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Do you put anything on your gaskets?

R

rmcderm313

Regular Contributor
Hi All,

I've replaced several gaskets on my outboard over the last few weeks. I haven't been applying anything to them when I do. Should I be? Is the answer different for water seals on the engine block and carburetor gaskets?

Any guidelines would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Rob
 
Depends on if you intend to take the part off again. If so, anti-seize coat the gasket. For Power head to tower gaskets, I got talked into using only silicone, and it's worked well for me.


Jeff
 
Thanks Jeff, Given my experience level.... I most assuredly plan on taking things apart again...

Anti seize lubricant like this from Permatex?

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...lubricant/_/N-25qx?itemIdentifier=178722_0_0_

and then on the silicone, something like this from WD-40?

http://www.wd40spe******t.com/products/silicone-lubricant/

**Not sure why the link above keeps getting mangled when I save the post, but the site is wd40spe******t.com then /products/silicone-lubricant.**
**Ahh, it did it again for some reason it doesn't like the word "spe******t" after WD40.... it keeps replacing it with asterisks **
**OK it doesn't like the word spe******t at all.. weird..**

Are there any gaskets that should only be installed dry? Carburetor?
Thanks as always.
Rob
 
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The ONLY place to avoid using silicone sensibly (note the word usage) is where gasoline contacts it.

I've assembled dozens of Merc power head to towers using silicone only and never had a problem. It's easy to clean up when you yank the PH off again (don't ask!) and it saves mucho bucks--they don't give those gaskets away. Often you need to buy a whole set (50 to 100 bucks) for one stinking gasket.

And consider this: I installed the plugs end water jacket on a Merc 110 the other day, using nice, cleaned surfaces and a new , thick gasket. And it leaked like a sieve! Put it together again with silicone on both sides of the gasket and it didn't leak a drop.

The way NOT to use silicone is smearing it on an inch thick and letting it get into things it shouldn't, and where gasoline touches.

One final point: We're talking soft, aluminum gasket surfaces here. Gluing the gaskets in place with a sealer means scraping the HELL out of both parts to get the old gasket off. You might get away with this once or twice, but eventually the mating surfaces will be damaged by the scraper--and I don't care how careful you are.

Jeff
 
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I use a carbide scraper or a scraper made from an old power hacksaw blade.----With careful work there is never a problem with leaking gaskets.-----Use a thin smear of aviation gasket sealer at times.
 
Have you guys ever used a product called gasket remover spray. I got some at Oreilly auto parts. You spray it on the gasket and let it set for 15 minutes. The gasket just melts and you can easily scrap it of with anything flat. Virtually no damage to the metal. No more razor blades and gouges.
 
I have used it several times in the last few months. I had some especially difficult gaskets on a water jacket. I sprayed some of this stuff on waited 15 minutes and scraped it off with very little effort. It is also good for cleaning off any little pieces or discoloration if the gasket does come off mostly on its own too. This is what i used.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d....oap?ck=Search_N2363_-1_-1&pt=N2363&ppt=C1984
 
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Carb gaskets are the only ones I don't use sealer on; and the water pump too. Since I run Mercs I have no head gaskets. I use the blue RTV sealer/gasket maker on all other gaskets which are really just water jacket covers. Works for me. Back in 2004 I changed my thermostat and in pulling the cover off I tore up the gasket. I didn't have a new gasket with the new stat so I just applied blue in the places that tore and where sealing was required. Haven't been back in it since.

Mark
 
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