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Dripless prop shaft seal?

C

Cruisers Man

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I know this is not an engine related question but I'm sure some of you can give some good input. The problem is the dripless prop shaft seal is leaking really bad while underway. It gets progressively worse as the RPM's are increased. What I really need to know is if this seal can changed in the water or does the boat have to be put on the hard. Also would really be interested in the ballpark cost of the repair. Thanks in advance!
 
Your going to have to pull the boat. The cost of a complete new seal kit is around $250. Maybe easier than trying to find parts for yours. So you know what your into so far. Labor charges? Who knows. Its a fairly straight forward job. How's access? If you have a "v" drive it may have to be removed. Will the shaft coupling come off or will they have to heat it, bang on it, cuss it and finally cut it off (add $80 new) . Will the shaft clear the rudder (after they remove the prop) so they can slide it back enough for clearance(usually it does) or will the rudder have to come off.
Just some thoughts off the top of my head.
Good Luck,Lou
 
One more thought. You didn't hit anything or run aground? Any vibration? Just wondering if the leak is a symptom of bent prop,shaft or strut?
 
This was recent problem. Don't think it was a prop strike but would need to be checked. This boat has deep prop pockets so the prop will probably need to be pulled to facilitate shaft removal. Thanks for the reply.
 
Cruisers Man said:
I know this is not an engine related question but I'm sure some of you can give some good input. The problem is the dripless prop shaft seal is leaking really bad while underway. It gets progressively worse as the RPM's are increased. What I really need to know is if this seal can changed in the water or does the boat have to be put on the hard. Also would really be interested in the ballpark cost of the repair. Thanks in advance!
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$, depends on the access. I swapped both port and stb stuffing boxes with PSS dripless while in the water, as a solo job. But, not all boats are so easy to work on.
 
Does it leak when the boat is not running. Sometimes the seal is good and the shaft has a groove worn in it. If this is the case you can loosen the clamps on the dripless and move it a few millimeters as to get the seal out of the grove.


If the seal is bad, sometimes there is an extra seal on the shaft. Anytime I have installed a dripless or replaced a seal I would hand an extra seal on the shaft so the shaft would not need to be removed to replace it.
 
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The active sealing area isn't on the shaft so moving it to avoid a grove on the shaft really doesn't apply.

if the sealing faces are true and there is adequate tension on them from the spring, you're better off hauling the boat to investigate the situation.
 
makomark said:
The active sealing area isn't on the shaft so moving it to avoid a grove on the shaft really doesn't apply.

if the sealing faces are true and there is adequate tension on them from the spring, you're better off hauling the boat to investigate the situation.
Click to expand...
Depending on the age of his dripless, the "active sealing area" can be directly on the shaft. Like a timing cover balancer seal and the grove the seal makes after time.
 
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