Evinrude 2hp not running

[Seathy]

Hello,
An early 80's era? 2hp that has not been run for a good few years, starts momentarily only on full throttle, dies on any throttling off. Checked point gap, spark is good IMO, removed and flushed carb through with petrol in pressure jetter. The coil has heavy cracking on the case, I temporarily put layers upon layers of heavy tape over coil, this made no difference to the starting issue. (please see photo). Forgive my ignorance but do these have an ignition advance mechanism?

Thanks for any advice Duncan

 

[kimcrwbr1]

How are you adjusting the needles on the carb? If the coil is cracked it needs replaced it will fail. Turn the slow needle out 1 1/2 turns from lightly seated and the fast needle out 3/4 turn. The throttle lever is the timing advance and the cam on the plate opens the throttle butterfly on the carb. There is a mark on the cam to adjust engine sync the throttle butterfly should just begin to open as the mark on the cam passes center of the roller. Without a good spark you will never be able to adjust the carb and point gap is the timing for the engine. The best way to adjust the points is with a timing light. There are two marks on the outer edge of the points plate and a single mark on the flywheel. connect the timing light to any 12v battery and clip the light on the plug wire. You want the single mark on the flywheel to be inbetween the two marks on the plate. Make sure engine sync is correct then you can adjust the carb. slowly turn the slow needle in 1/8 turn at a time and wait ten seconds. you will know when it is correct there is little room for error you will find the best idle adjustment. then the best way to adjust the fast needle is at WOT on the water.

 

[joereeves]

Replace that coil... there is no alternative!

(Magneto & Driver Coil Alignment)
(J. Reeves)

To align the coils properly, have the metal vertical portion of the coil yokes aligned with the inside edge of the bevel that exists on the top portion of the aluminum seat upon which the coils sit. This creates the proper distance between the coils and the flywheel magnets. Faulty alignment creates friction and the yokes of the coils heat up, turn blue and expand.
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Sitting for that length of time, the carburetor is no doubt fouled. Remove, clean, and rebuild it. Then adjust it as follows:

(Carburetor Adjustments - Two Adjustable N/Vs)
(J. Reeves)

Initial settings are: Bottom high speed = seat gently, then open 1 turn out. Top slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Setting the high and low needle valves properly:

NOTE: For engines that DO NOT have a shift selection, obviously there is no NEUTRAL position. Simply lower the rpms to the lowest setting to obtain the low speed needle valve adjustment.

(High Speed) Start engine (it will run pretty rough), shift into forward gear, take up to full throttle. In segments of 1/8 turn, waiting for the engine to respond between turns, start turning in the bottom high speed needle valve. You'll reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the needle valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest setting.

(Low Speed) Slow the engine down to where it just stays running. Shift into neutral. Again in segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the top needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running. Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back. Again, at that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustments, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.