Without changing the carb, the replacement choke - either style - will have to go back where the original one sits on the manifold.
The only drawback to the electric units is their cost - they aren't cheap last time I looked. The electric ones will open much faster, especially if your crossover passage has accumulated the normal carbon buildup.
As far as getting the old one off - nothing special - just like any other rusted fastener. Penetrating oil will help as will heat (be CAREFUL using heat around the carb and be VERY CAREFUL if you remove the carb). If the head of the screw snaps off, you can always drill it and retap it. There's plenty of iron on the mounting pad - just don't go too deep.