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Engine over heats when in gear

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ShrimpGod

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Hi, new to this forum due to my latest purchase... 1976 Apollo with 351W and sterndrive Model #981061 Serial #W131473... first, the motor sits at 160-165 in my driveway with the hose attached...it is the same when in neutral in the water, but after 5-10 minutes in drive or reverse the temp climbs to 190+ then overheats! Please help!
 
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The zerk is located on the leading vertical edge just under the cavitation plate in a hole.

You need to insert the grease fitting into the hole. A bit easier with the drive fully up and rotated port side.
 
i have the same engine in a 1991 235 four winns. went through the same problem. changed the impeller, thrermo, water pump, bla, bla bla. took the power sterring cooler off....could barley get air through it. instead of buying another I sweated off the ends cleaned the trash (some parts of impeller) and sweat ends back on. I can run the living crap out of it now and it wont break 120 degrees. I run it in salt water. this is easy to check and cheaper if its the problem to clean other than replace. good luck.
 
I have never heard of power steering on an electric shift stringer drive, (tru-course was even optional in 76) but good suggestion to check if he does have it.
 
Oh boy, so I took it to a local shop in Aberdeen, WA and after spending $1600 on having the lower unit rebuilt and new impeller installed, it is STILL overheating! it idles fine at about 155 degrees, when it is in drive it will still cool at low speed but as soon as I try to throttle her up the temp starts climbing over 190...what gives? I was told to replace the carb?!? Any suggestions? And I do not have power steering. Was told by the mechanic that the manifolds are good, etc. etc. Could this be timing/carb problem? Too rich/lean? It doesn't seem to have any power, dogs down and wont even get up and plane out!
 
Thanks hystat, I did that before taking it in to the 'repair' shop and I was still having this problem. I'm at a loss for this one.
 
I would replace the line from the drive to the thermostat with clear hose and have a look at waterflow/bubbles. Also run that hose into a bucket - (boat in the lake- not on muffs) should be about like a garden hose on 1/2 or 2/3 at idle. Rev it up and should be like a garden hose on full.

I put a flushing tee in mine, so a couple times a season, I just loosen the cap at idle to make sure there is healthy flow - it's like uncorking a geyser. The impeller in these drives is huge.
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If you have good flow in, start thinking about flow getting out. Water shutters, risers, riser gaskets, manifolds, block etc.

Compression test the motor - a blown head gasket can mess with water flow as exhaust gases fight with the water.
 
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