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Engine stalls when put in gear.

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Bigday

New member
I have a Volvo aq260 in my boat. I can crank it up and run it but as soon as I put it in gear it stalls out. I have to gun it for it to catch and then it runs fine. But I have to gun it every time to get it to go. This is my first boat and I need help.
 
There should be nothing causing your engine to stahl when going into gear.

Question:
Once in gear and when you come down from a higher RPM........, does the engine remain running while leaving it IN gear????


As Kim suggested, make sure that the low speed fuel metering is correct.... and perhaps on the "fat" side just a tad.
You can lean it out some after you've resolved this issue.
Also make sure that the carburetor base gasket is not breaching vacuum.

Check your engine's ignition system BASE advance.
You will want to be in the range of 8* to 10* BTDC @ 700 rpm.

While not part of your problem, also look at your Progressive Advance and make sure that it's as per the OEM curve and that it reaches the desired TA @ 3,200 RPM or so.

If you feel as though this engine is NOT producing enough power....... I'll agree.... perform a cylinder pressure test.
Use a thread-in type pressure gauge.
Since these are somewhat accumulative, you want to cycle each cylinder through at least 3 compression strokes.... or at least 7 crankshaft revolutions.


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[Yes, everything runs fine after i gun it to get it started. But once i turn it off, the problem starts again.QUOTE=RicardoMarine;524436]There should be nothing causing your engine to stahl when going into gear.

Question:
Once in gear and when you come down from a higher RPM........, does the engine remain running while leaving it IN gear????


As Kim suggested, make sure that the low speed fuel metering is correct.... and perhaps on the "fat" side just a tad.
You can lean it out some after you've resolved this issue.
Also make sure that the carburetor base gasket is not breaching vacuum.

Check your engine's ignition system BASE advance.
You will want to be in the range of 8* to 10* BTDC @ 700 rpm.

While not part of your problem, also look at your Progressive Advance and make sure that it's as per the OEM curve and that it reaches the desired TA @ 3,200 RPM or so.

If you feel as though this engine is NOT producing enough power....... I'll agree.... perform a cylinder pressure test.
Use a thread-in type pressure gauge.
Since these are somewhat accumulative, you want to cycle each cylinder through at least 3 compression strokes.... or at least 7 crankshaft revolutions.


.[/QUOTE]
 
Bigday said:
Yes, everything runs fine after i gun it to get it started. But once i turn it off, the problem starts again.
Click to expand...

Let me see if I have understood you:

Whether your engine is warm or cold, once in gear and when remaining in gear, idle speed can be achieved without stahling......... correct?

Is it when returning to neutral and then attempting a shift back into gear when the problem occurs???
Or.... is it when shutting down, re-starting and then attempting to go into gear when the problem occurs???
More so with cold engine.... or is this occuring with either???



Is the engine healthy..... good cylinder pressures, etc???
Was this engine built using the correct Marine profile camshaft???
Is the ignition system working properly.... correct BASE advance, etc???
Have you used a vacuum gauge to adjust the low speed fuel metering???
Have you checked for any vacuum breach at/near the carburetor base gasket???
What idle speed are you seeing???


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Last edited:
kimcrwbr1 said:
Sounds like a idle air mixture to me do you know when the carb was rebuilt last? Do you let it warm up first? Does the choke close when the engine is cold? You can try adding 1/4 turn rich on the idle air needles and see if it improves. Ricardo will know better on how to approach the issue do you know the history of the motor. Tune up, oil change, plug wires, carb rebuild, drive oil change, lube points? The first step is to allways do a compression test with a fully charged battery engine cold then get back with the results!
Click to expand...
The carb was just rebuilt, I was just about to take it off and noticed my choke was not connected, could that be the problem?
 
Bigday said:
The carb was just rebuilt, I was just about to take it off and noticed my choke was not connected, could that be the problem?
Click to expand...

Choke not connected... as in the helix heating element was not being powered????

If the heating element is not powered, the cold helix will cause the choke plate linkage to remain in the closed position.... meaning that the engine will still see choke enrichment after warm up.

Before you can go any further, you'll want to correct this, verify ignition advance, and perhaps use a vacuum gauge to adjust the low speed fuel metering.


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