Logo

Evinrude 15 cuts out after warming up

Weasel tooth

New member
I have a 15 hp evinrude that I believe is post 93 that is giving me fits!! when the engine is cold, it will run full out with good power but once she warms up it will bog out at WOT.

After warming up good, it will idle and start and do lower rpm just fine but it just chugs if you try to give it more than about half throttle, now when I say chug, I don't mean it tries to die, it just stops accelerating past about half or so and I can hear a difference in engine sound if I rotate the throttle past where it stops doing any good.

I am at a total loss here, have had this motor for years and it always ran like a top, still always starts great just wont make good power after it warms up.

I have replaced the coil, plugs, fuel line, and tank, and you could eat cheerios out of the carb it is so clean, just stumped. Compression is 90psi on both cylinders.

The plugs don't look super wet and greasy like it is flooding from bad float seat and the bowl seems to stay full even when its running bad so I don't think its the fuel pump not keeping up, I put an in-line spark light on it today and couldn't tell any difference in spark from -cold start running good- to -warmed up no WOT.

If I try to choke it a little when it stops making power at wot it kills it really fast,
and my experience (which isn't a whole lot) with cdi boxes is that they either work or they don't.

I read a post where someone had similar problems and someone suggested that it was overheating and starting to seize but do not think that is the problem as I can hold my hand on the water jacket after running it for a while, and it is "peeing" good. That being said, I have never changed the impeller in the eight or ten years I have had it and it is likely due but don't think that's it.

Am I missing something obvious? Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated, I don't want to start throwing parts at it and hoping but that is about where I am at this point,
Lets just say if I had hair I would be pulling it out!
 
Take the fuel pump apart for inspection.-----------Inspect inside your fuel tank, the pick-up tube.---Waterpump [mpellers do not last 10 years and you may have an overheat condition.The motor then will not run flat out !!
 
There is no plate with model # on the side of the mounting bracket like there is supposed to be so not exactly sure of model or year, but its a 2 stroke fresh water engine, tiller steer, electric and rope start, standard shaft length. And from looking at carburetor diagrams would say has to be a 94 or later.

I can hold my hand on the head after running for a while and its hot but not burn me hot, honestly the spark plugs are hotter than the head. I have never flushed it other than to run it in clear water for a bit when i am done using it.

Is there a t-stat? Didn't know it had one, I will drop the lower unit this afternoon and check the impeller, going to order one along with fuel pump kit and carb kit.

I havent run it for probably three years when it started acting up I took it to a local shade tree boat shop and he "cleaned the carb" and changed the plugs and said it ran great, I got it to the water and same thing so I parked it.

just replaced the tank and hose, both are brand new a week ago.
 
DSCN0418.JPGSo also just want to say my experience with boat motors is about pretty much none. I have tinkered with lots of engines but not many outboards. Going to go get the impeller out and see what that looks like, or maybe play with the light twin....
 
Here is a pic of the impeller, it is a little stiff but was still firmly stuck in the housing, that is it certainly wasn't in any danger of falling out, when I bent the fin over backwards to take a pic it showed only a very minor stress crack, of course now I am going to have to order the water pump kit and wait till it shows up to put back together, probably get fuel pump and carb kits too.DSCN0419.jpg
 
When the vanes are bent like that the pump is past it's useful life.----You will see that a new impeller has straight vanes and vanes must flex and bend in order for the pump to work properly.
 
There was a lot of crud up in the exhaust area, I have had trimmers and blowers etc that ran poorly under load with semi plugged exhaust ports but never run good when cold and bog down after warming up. Still maybe I will give her the sea foam treatment after I get it back together.
 
I have had intermittent power pack failures that caused the engine to bog down. Check to make sure that the bolts on the power pack are secure and clean. That is the electrical path to ground. Also check to make sure that the fuel pump is tightened securely and that the gasket is in place.
 
Last edited:
I put an in line spark indicator light on it and ran it in the evening so I could see the light good, and I couldn't tell any difference in spark before or after it warmed up on either cylinder, or between the two. Was pretty much on after about half throttle.
 
Spark is good then time to pursue the fuel further. Is there black oily liquid coming out of the lower unit relief holes when you put it down? Your fuel pump and carb kits should solve the issue anyway.
 
There wasn't any oily stuff on the outside of the lower unit or anywhere but after sitting a day or two with the lower unit off there were a couple drops on the floor, un-burnt oil or some gas that puked out of the carb maybe.

Got my parts today, going to do water pump tonight and run it tomorrow and see.

If that doesn't do it I will do the fuel pump and check again. If it still cuts out I will do the carb rebuild. If that doesn't do it ......

Will keep u posted on results.
 
Well tested with the new water pump and thermostat and still doing same thing so guess I will try rebuilding the fuel pump next and see what happens.
 
Back
Top