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evinrude 140 problems

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problemchild

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Hello. The wife and I recently decided to try having a boat. The engine supposedly ran great last year (they always do), and when we looked at it to buy it, it did start and run. not very well, IMO, but it did run. It took us a couple days to get it out to the lake to shake it down. Long story short, after three times of trying to launch and start the boat, and a new battery, we finally got the thing started. It will only start full throttle, runs super rough, has no power, and doesn't start very easily. The plug wires were on the plugs well. Ok, so I get the boat home, and pulled the plugs. All 4 were soaked (after probably 45 minutes to an hour at this point), and one is black. I'm guessing the carb is somehow WAY out of adjustment? but why would only the one spark plug be black? How does one tell if a marine spark plug is bad?

the engine is from what I can tell a 1977, it's a 140783s
 
How many times have I said it ?-----On any outboard the trouble shooting starts with a compression test !!!-----And test for spark that will jump a gap of 3/8" or better.----All easy to test and costs you no MONEY.
 
thanks for the suggestion, however, that does cost money, so I guess I'm waiting until wednesday to start working on this. Can you change just the wires without changing the coils? the coils in the boots are awful rusty, which might not be helping?
 
Many people today have compression testers.----Or you borrow / rent one.----Spark is also easy to check.-----Sorry, if you just want to throw parts at it then good luck with the project.
 
I don't just want to throw parts at it. I'm asking if rusted terminals are going to allow enough power to flow for the plugs to do their jobs. I plan on doing a compression and spark test wednesday when I have the money to rent a compression tester. I think I may have figured out why the engine isn't running right. The previous owner told me it wasn't the original engine, but what he didn't tell me was that the choke control on the boat wasn't hooked up to the new engine and the choke on the engine was on. I need to get a set of muffs anyway and then I'll figure all this out when I have some time wednesday.
 
there is a manual choke, as I said. the linkage is actuating, so I can only imagine it is opening/closing. The linkage is missing a hitch pin, so I'm going to have to get one of those. This seems like an auto choke? if that's the case, once I get the hitch pin replaced, I'll have to verify it's working. I did a compression test today, and the results aren't great. 1 is at 105psi, 2 is at 80, 90 with oil sprayed into the cylinder, 3 is at 100, 4 is at 105. I don't have a spark tester, I'll have to see about buying one of those, next. cylinder 2 was the last one tested, but we were always taught anything over 10psi difference was bad in school. thoughts?
 
I would say the motor needs major work.-----You need to remove cylinder heads for inspection.----Could be blown head gaskets.------More than likely it is broken piston rings.----Very , very common on those V-4 crossflow engines.----Or remove the bypass cover on cylinder #2 to look at rings.----Just 6 screws and perhaps a $2.00 gasket.
 
racerone said:
I would say the motor needs major work.-----You need to remove cylinder heads for inspection.----Could be blown head gaskets.------More than likely it is broken piston rings.----Very , very common on those V-4 crossflow engines.----Or remove the bypass cover on cylinder #2 to look at rings.----Just 6 screws and perhaps a $2.00 gasket.
Click to expand...

Ok, so is overall compression low like I think it is, or just cylinder 2? That seems like awful low compression for a 140hp 600cc engine...
 
Your motor is 1600 cc.-----I believe your motor needs major repairs.-----I can not put my hands on your motor.-----Up to you do the inspection !!-----End of my story.
 
Wow, just wow. Here I thought forums exist to help people and give advise/ share experience, and for the most part all I get is short, snippy, even rude comments from experienced forum members. Too bad forums aren't what they used to be.
 
I have rebuilt numerous examples of these V-4 motors.-------They all suffer the same fate of broken piston rings.--------Some folks can not accept that.----Read post #8 and act on that advice.-----Sorry if it sounds harsh to you as a first time owner of your dream boat.
 
I have no problem with the reality of the engine being broken, I have a problem with your attitude. I thought the engine idled like **** at the guys house and figured it wasn't a great engine, but the boat was cheap enough it really didn't matter, as it wouldn't be the first engine I've had apart. Not every boat lives on, or even near a lake, so it's not like you can demand they pull it an hour away to test it. I'm not trying to live in a fantasy world, just one free of jerks that only give half answers.
 
Sorry ----The advice you got , that pointed you in the right direction was all free.----So worth every penny you paid.-----You wanted to jump all over the carburetors in post #1 here.---Let me know when the cylinder heads are off this motor as per post # 8.
 
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