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Engine stall into forward

M

Mouse

Member
Im back again, i still havnt armed myself with a manual but forgive me for that as ive learned more terminology.

Alright, ive read up on common problems for engine cut off when selecting gear, main suspects being shift cable and shift interupter switch.
Something is going on here with the interupter switch not disengadging shifting into forward but i want to give a little bit of back story just in case the switch is preventing damage.

I removed the leg to rebuild the water pump and being an amature it could not have been put back on properly, i was adviced that "if i got the gears wrong that could cause it to cut off"
Also the first time i pulled the control box lever into reverse after putting the leg back on it was a bit stiff but gave way and has been smooth since(engine off)

What i do know though is reverse engadges fine and back to neutral fine but when i go into forward the switch will push on and not come back to neutral (with the engine running or not). When i pull back to neutral the switch will disendgage again so it seems its in unison with the control box.. im imagining this sounds like a binded shift cable.. but i also know that it use to work when i bought it; only things i have done to the boat since is
- flushed coolant
-removed and replaced leg
And sprayed the engine with 'linolin linox' cant remember the name.

Sorry if this was a mouthfull to read just trying to give all the information i can, i can be shorter in the future..?

I have a probly rookie question too;
If the 'gears are wrong' can i fix this with the adjusting procedure of the shift cable ? Dont really wanna drain fresh fluid.

Thanks for your time, a penny for your thoughts

Mercrusier 3.0l alpha one gen I. 86 93 ish..
 
You will have to start by verifying you installed the lower unit correctly. That will require removal of the whole drive.
When removed the shift shoe should point in a straight line with the prop locked CCW. Start there first.
Then with the control box in fwd, the upper shoe must be in a straight line also. If not, adjust the cable to achieve this,.

13_zps2309c919.jpg

http://vid57.photobucket.com/albums/g219/BtDoctur/DSCN2491_zpsea1cc235.mp4
 
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here is the shift cable adjustment procedure if needed

Trim out drive up 2 inches from all the way down.
Take keys out of ignition!!!!!!!!!!!
Have a second person stand at the prop.
You, remove the short shift cable from the shift bracket.
After the cable has been removed, push the plastic cable end all the way in and hold in place while prop is being spun C’Clockwise..
Have second person rotate prop counter clock wise until the prop is fully engaged and wont turn anymore. Maintain light effort on shift cable plastic end pushing it to keep forward engaged.

Measure the distance from the center of the brass trunion to the center of the round mounting hole in the plastic end. Adjust trunion to make that distance 6 inches. no more no less! In cases where the shift cable is old but still works well you can adjust this dimension to 5 15/16”. NO MORE.

Put shift control handle in forward FULL throttle position.
Remove the control shift cable from shift bracket at this time.

Install short shift cable back onto shift bracket at this time.

Take the control shift control cable and adjust the trunion so it fits perfectly back into the shift bracket.
Before installing it turn the brass trunion 4 complete turns away from the plastic end and reinstall into shift bracket.

Now put shift control handle in the neutral position.
Have second person spin prop, it should spin freely.
Put shift control into the forward detent position at ~ 10:00 position. NO FUTHER.
Have the second person rotate the prop counter clockwise. You should have solid engagement with no ability to continue to turn the prop.

Now shift back into neutral. Prop should spin freely with no clacking or clunking.

Now shift to reverse to the 2:00 o’clock position detent NO FURTHER!!

Have the second person spin the prop clockwise.

If you have positive engagement with no clunking or jumping out of engagement, you are done.

If it does not fully engage into reverse than look at the shift bracket where the short shift cable mounts and there is a slot. Loosen the 7/16 hex that is touching the bracket and move the stud so you are pulling the short cable.

Try this and retest in water under load.

Anyway there are tests that would tell you if the cable is bad but to difficult to type out here but in general if you remove the shift control cable from the shift bracket, shift the control handle to full forward/wide open throttle and make a mark on the cable end, now go full reverse and repeat. Measure distance between marks, (2 7/8" to 3 1/8") anymore and replace the control cable.
 
Thanks bt and ghost.
Problem was solved and yes it was my own fault when reinstalling the lower.
Not knowing what i was fully doing and being over eager to get her on the water the shift shoe was facing the wrong way.
I was reluctant to take the leg off and dumping the new fliud but i sorted a way to reuse it.
Thank you for the really detailed responses though : )

Now when changing gears she dose so without stalling but with a bit of clacking though im reasonably sure that its typical/normal ammounts.

Thanks for your time

Also, forum related question, am/can i supposed to delete my posts when they have become obsolete ?
 
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