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Evinrude 1975 6hp Idle issue

T

Tipster1947

New member
My long shaft sailboat auxiliary, Model 8505 R, starts fairly easily, but doesn't like to idle steadily. Fuel is fresh, plugs are new and clean and gapped to 0.030. Fuel line from pump to carb. replaced. I've run in barrel at moderate speed, in gear, for about an hour to see how it works, and it's OK, At lower speeds, it putters along and then just stops. I've removed, inspected and cleaned low idle screw and adjusted it from lean to rich without success. I need it to be reliable at low speeds for docking maneuvers.

Only thing left is to rebuild carburetor, or is this just the nature of these motors? Any other tricks?

Thanks.
 
Sorry to say, I am not skilled in this. I have a vague memory of how to set timing in cars from over forty years ago. I did notice an inscription on top of recoil starter mechanism saying point gap should be .020.

Can you refer me to a source for education? (Most of what I know has come from forums like this and YouTube.).
 
Remove the flywheel using a puller and the 3 threaded holes on top of the flywheel.---Threads are 1/4-NC in there.----Inspect for cracked / burned through coils.
 
You can get one at an auto parts store for 10-15 bucks.Pick up some 1/4-20 by 3.5" grade eights an washers too. I tighten a ratchet strap around the flywheel to keep it from spinning.
 
First attempt to pull flywheel failed. I didn't have strap wrench long enough to hold flywheel, so I couldn't even remove retaining nut. Also didn't have long breaker bar with me.
q1. Is it ok to fix prop with a block or something to stabilize flywheel while trying to unscrrew nut?

q2 See picture. Holes on top don't look like either 180 degrees or 120 degrees apart. Are there more under large washer?
 

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The holes you will be using are under the shiny cover held on by the flywheel nut. Put a ratchet strap around the flywheel and push against it while loosening the nut.You can always sleeve your wrench with a piece of pipe or something.
 
Thanks bspeth,
What about my other question? Can I put motor in gear and block prop somehow to stabilize crankshaft while I remove flywheel nut, or will that put too much strain on things?:confused:
 
I use my little electric impact wrench to remove those nuts. Takes only a few seconds. If you happen to have one its a simple task. You will still need some way to hold the flywheel to torque it back down but getting it off is a breeze if you happen to have or can borrow an impact drill.
 
I have removed a flywheel nut and torqued it when done by removing a spark plug, turn the flywheel til the piston is at or near bottom, fill the cylinder with a piece of rope through e plughole. Turn the nut. The piston and crank will b stopped by the rope and the nut can be taken off.
 
Thanks for suggestions. After watching a few you tube videos, I realized I could make a really long arm strap wrench with a rope in the rope starter groove and a 2 x 2 stick. Add a nice long socket breaker bar and nut yielded. Before going further I also learned to confirm a solid 1/4" spark. I went back to plan A, pulled and carefully cleaned the carb, cleaned and re-gapped the plugs just a hair over 0.030. Now engine runs beautifully.
Done till fall.
 
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