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DT15C tricky issue

Sunking

New member
G'day,

This is one for the thinkers or someone who might have seen something like this before, it is certainly testing my skills. Hopefully this yarn is pleasant reading.

Details;
1996 DT15C in good condition probably <100 hrs use, oil injection system long since removed by my late father (outboard mechanic) and running on 50:1 premix.

Little sister had been using it for years and on her last trip it got VERY hot and seized. Her story,.......she launched the tinny then 3/4 throttle for ~15minutes down the river, no issues, 1/2 an hour of trolling around dropping nets then a quick squirt down the river again at ~3/4 throttle and she thinks it sort of went bang (or something, can't recall exactly) and stopped. Restarted and idled around picking up nets, seemingly (??) no issues then back down the river at 3/4 throttle and again it stopped. She couldn't start it and smoke was coming off engine. She paddled to the bank.

Brother in-law started it in a water drum a week later and it runs but a bit sluggish he thinks, and he sends a video, I can see the tell tale is blocked but exhaust relief port has plenty of water coming out.

They buy another motor, I pick it up and set to investigating to see if it is worth repairing, it was my late dads so would like to keep it and otherwise it is a low hours engine.

Here is what I find;

The water pump looks fine, near new condition, it had been replaced a year or so ago, the pick up is tucked up under the cav plate and unlikely (but not impossible) to be blocked by a foreign object, eg plastic bag and no blockage present in the water pipes.

Cylinder head no longer grey factory color but burnt tan, wires and cdi mounted on top cylinder melted but still working, it clearly got hot and for some time. Powerhead removed and engine split, top piston has small scuff mark from when it seized, rings undamaged, bore had light scuff mark, piston crowns normal with light carbon all over and no sign of pre-ignition or detonation damage, no sign of water ingress to cylinder, in fact pistons looked like new and bore otherwise like new. Gudgeon, big end and mains look great. The tell tale well in the power head had half a tea spoon of calcium scale blocking the outlet, not an issue in anyway, normal sort of tell tale blockage for that design.

I cleaned and measured the piston for eccentricity, polished out the small scuff mark with wet n dry, a light hone to the bores, new gaskets (no easy feat as somewhat obsolete) replaced impeller as already had one to go and reassembled.

Spark was ok but due the melted cdi and some wires with the insulation melted off a second hand cdi was sourced and damaged wiring repaired. With a bit of coaxing it started and ran in the tank, it settled down and idled, started 1st/2nd pull thereafter and revved up in neutral promptly-ish. Pumping plenty of water from relief and now unblocked tell tale

Cracked a beer, looked up and toasted the old man for passing on some of his knowledge and skills, although as follows not enough.

Three weeks later I put the motor on the tinny and take it for a run, it started 3rd pull, the usual choke on /off coaxing as it warms up for the first 15 seconds then it idles. Into forward open the throttle and it dies back to an idle, typical of a lean mixture scenario. Idle back to the bank it stalls/stops and won't restart. Tank vent is open and bulb primed, no joy, back to the shed.

Spark is thin blue while I am pulling it over, I have seen better and worse, fuel is good. I get it running again in the tank, twice whilst idling it does that classic 2 stroke misfire and snuffs itself and it difficult to restart, but it does start and it runs ok -ish in the tank or awhile.

There is something going on, why did it get so hot, I would've thought even a stoichiometric fuel A/F ratio wouldn't cause the level over heating as it has clearly been exposed to. Timing drift leading to detonation would leave a signature on the piston crown yet it was fine.

Why did my little sis think she thought it went bang and stopped initially.

The thermostat hasn't been checked, but I'll check this on its first loaded run on the water and water is fine. Timing has not been checked yet, but I doubt it is an issue, the advance pick up works fine and I can test it at idle by overriding it with my finger against the spring bias.

Fuel pump has not been checked yet, but I'm not losing prime at it picks up fuel from a tank 5' below the carby, blocked main jet,.....maybe, but it has a good inline filter, probably an easy enough check though so that will be the next place to check.

Anyone want to have a crack at internet engine diagnosis?

Thanks for reading this far and making it through the waffle.
 
having the same exact issues with a dt15c
Good luck, I have since been through the carby both pilot and main are clear, timing checked, compression checked, and a second attempt on the boat gave the same result, starts idles revs up in neutral but once in gear it bogs and dies. All the hall marks of excessively lean, yet choke application doesn't save it, my next attempt is a squirty bottle with a bit of fuel and will remove the inlet cover off the carby and squirt a mist of fuel down the throat as it bogs. If this gives a result then I am really confused as the carby is fine.

I am wondering if the lower crank seal is leaking and I am kicking myself for not replacing it when I had the power head off.

I won't be beaten but I might end up in the mad house over this.
 
Mine is going up for sale! I have other motors so not the end of the world; this ones ate up enough of my time; let someone else have a crack at it.
 
Mine is going up for sale! I have other motors so not the end of the world; this ones ate up enough of my time; let someone else have a crack at it.
Mine still thinks it has me beat, sure I have parked it in the corner for now but it's just that I have been busy, in the next fortnight I will spend a day back on it and I'll crack it. I won't be beaten by a simple 2 stroke.
 
Tractor 33 ---What is your motor doing / not doing?----I would not worry about " base timing " on this motor.------Maximum timing is something that needs to be set at the factory and forgotten about.-----But check for a sheared flywheel key.
 
It seems to be missing on number 2 cylinder as the engine won’t idle and shakes until 2/3 rpm or I don’t notice the miss at higher rpm’s. I just bought this and the engine would not start using the choke. So I have cleaned the carb three times and seems a little better but still shakes and won’t idle. Compression is 80 psi on both cylinders, coils checked the same with an ohm meter, new gas filter and gas hoses are good, fresh recreation gas two weeks ago. I have checked the plugs for spark and they both produce spark and also replaced them and gapped them correctly. The other thing is the two mounting bolts for the chi module must got hot because the bottom of the module under the bolts melted a little! Thanks for any help!
 
Sounds to me that the motor overheated.----Here i would remove cylinder head to inspect cylinders.---Are you sure it is an 89 model ?----A 2 stroke or 4 stroke ?
 
Thanks for the help. So it is a two cycle and the I’d plate shows DT15C 01502 90… maybe a 2 then the rest you can’t read. Also after looking closer to the cylinder head the paint changes color around the head. The block is a gray color yet around the head it has a tan.brown tint so maybe it did over heat by someone? Hmm
 
G'day Tractor,

No I haven't solved the issue with mine as yet, it may have beaten me, however I have a long list of things I am pretty certain is NOT the cause and very small list of things that it could be. Your issue sounds different and sounds electrical. Here follows some testing thoughts to eliminate and isolate problems.

1. Get it running where it is shaking (sounds like running on single cylinder due ignition fault) and with the cover off and an insulated long nose pliers gently pry one spark plug cap off and slowly open the distance from the internal part of the cap to the top of the spark plug electrode. You should here it ticking (long jumping spark) and then that cylinder will stop as the gap becomes too far. If the engine stops, the other cylinder was dead from the outset. Swap and repeat to identify the other cylinder. This will also test the output of your coils to throw a spark 1/4 of an inch when you increase the gap. Tip start with the cap lightly oiled or a little loose to make pulling it off easier. No fuel leaks or spills when doing this unless a Darwin award is in your sights. You will need the motor under load, a large test tank is best, if on the boat don't take silly risks, if easy fine if not source a large test tank, (hint O/B mechanic).

2. Set a power setting where it will sustain the shaking indefinitely (if it will) and disconnect the fuel line, as the fuel bowl empty's, the mixture will lean out and if the fault is fuel, in this case shaking indicates excessively rich, (there should also be a lot of smoke) the fault will remedy.

3. Your engine has been overheated in the past but I don't think this is the issue, it might be, but test 1 and 2 as they're easy to do.

4. If 1 and 2 don't give you something disregard #3 and try fresh plugs and run it where it is shaking then stop it and pull the plugs and look at the insulator, they should be a little oily (as it has been misfiring due electrical or excessive fuel) and both even-ish. It may have a corroded head/water jacket allowing hot combustion gases into the cooling system = overheating and allowing water into the combustion chamber = misfiring.

5. Good luck! we're only at the top of the list of things to check.

I have pulled the power head back off mine, removed the carb, sealed the inlet manifold and set up a water manometer to test crankcase pressure. I have no data for this test so a bit blind but the manometer only moves about an inch in clear 1/4" tube, less than I would have thought. The crank seals top and bottom "look" fine and are hard to source to replace and I have heard the internal crankshaft seal that isolates crankcase 1 and 2 can leak passing gases from one to the other which will effectively weaken the air/fuel charge being transferred back up to the combustion chamber on the down stroke. The crankshaft needs to be split to fix this, not worth it. This "might" be my issue, but I doubt its yours, but stranger things happen.

Presently the power head sits on the corner of the workbench with a dust cover over it, I'll leave it this way for a few months and see if that fixes it.
 
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