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E8rcob backfires water when trying to start it

ba_50

Regular Contributor
I put a new carb kit in with the plastic float.
It will start sometimes and go like it should but it might quit and take an hour of adjustments to go again.
Right now it blows water out of the barrel when trying to start it.
I richen the mixture but it doesn't help.

It is critical about what mixture setting it will start at.
If adjusted for idle it won't start.

Thanks
 
What does the slow speed needle use for a seat.
There isn't any in the diagram. I wonder if the problem might be there.
 
Have you had this engine for some time... or is it new to you?

When is the last time it ran normally?

What was the reason for the carburetor job?
 
My Dad bought it new. Last summer I could run it normally sometimes for an hour and then it would quit. New fuel line with fresh fuel didn't help.
It had a cork float that was looking bad so it was replaced with a plastic one.
 
Did you surface the flange on the carb and install a new gasket? Always check adjust engine sync whenever you install a carb. The throttle cam has a mark when that mark is center of the roller the carb should be fully closed and as it passes center of the roller the carb butterfly should just begin to open. You loosen the two bolts holding the throttle cam on the mag plate and adjust the cam position to get it close as possible.
 
One of mounting bolts was replaced. It has a new gasket but wasn't resurfaced.
There is a single mark on top of the cam and it lines up just in the right side of the roller with the throttle closed. I smoothed up the leading edge because of a rough spot.
The compression is 130 each.
The carb kit was put in because it wasn't running right.
 
Last edited:
The compression of your engine at 130 psi on both cylinders is outstanding.

The spark plugs should be Champion L78V plugs, gaped at either .030 (long life) or .040 (strong spark)

With the spark plugs removed, the spark should jump a 7/16" gap with a strong blue lightning like flame... a real SNAP... Does it?

NOTE-1: Once the carburetor is set properly, it does not normally need to be reset in order to restart the engine. If it does, then something is vastly wrong within the carburetor (flooding/starving) or the fuel pump diaphragm is cracked and leaking fuel into the crankcase.

NOTE-2: A contradiction to the above is that between a very hot day and a very cold day, the slow speed adjustable needle valve may need to be moved ever so slightly (1/8 turn) one way or the other to obtain a smooth idle.

Make absolutely sure that the carburetor is thoroughly clean. Do not depend on solvent and sir pressure alone to to clean those passageways... use carefully a piece of single strand steel wire to do that job, then follow up with the solvent and air pressure.

The high speed jet that is screwed vertically up into the upper body of that 8hp model should be marked with the imprinted number of "36" (.036 ID). Fuel must flow through this jet before the fuel can gain access to any other passageway.

When all of the above is as it should be............... Adjust the carburetor as follows.
******************
(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
(J. Reeves)

Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

Note 1: As a final double check setting of the slow speed valve(s), if the engine has more than one carburetor, do not attempt to gradually adjust all of the valves/carburetors at the same time. Do one at a time until you hit the above response (die out or spit back), then go on to the next valve/carburetor. It may be necessary to back out "all" of the slow speed adjustable needle valves 1/8 turn before doing this final adjustment due to the fact that one of the valves might be initially set ever so slightly lean.

Note 2: If the engine should be a three (3) cylinder engine with three (3) carburetors, start the adjustment sequence with the center carburetor.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

Let us know what you find.
 
That has the cam riveted to the mounting ring I could not find any pics on ebay, on earlier models it is on the top flat part of the cam. If you put fuel mix directly in the plug holes will it fire up? If not do a spark gap test with a spark gap tester It must jump a 3/8 inch open air gap with a crisp blue snap.
 
It fires, runs a bit and quits.
Cleaned carb with bread tie wires, gapped 77jc4 plugs .030, spark jumps about 1\2", fuel pump works.
 
I replaced the pump diaphram but not the dome diaphram. Pumps ok.

It runs a little then quits.

With the plug wires off and
with full choke the plugs are dry.
The carb is going in a gallon of solvent next.
 
After soaking the carb for 24 hrs it started but ran rough. It eventually ran normally for 5 minutes and quit. There was dirt in the float bowl. There is a new inline paper filter. It must be that or the bulb or line.
 
The carb was soaked a total of 3 days and night.
The flywheel key is good. I flushed out the fuel line till it came out clean with fresh fuel and clean gas can.
It still won't start. I don't have a spare carb to try either
 
After 30 pulls it ran chug a lugged long enough to open the throttle almost open . when it was throttled back to idle it reved up , idled down and is running normally for the last 5 minutes. We will see.
 
It went 20 minutes and it restarted 3x first pull.
I will try it when it cools off. Might br making progress.
 
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