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Dry Cylinder

Some one (previous) disconnected and I am just now getting rewired. I only wired coils and points for now. I can get the engine to start but only by priming the top cylinder. When it is running is runs fairly good, but when I kill the engine and want to restart it, it won't go. The top plug is dry and I have to prime again.

I have taken the card of and cleaned. The fuel seems to keep the carb bowl full.

It doesn't spit or pop. I have cleaned the carb and am just wandering if I should taker a look at the reeds while I am that close.
 
Best to start with the basic trouible shooting procedure.........

Check the compression. What is the compression readings of both cylinders?

Check spark. Spark plugs removed, the spark should jump a 3/8" gap with a strong blue lightning like flame, a real SNAP! Does it?

If the above area are as they should be, the problem is usually something overlooked within the carburetor.......

Did you manually clean the brass high speed jet located in the bottom center portion of the float chamber? If not, do so.
Is the choke butterfly functioning as it should?
If that carburetor has an adjustable slow speed needle valve, it should bee adjusted as follows.

(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
(J. Reeves)
Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.


Note 1: As a final double check setting of the slow speed valve(s), if the engine has more than one carburetor, do not attempt to gradually adjust all of the valves/carburetors at the same time. Do one at a time until you hit the above response (die out or spit back), then go on to the next valve/carburetor. It may be necessary to back out "all" of the slow speed adjustable needle valves 1/8 turn before doing this final adjustment due to the fact that one of the valves might be initially set ever so slightly lean.

Note 2: If the engine should be a three (3) cylinder engine with three (3) carburetors, start the adjustment sequence with the center carburetor.
When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.
 
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