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dcso

Contributing Member
I am thinking about pulling the engine on my 86 baliner trophy t:"
1. determime what aq it is ( can't read the number near the starter )
2. I only got 10 mph at 3000 rpm, the prop was badly dinged by the previous owner? and possible sprun, that has been sent out for repair.
question, while am at it and have no knowledge of the condition of the the coupler should I go ahead and replace anyway? how can i safely say it's ok, i'm incinle to just to replace it & and is there anything else I should replace while I have it while I have it a part ?.
thanks
ted
 
The AQ model is usually engraved. Have you tried cleaning the name plate?

If the coupler does not look good upon inspection, then you are safer by replacing it. In case of doubt, just replacing it will give you peace of mind.

You may want to replace the pds bearings and seals, as well as the pilot bearing on the crankshaft (if it has one). Then, now that you are at it, you may also want to replace the u-joints, the drive and exhaust bellows. Also, you may want to check the raw water hose connector and, if it has some signs of corrosion, you may want to replace it.

Draining the oil in the outdrive will give you an idea if there is wear taking place (metal filings in the oil) or if there is water ingress (milky/gray oil).

There are other things you may want to look at, like the shift mechanism seal.

Check the engine oil pan. If severely corroded, the best thing to do is to get a new one. Also, check the belt pulleys for pitting, and consider replacing them if they show signs of corrosion.

Consider inspecting and rebuilding if necessary the raw water pump. Also, you may want to replace the normal tune-up components (spark plugs, rotor, cap, wires,.....)

This shoud be a good start, but we could make a much longer list if you wish.:D
 
thanks for the advice! I think I'll just got through it all and be done with fresh refeb plug ,wire points and all
thanks
a bunch
ted
 
Volvo Engine Drive plates don't slip!! They either work or don't work. There is NO rubber in them like M/C and the newer OMC's. They are actually very durable and about the only way to kill one is to let it get salted onto the D/S and when you pull the flywheel case it bends the heck out of the drive or pulls the center out of it. It gets it's dampening effect from a number of springs that compress to take up the twist of the prop trying to collapse water.
 
Agree, the drive couplers rarely fail.... when they do, you'll know it.

Post which engine this is and one of us can tell you what your over-all gear ratio should be.
Often a PO will install an incorrect lower unit, causing the over-all ratio to be wrong. This can play havic with trying to get a propeller to work correctly.
There is no substitute for the correct ratio for the engine!

Hull must be clean, engine in full tune, drive clean and ratio correct before you can perform a wot rpm test to determine the correct propeller.


Ditto El Pescador on replacing the PDS bearings/seals.... a MUST DO, IMO. Cost for parts will be approximately $35-40.
 
dcso said:
thanks for the advice! I think I'll just got through it all and be done with fresh refeb plug ,wire points and all
thanks
a bunch
ted
Click to expand...

Consider replacing the points and condenser for an electronic ignition kit (that is, if the previous owner did not already upgrade). You'll be glad you did. Once you tell us which engine you have (4 cyl, V6, V8) and the distributor make and model, we can point you in the right direction.
 
i belive it was a prestolite, i have the paper work in the boat. the prop was repaired ( big dings )ect.. but they never checked to see if it was spun, when I asked if they had checked it the guy wasn't sure and would have the re-check it, looking at the prop myself I can't beleive that it wasn't spun I'm waiting to hear back from them hopefully this week.
ted
 
Just got word from the prop shop ( soderbloom's ) in minnesota definitely spun and being repaired
ted
 
there's no tag on it, its a real P trying figure everthing out last year I just took the points down to my NAPA and matched them up. It it is set perfectly at 16ths and confirmed by the dewll angle( forget what the manuel said but it is right on the money! With a completely refurb'd prop I should be in business
ted
 
Ted, after setting points, be sure to re-set timing.
Check TA as well...... this will let you know if your distributor's advancing system is working as it should.
It will make a difference! Sometimes, a HUGE difference!
 
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