adjusted the position of the detent spring plate. That moved the shifter handle forward still more. Although I have not actually put it into the water yet, everything seems just fine: the started buttons works properly, and the neutral detent seems centered between forward and reverse.

Here's my concern: I'm not sure that they would have fooled with either of these adjustments. And, if they had, I'm thinking that they would have adjusted them properly. Altogether, that makes me think that when they changed the water pump, they never adjusted, or they improperly adjusted, the long vertical shift shaft that comes out of the lower unit. It seems that I have adequately compensated for their mistake. But I'm wondering whether there's any risk in what I've done. I *really* don't want to drop the lower unit to adjust the shaft. But is there any risk if I don't? I think that probably everything that I've done is just fine, and that I should just go catch a lot of fish. But I don't know a lot about these engines, and I'd like to know if you think I've done anything wrong, taken any risk, introduced any potential problem.

Thanks in advance for any advice,

Paul in East Troy WI
 
There are many 60hp models on the market.... the linkages vary, some of which one does not want to tinker with!

What is the model number of your 60hp?
 
joereeves said:
There are many 60hp models on the market.... the linkages vary, some of which one does not want to tinker with!

What is the model number of your 60hp?
Click to expand...

Thanks for the prompt response, Joe. When I said, "I don't have all the information you'd like," that's what I was referring to: I don't have the model or serial numbers at hand -- and I won't until this evening (at which time I'll post them, if there's still a need!). I was thinking that there's probably some greybeard here who knows exactly what I'm describing, and who has a solid off-the-cuff answer that will relieve my anxiety... A guy's got to get lucky ONCE in a while!

Thanks again,

Paul
 
pmatejcek said:
Thanks for the prompt response, Joe. When I said, "I don't have all the information you'd like," that's what I was referring to: I don't have the model or serial numbers at hand -- and I won't until this evening (at which time I'll post them, if there's still a need!). I was thinking that there's probably some greybeard here who knows exactly what I'm describing, and who has a solid off-the-cuff answer that will relieve my anxiety... A guy's got to get lucky ONCE in a while!Thanks again, Paul
Click to expand...

Paul... And having started in this line of work back in 1960, I think I'm qualified to fill that bill. A 20 year stretch of engines in the 60hp range is just too much. You need a definite accurate reply in order to avoid expensive tinkering. When you get that model number, let us know.
 
There might be a difference between a factory tiller installed " commercial model " or one with a tiller installed later.------------Post pictures or model # to get the right info on shift rod height adjustment !!
 
The motor is an R60TTLERV, s/n G 03564346.

Racerone, I have the FSM, so I know the "right info on shift rod height adjustment." But I'm thinking that I'd have to drop the lower unit to do that -- and that ain't gonna happen between now and next Thursday, when I leave for a week of fishing. I don't want to adjust the rod height -- I want to compensate for the error with the rest of the linkage.

FWIW, I put the boat in the water this evening for a shakedown cruise. Except for a broken livewell fitting, that pumps more water into the hull than the livewell, everything seems fine. Runs great, shifts perfectly.

Paul in East Troy
 
pmatejcek said:
The motor is an R60TTLERV, s/n G 03564346.I don't want to adjust the rod height -- I want to compensate for the error with the rest of the linkage.
Click to expand...

1994 60hp Evinrude. That "R" in front of the model number.... a typo, should have been a "E" ?

Paul... Unfortunately, if the mechanic has misadjusted the shift rod height, it will be impossible to compensate for it.
 
I'm once again not in a position to re-check the model number, but I see that 'E' and 'R' are neighbors on my keyboard. 1994 sounds about right -- though I can scarcely believe I've had this boat nearly 20 years! Take the cover off the motor and it looks brand new inside.

Regarding the adjustment: It seems to be working just fine, with the changes I made to the clevis and the detent. Shifts just fine, and neutral is well-centered between forward and reverse. With those two adjustments available, why would it be impossible to compensate for a misadjusted shift rod height?

Paul in East Troy
 
pmatejcek said:
Regarding the adjustment: It seems to be working just fine, with the changes I made to the clevis and the detent. Shifts just fine, and neutral is well-centered between forward and reverse. With those two adjustments available, why would it be impossible to compensate for a misadjusted shift rod height?Paul in East Troy
Click to expand...

Paul.... No sense in getting involved in a debate about that. Just take our word that the measurement is critical. However, if what you've done works for you, fine.... if you encounter a problem later on, you'll know what caused it.
 
OK, there are a couple of issues open:

- the model number does indeed start with an 'E'. The motor is an E60TTLERV. I purchased it new in 1995 (I can tell the date because I found the receipt for the Factory Service Manual) .

- Joe, you said, "No sense in getting involved in a debate about that. Just take our word that the measurement is critical." I wasn't debating, I was asking a question, trying to understand. In the best of all worlds, I would drop the lower unit, check/adjust the rod height, reassemble, and then readjust the linkage and detent. But that simply can't happen in the time available. I wish that I understood what risk I'm taking. I hear that the rod height is critical; I don't understand why. The gearcase has been operating flawlessly with the rod where it is. I have been able to adjust the rest of the linkage such that the shift handle (and starter interlock) operates properly. All seems well. I'm not saying that you're wrong, I'm saying that I don't get it. And I hate to not understand things... I understand that you may not have the time or inclination to post a really comprehensive response; I appreciate what you've entered so far.

- Boobie, 'graybeard' is a term that refers to a highly experienced person, somebody who has been 'at it' for a long time. 'Graybeard' is a term of respect for an old-timer, someone who has seen it all. When things get ugly, you seek the counsel of a graybeard. At 63, I myself am a literal graybeard, and also a figurative graybeard in several fields. But I have very little practical experience of outboard motor maintenance -- that's why I'm here.

Thanks,

Paul
 
On here often times folks scoff at the free advice and top notch information offered by many " gray beards "-----------Does not make sense at all !!
 
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