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Engine paint quick spot touchup worth it

S

slauder

Regular Contributor
"I have some rust spots on int

"I have some rust spots on intake manfold, exhaust man, elbos ans risers. I see some blue over spray on hoses for previous owner.

I spray corosion inhibitor at winter layup each of three years I own.

Is it worth it to clean up with wire brush and paint even though I don't remove parts?

Any tape and spray worth it?

I may be doing top end in one or two years if all works as hoping.

Thanks, Scott"
 
""Is it worth it "

""Is it worth it "

What I do is ignore the stuff that's on the 4 year replacement cycle, like elbows and risers. Except for any water leaks, of course. The engine/transmission is a bit different, since I'm demanding very long service from these items. I can tell you that keeping a 1976 engine/transmission x2 looking good in the salt 24/7 is not trivial. I do a major sandblasting about every 10 years (engine out of the boat), and more minor touch up every 3. Even with that, my stuff is in no position to make ad pictures! The cary uses engine boxes, and has had chronic stuffing box leaks for a decade. I'm converting to dripless, half way done now. Both of those designs tend to cause more exposure to the salt.
If you use the waxy anti-corrosion stuff (which I like), you will need to wipe/rinse that off before painting, adding to the fun! You can use the strong acid "on-off" on steel and iron with great results, but be warned that it attacks some gaskets, like the ones between the riser and manifold. Id say only use the strong acids away from gaskets and seals and neutralize with baking soda afterwards.

edit: i've also converted most every exterior fastener to stainless. Including the exposed head bolts (ARP bolts). Despite warnings to the contrary, even the transmission coupler bolts are stainless. It is true that 304SS is about equal in strength to grade 2 mild steel, but it's worked well for me. "
 
"Manifolds rust out from the i

"Manifolds rust out from the inside, but there's nothing like a nice, clean, rust free motor!

Jeff"
 
"Funny you should this topic.I

"Funny you should this topic.I'm devoting about 5 working days when it warms up to detailing my engine room.I used to use spray gunk which prepared the surfaces for paint.Now, I wipe the engines down often and use liquid sandpaper and either spray or brush the crusader blue on. Out of an 8 hr. day the prep. takes about 6 hrs. It is painstaking work but the results are worth it. Ed."
 
"Anybody ever use the POR two

"Anybody ever use the POR two part product that's advertised in Hemmings classic car restoration mag? Says its a permanent fix that can be applied over rust, then painted. Wonder if it holds up on a boat.
Mike"
 
I haven't seen anything &#

I haven't seen anything "off the shelf" that stops rust on iron in a marine environment. Lots of things that slow it down but most require a backup or complementary process. all the electrical or chemical applied treatments last much longer but are much more expensive. A good can of paint and proper prep is the most cost effective.
 
"Ed,
Where do you find Crusad

"Ed,
Where do you find Crusader engine paint that you can apply by brushing it on? I have look for it but can't find any. Any ideas? Brush on can be so much easier.
Henry"
 
"The Crusader paint is like $1

"The Crusader paint is like $10-12 a spray can but there are several others you can find in auto stores for about $4.00 each. I did use Crusader paint on all of my parts during the rebuild and 2 years later they look great.

EJ Breeze ... would approve
wink.gif
"
 
"A little late to the party on

"A little late to the party on this one, but I did both of my 454 Crusaders with the POR15 products last spring. I taped off the engines in place, degreased, dried, soda blasted, vacuumed, washed and painted everything in place with an airbrush. I did all the new parts in my shop. Even dead as a doornail the Port engine looks sharp! I caught a lot of flack over painting crusaders black however. I personally believe anyone that Spray Paint Cans should not be allowed within a planets distance of a motor, but that just me. The PO went crazy with the stuff. It was on the stringers, the gas tanks, the shaft. Took three weekends to clean up the mess."
 
"Joel,
The best spray paint I

"Joel,
The best spray paint I have ever used was the Crusader paint, I have no clue who makes it. It seems to spray very well, glosses up and dries quickly. The valve covers on my rebuild look like auto show quality from a freakin' spray can, AND....2 (going on 3) years later as well. My trans and bell housing were done this past July...they still look out of the box new.

I agree that it does not take much to MASK the stuff you want to keep clean...Seems that some owners are so overtaken by the new beauty of the freshly painted engine, they don't see the overspray?"
 
"Crusader Blue, 12oz. from MOE

"Crusader Blue, 12oz. from MOELLER...

I was planning to wipe down with acetone, wire brush, wipe down again, tape and spray...

Let you know...

let me make sure I put down something under engine. I dont want to have to repaint the room with awlgrip..."
 
I just called the marine store

I just called the marine store where Ithought I saw the can of crusader blue paint .I was wrong;they do not have any .So I'll spray it.sorry.
 
I think I paid like....$11. pe

I think I paid like....$11. per can of branded CRUSADER blue spray? Maybe more or less either way
 
"I think its always good to tr

"I think its always good to treat the visible rust as much as you can, it spreads like cancer. I always give a surface spray on the metal with wd40 after everything is dry and clean, just to be safe."
 
"Think we would all bead blast

"Think we would all bead blast or blast with something, the parts that come off. The more I look online the harder it gets to figure what to do with my rust on intake manifold on the engine. Also some spots on value covers, risers, etc...

So I will spay paint... What to do before spray? I see wd40 could help as coating to stop rust but not if you are going to paint.

Acids have H issue with brittling iron. Mollasis eats the O without issue on iron. Slow process submerged. Navel jelly looks like it might work but not how effective if toppical? Bet I just wire brush find some mild etch and paint for a few...."
 
"molasses and naval jelly use

"molasses and naval jelly use the same chemical reaction, just a different concentration.

The wire brush method you mentioned is probably the best for time efficiency. Sand blasting work well, too, but is rather messy unless you have an enclosure.

I've been experimenting with electrolysis and it is effective but slow, like the molasses. Not done with the current part so can't say how well it holds the paint.

If the parts are off, a machine shop can hot tank them (acid bath). It works ok for surface rust but not too well on anything thick (unless removed before the bath)."
 
"My 1992 vintage engines have

"My 1992 vintage engines have had little more than brushable rust. It takes more effort but it seems to be holding well.

I did glass bead my intake manifolds during the valve jobs but I was a bit concerned about any beads dropping into the cyls. I used compressed air and water and more air until I was 99.9% sure I had gotten it all. It is nice when you see the old paint and dirt disappear and that new metal show thru.

Given the fact that unless they are out of the boat, you can always mask the parts, remove a piece here and there and shoot the area quickly. It is how I have done it and my engines look new.

Just like those detail tricks, if a few visible parts look GREAT, it helps hide a few sore spots that were quickly sprayed. After all , they are all blue"
 
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