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evinrude 1970 60 hp eletric shift no reverce?

M

mirt40

Member
Hello!
My eletric controll when i press the forward buttom i have neutral.
Netral and reverce is forward.
What did i wire wrong?
I dont have a orignial harness and i made my own.
how is the function for the eletric?
have i put the power wire for forward wrong?
 
(Hydro Electric Shift System Explained)
(J. Reeves)

NOTE 1 -The ohm reading of the individual shift solenoids should be between 5 to 6 ohms. The ohm meter should be set to low ohms. The shift wires leading to the solenoids must be disconnected when being tested.

NOTE 2 - The solenoid plunger measurement must be made with the solenoid placed within the lower unit. The measurement must be approximately 1/64" beneath the top surface of the solenoid... NOT above the solenoid surface nor any lower than 1/64" of the solenoid surface. This factory measurement is critical and will not ever change UNLESS someone has tinkered with it.


The shifting setup of the lower unit is what's called a "Hydro Electric Shift", which is quite complex consisting of voltage being applied to solenoids in the lower unit which in turn change oil passages via a oil pump that supplies various pressure on a spring loaded shifter dog. The wires leading to the lower unit (at the powerhead) are "Green" and "Blue". The engine must be running or cranking over in order to shift out of forward gear.

You CAN NOT use HI VIS lube in that lower unit. You MUST USE what OMC calls "Premium Blend" lube, commonly called "Type C". (A thinner lube)

Note: The engine must be running OR have the driveshaft turning by some other means in order for the engine to shift.


In neutral, you need 12v to the "Green" wire.
In reverse, you need 12v to both wires, the "Green" one and the "Blue" one.
In forward, there should be no voltage to either wire. (The spring loaded shifter dog forces the unit into forward gear)


To check the lower unit for proper shifting to make sure you have no trouble there, remove the spark plugs to avoid problems and to allow a higher cranking speed.


This next step eliminates the actual shift switch in case problems may exist there.... Disconnect the blue & green wires at the knife connectors (the rubber insulated boots) leading to the lower unit at the powerhead, then using jumpers, take voltage direct from the starter solenoid to apply voltage to the "Green" wire for neutral, then both wires 'Green" & "Blue" for reverse (Remember the engine must be cranking over in order to shift).

With no voltage applied, the unit should be in forward. No need for a ground jumper... the lower unit's already grounded. You may crank the engine with the key switch or by energizing the starter solenoid with a jumper wire.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
 
joereeves said:
(Hydro Electric Shift System Explained)
(J. Reeves)

NOTE 1 -The ohm reading of the individual shift solenoids should be between 5 to 6 ohms. The ohm meter should be set to low ohms. The shift wires leading to the solenoids must be disconnected when being tested.

NOTE 2 - The solenoid plunger measurement must be made with the solenoid placed within the lower unit. The measurement must be approximately 1/64" beneath the top surface of the solenoid... NOT above the solenoid surface nor any lower than 1/64" of the solenoid surface. This factory measurement is critical and will not ever change UNLESS someone has tinkered with it.


The shifting setup of the lower unit is what's called a "Hydro Electric Shift", which is quite complex consisting of voltage being applied to solenoids in the lower unit which in turn change oil passages via a oil pump that supplies various pressure on a spring loaded shifter dog. The wires leading to the lower unit (at the powerhead) are "Green" and "Blue". The engine must be running or cranking over in order to shift out of forward gear.

You CAN NOT use HI VIS lube in that lower unit. You MUST USE what OMC calls "Premium Blend" lube, commonly called "Type C". (A thinner lube)

Note: The engine must be running OR have the driveshaft turning by some other means in order for the engine to shift.


In neutral, you need 12v to the "Green" wire.
In reverse, you need 12v to both wires, the "Green" one and the "Blue" one.
In forward, there should be no voltage to either wire. (The spring loaded shifter dog forces the unit into forward gear)


To check the lower unit for proper shifting to make sure you have no trouble there, remove the spark plugs to avoid problems and to allow a higher cranking speed.


This next step eliminates the actual shift switch in case problems may exist there.... Disconnect the blue & green wires at the knife connectors (the rubber insulated boots) leading to the lower unit at the powerhead, then using jumpers, take voltage direct from the starter solenoid to apply voltage to the "Green" wire for neutral, then both wires 'Green" & "Blue" for reverse (Remember the engine must be cranking over in order to shift).

With no voltage applied, the unit should be in forward. No need for a ground jumper... the lower unit's already grounded. You may crank the engine with the key switch or by energizing the starter solenoid with a jumper wire.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
Click to expand...

I have contact voltade at the red wire. What is wrong then? Where should each wire go on the swift control also?
 
Last edited:
Back starting 1962, there was a push button Straight Electric Shift using two Electromagnetic Coils.
Forward button = 12v voltage to forward coil. (Green wire)
Neutral button = No voltage to either coil.
Reverse button = 12v to reverse coil. (Blue wire)

***************************
Starting in 1969 through 1972, there was a push button Hydro Electric Shift using two Solenoids.
Forward button = No voltage to either solenoid.
Neutral button = 12v to just one solenoid (green wire).
Reverse button = 12v to both solenoids.
***************************

The shift button assemblies are wired differently internally and do not interchange.
***************************

(Toggle Shift Switch Setup For The Hydro Electric Shift Unit)
(J. Reeves)

NOTE (Disclaimer) - The following toggle setup will suffice BUT it is extremely dangerous. Should you use it, you are agreeing to use it at your own risk with myself disavowing any responsibility for its design or use.

Due to the unavailability of the "Push Button" (Evinrude) or "Toggle Type" (Johnson) shift switch that is required for the "Hydro Electric Shift" type lower units that existed between 1968 and 1972, many boaters have asked how they could rig up a toggle switch to perform this shifting function. There may be much better solutions but the following is what I and another member have come up with.

One must keep in mind that wiring a toggle switch in such a manner allows one to accidently shift from forward to reverse at full throttle. This could and probably has resulted in injuries to boaters, not to mention the mechanical damage. Should this or any other problems arise/occur, I, nor any other member are in no way to be held responsible for the toggle switch to shift switch replacement mentioned here.


For the above reason, I strongly suggest that the toggle switch have a hinged hard case cover installed over it so that the toggle can never be thrown/toggled accidentally.


Now, with a Single Pole Double Throw toggle switch installed so the "Green" wire connection is facing up or away from you, make the following connections to the terminals on the back of the toggle switch. A diagram exists at the bottom of this explanation.


......O <--- Green Wire


......O <--- 12 volt Supply


......O <--- Blue Wire


Now, between the Green wire and Blue wire terminal on the toggle switch, connect a diode capable of handling 12 volts (available at Radio Shack etc). Be sure to install the diode so that the voltage will travel from the Blue wire connection to the Green wire connection only...... and not vice versa!


Now, if you have installed the switch as above, with the toggle pulled all the way back (towards yourself), contact will be made between the 12v supply and the Green connection. This puts the unit in Neutral. The diode prevents any voltage from gaining access to the Blue connection.


Pushing the toggle lever to the middle position results in no voltage being supplied to either wire. This results in the spring loaded clutch shifter dog in the lower unit throwing the unit into forward gear.


Pushing the toggle switch lever all the way to the front position will have the center 12 volt supply connected to the Blue wire connection, and due to the diode, that 12 volt supply will also be supplied to the Green wire. This results in having the unit in reverse gear.

The Double Pole Double Throw toggle designed by another member is a easier setup to wire (diagram below). It simply depends on what type toggle switch you have.

HydroShiftSwitch-a_zpsa964c2e4.jpg


Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
********************
 
joereeves said:
Back starting 1962, there was a push button Straight Electric Shift using two Electromagnetic Coils.
Forward button = 12v voltage to forward coil. (Green wire)
Neutral button = No voltage to either coil.
Reverse button = 12v to reverse coil. (Blue wire)

***************************
Starting in 1969 through 1972, there was a push button Hydro Electric Shift using two Solenoids.
Forward button = No voltage to either solenoid.
Neutral button = 12v to just one solenoid (green wire).
Reverse button = 12v to both solenoids.
***************************

The shift button assemblies are wired differently internally and do not interchange.
***************************

(Toggle Shift Switch Setup For The Hydro Electric Shift Unit)
(J. Reeves)

NOTE (Disclaimer) - The following toggle setup will suffice BUT it is extremely dangerous. Should you use it, you are agreeing to use it at your own risk with myself disavowing any responsibility for its design or use.

Due to the unavailability of the "Push Button" (Evinrude) or "Toggle Type" (Johnson) shift switch that is required for the "Hydro Electric Shift" type lower units that existed between 1968 and 1972, many boaters have asked how they could rig up a toggle switch to perform this shifting function. There may be much better solutions but the following is what I and another member have come up with.

One must keep in mind that wiring a toggle switch in such a manner allows one to accidently shift from forward to reverse at full throttle. This could and probably has resulted in injuries to boaters, not to mention the mechanical damage. Should this or any other problems arise/occur, I, nor any other member are in no way to be held responsible for the toggle switch to shift switch replacement mentioned here.


For the above reason, I strongly suggest that the toggle switch have a hinged hard case cover installed over it so that the toggle can never be thrown/toggled accidentally.


Now, with a Single Pole Double Throw toggle switch installed so the "Green" wire connection is facing up or away from you, make the following connections to the terminals on the back of the toggle switch. A diagram exists at the bottom of this explanation.


......O <--- Green Wire


......O <--- 12 volt Supply


......O <--- Blue Wire


Now, between the Green wire and Blue wire terminal on the toggle switch, connect a diode capable of handling 12 volts (available at Radio Shack etc). Be sure to install the diode so that the voltage will travel from the Blue wire connection to the Green wire connection only...... and not vice versa!


Now, if you have installed the switch as above, with the toggle pulled all the way back (towards yourself), contact will be made between the 12v supply and the Green connection. This puts the unit in Neutral. The diode prevents any voltage from gaining access to the Blue connection.


Pushing the toggle lever to the middle position results in no voltage being supplied to either wire. This results in the spring loaded clutch shifter dog in the lower unit throwing the unit into forward gear.


Pushing the toggle switch lever all the way to the front position will have the center 12 volt supply connected to the Blue wire connection, and due to the diode, that 12 volt supply will also be supplied to the Green wire. This results in having the unit in reverse gear.

The Double Pole Double Throw toggle designed by another member is a easier setup to wire (diagram below). It simply depends on what type toggle switch you have.

HydroShiftSwitch-a_zpsa964c2e4.jpg


Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
********************
Click to expand...
Thanks!
Well my [h=2]SELECTOR SWITCH ASSEMBLY is broken it dosent give the corrent current. Do you have a spare? and how much and can you send it to sweden?[/h]
 
The push button switch is no longer available. Your only option seems to be that you think about the toggle switch setup.
 
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