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tony101

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Hi again,
My pertronix distributor on a 318 has given up the ghost, corrosion. I am having trouble sourcing a new one ( aus) I can get a Mallory one that fits? Would there be any issues with this?Would it be best to buy the " matching "coil and ballast resister, Or would I be better off sticking with the pertronix ?
Cheers
tony
 
I assume you mean Prestolite? Plenty of those around, and they work fairly well. Mallory's are fine, but be sure to order one that goes with the rotation of your motor: normal or reverse. It makes a difference (thrust bearings).

Jeff
 
fastjeff said:
I assume you mean Prestolite? Plenty of those around, and they work fairly well. Mallory's are fine, but be sure to order one that goes with the rotation of your motor: normal or reverse. It makes a difference (thrust bearings).

Jeff
Click to expand...
Thanks Jeff
its a pertronix " flame thrower " d 241800. Is this an odd fit? It was on the engine when I bought it.The Mallory's seem to say they fit both left and right rotation motors?.do you have a recommendation ?
Tony
 
The distributors on marine are the same for both engines. I think the port side has a spacer that needs to be removed and reinstalled on the new distributor. I use the pertronix on my boat the ballast resistor is not used the distributor is basically a plug and play unit.J C Whitney Jeggs and Summit racing all sell the marine pertronix dist.

Bob
 
Any coil will work but I used the pertronix solid coil .Supposed to hold up better under rough conditions.
Bob
 
..."The distributors on marine are the same for both engines."

NO! That "spacer" is a thrust collar holding the oil pump gear down during reverse thrust loads. The distributor on non-Chryslers MUST take that into account or it won't last long.

Jeff
 
Sorry Jeff but you are wrong on this one I replaced both of my distributors with the same part #s check part # for distributors they are the same for both engines.
Bob
 
Thanks for the replies, the Mallory is 1/2 inch shorter from the " flange" to the tip of the drive, is this due to the "spacer" you mentioned for the contra rotating engine?
Tony
 
Here's what that reverse rotator distributor looks like. Note the collar on the bottom (that requires the longer distributor.) Weird, huh!

Jeff
 

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    Reverse Rotation Distributor.JPG
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My above post....edited (edit didn't work)

Look here on page 39.. in the ignition catalog http://www.pertronix.com/catalogs/default.aspx I put in two last summer...plug and play. I think them to be way better than Mallory junk...I just hear of too many failures with Mallory. http://www.pertronix.com/support/manuals/default.aspx

Here is the best deal you will find http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ignitor-II-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item5ae2c95565&vxp=mtr

The 318 has the key drive at the bottom...not the gear drive. I put the same exact part number on both engines..no problems.

Would it be best to buy the " matching "coil and ballast resister
Click to expand...

***No ballast resistor needed !
***You can use any coil .6 ohms or above. per instructions. http://www.pertronix.com/support/manuals/default.aspx

***How old is your coil and ignition wires? Maybe time to pony up a little doe and get all new. Pertronix has wires and coils...why not match them all...

*FlameThrower II coil 45,000 volts

*Pertronix plug wires for corvette may work...I suggest getting 90 deg boot on both ends...the straight are very very hard to get on...and you are never really sure they are on good. I made my own set...but by the time you purchase a good set of crimpers ($50) and make all the wires (pain in the behind) I would try to find factory made wires that will go over the top of the exhaust logs. Call or email Pertronix help line and ask for measurement of wire sets you think will work.

Looking at $400 Benjamins per engine for all new ignition system.

Good luck...let us know how it goes.
 
Thanks again for the replies, looks like the pertronix and new coil and leads is the go. Local supplier says one month to get the bits, that's kinda why I was interested in the Mallory. It's winter here and perfect boating weather so trying to get bits ASAP. Anyway will let you know how it goes!

Cheers
tony
 
tundrarules said:
Look here on page 39.. in the ignition catalog http://www.pertronix.com/catalogs/default.aspx I put in two last summer...plug and play. I think them to be way better than Mallory junk...I just hear of too many failures with Mallory. http://www.pertronix.com/support/manuals/default.aspx

Here is the best deal you will find http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ignitor-II-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item5ae2c95565&vxp=mtr
Click to expand...
Mallory did have some issues with the YLU series that uses Photo-Eye. The YLM is VR, and we don't usually see issues with VR.

With the Pertronix, you have Hall Effect triggering with the magnets embedded into the plastic component within a small circumference.
Flywheel Hall Effect trigging works well, but in the fashion that Pertronix does it, you can find information on this that states some can be off as much as 1* or 2* between cylinder firing when displayed on a distributor machine.
1* at the distributor, is 2* at the crankshaft.

With the Flamethrower III, it does look like they've increased the circumference of the magnetic unit.... which should increase accuracy.
 
I guess that I should qualify VR here. VR = Variable Reluctor.
The reluctor is the steel star configured magnetic unit that creates the pulse as it passes the sensor unit.
This is a precisionally machined component and offers a very accurate triggering event.
(example image only)

16819jm_27.jpeg

mag_pulse_gen.gif




VR can also be found on a crankshaft position sensing ignition system.
trigger_wheel_1.gif



Photo-eye also uses a precisionally machined rotor wheel (both in steel and plastic) that interrupts the infra-red beam.
These too offer a very accurate triggering event due to (IMO) the larger circumference where the beam break occurs.


HC-MAL-335.jpg




Hall Effect (as per how Pertronix uses H/E), uses their much smaller diameter die cast plastic component for the magnetic portion.
coil_example.jpg


Don't get me wrong.... they do work, and there are many of these in use, and they make for a good retro-fit kit as well.

I simply do not care for this type of triggering.


.
 
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Ricardo, great graphics !!!!

Someone on this forum said their local NAPA store has had about 10 returned (faulty) Mallory distributors in one season. I've also read on the forums that Mallory coils are crap...many failures.

That's enough for me :rolleyes::rolleyes:

Anyone have any problems with Pertronix????? (besides old, corrosion, etc)
 
Last edited:
tony101 said:
Thanks again for the replies, looks like the pertronix and new coil and leads is the go. Local supplier says one month to get the bits, that's kinda why I was interested in the Mallory. It's winter here and perfect boating weather so trying to get bits ASAP. Anyway will let you know how it goes!

Cheers
tony
Click to expand...

Tony....TONY...TONY...This is the 21 century...Ebay/Amazon ...3 days shipped to the door!!! DONE :rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:
 
tundrarules said:
Ricardo, great graphics !!!!

Someone on this forum said their local NAPA store has had about 10 returned (faulty) Mallory distributors in one season. I've also read on the forums that Mallory coils are crap...many failures.

That's enough for me :rolleyes::rolleyes:
Click to expand...
Yes, and if you were to look further into this, you'll likely find that these were photo-eye, or aka the YLU series, known as the Unilite Ignition!
Steer clear of the photo-eye units, and go with the VR, or aka the YLM series, known as Magnetic Triggering.

With the Pertronix, whether an upgrade kit or complete unit, at the end of the day you'll still have their version of Hall Effect!
And that's with me saying this politely! :)



Look, we could all get into a p!ssing match over this, and still not agree. Each of us has had a different experience, and/or we've read oposing data.
My experience will cause me to stay with VR.
If Pertronix were to increase the diameter of the plastic magnetic enclosure, the accuracy would improve greatly, and I'd probably be on board with the idea.



.
 
I have an original distributor from a 78 318. It worked 3 years ago. If you want it ill send it to you. You can have it for the orice of shipping if tou want to take a chance. Opposite rotation
 
Thanks sammi, appreciate the offer very much, but going to buy new one just trying to work out which is best. Can buy the Mallory from the USA with a new coil, leads and resistor ( delivered to my door) for the same price as the pertronix bought locally .. But have to wait one month for them to order it from the , you guessed it ,the USA !!
 
I don't know if you guys realize that the 318 engines do not have a reverse distributor! The picture that Jeff posted is showing a housing which is not part of the distributor.
If you pop the distributor out of this housing you will see the distributor is exactly the same as the other one. Both of these distributors turn in the same direction! One does not turn opposite of the other. If you don't believe me pull off the caps and crank the engine. Also look at an engine firing order diagram both distributors are the same!
Bob
 
bobv said:
1.... I don't know if you guys realize that the 318 engines do not have a reverse distributor! The picture that Jeff posted is showing a housing which is not part of the distributor.
If you pop the distributor out of this housing you will see the distributor is exactly the same as the other one. Both of these distributors turn in the same direction! One does not turn opposite of the other. If you don't believe me pull off the caps and crank the engine.


2.... Also look at an engine firing order diagram both distributors are the same!
Bob
Click to expand...



1... Bob, that is correct, but is anyone arguing this point?

Let me use the SBC for example, since I am much more familiar with these.
All of the SBC oil pumps rotate in the same direction..... of which is CW if viewed down upon them. Standard LH engine and Reverse RH engine..... they both use the same oil pump.
This means that LH and RH engine distributors must also rotate CW when viewed down upon them.
Isn't the Chrysler 318/360 very similar, if not the same?

With the SBC Reverse Rotation engine, the helical cut of the cam drive gear and the distributor's driven gear change.
With this change also comes a direction change to the vertical thrust from the helical gear cut.
The standard LH engine gear set places an up-lift on the distributor shaft... the distributor gear against the housing checks this thrust.
The Rev RH engine gear set places a down-ward force on the distributor shaft.... so a thrust surface within the distributor housing is required to counter this.
I believe that the Chrysler is a bit different in this respect... but none-the-less, the vertical thrust direction changes between the LH and RH gear sets, unless the camshaft is double gear driven on the RH engine (cam rotates standard direction).
I don't know if the double gear set was used with the 318/360.

Does this make sense?


2.... I have to suggest that both rotate in the same direction, but the firing order will not be the same.
For the Reverse RH engine, we simply rearrange the spark plug wiring in the cap to accommodate for the firing order, and we begin with #1 cylinder.
IOW, the 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 firing order, now becomes 1-2-7-5-6-3-4-8.
We do the same for the RH Reverse Rotation SBC.

images



If I'm mistaken, please correct me.

.
 
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..."If you pop the distributor out of this housing you will see the distributor is exactly the same as the other one."

Correct! There's a big hole in the manifolds that allows either direction distributor to be used.

Jeff
 
Correct: the distributor and oil pumps turn the same way,

What's different with the reverse rotating ENGINES is the thrust load on the distributor. The collar shown in my photo above keeps the oil pump gear down. Without the collar, the thrust laod would have to be absorbed by the distributor's bearings, which would fail in short order.

Apparently, some after market distributors have bearings designed to handle this thrust load without the collar.

Jeff
 
I used aftermarket distributors and had to re use the collar without the collar the new distributors would not fit!
Bob
 
fastjeff said:
Correct: the distributor and oil pumps turn the same way,

What's different with the reverse rotating ENGINES is the thrust load on the distributor. The collar shown in my photo above keeps the oil pump gear down. Without the collar, the thrust laod would have to be absorbed by the distributor's bearings, which would fail in short order.

Apparently, some after market distributors have bearings designed to handle this thrust load without the collar.
Click to expand...
Jeff, I'm just on board for the lesson here.... so forgive my interruption. :)

Question: since the driven gear is installed separately from the distributor, on this engine, do you mean the thrust load on the "gear".... which is then tranferred to the distributor?

The SBC is similar with exception to the gear being attached to the distributor shaft. Any thrust on the driven gear is transfered to the shaft and housing. The standard LH engine thrust up-load is checked by the distributor housing.
LH engine thrust pushes UP on the gear.
RH engine thrust pulls DOWN on this gear.

Both distributors rotate the same CW direction.

The Chrysler thrust direction appears to be a reverse scenario of the SBC..... Yes/No????
IOW.... the standard LH engine pulls down-ward on the driven gear, and the RH engine pushes up-wards on the gear..... Yes/No????

If that's correct, we both have concerns regarding thrust against the distributor housing on the Rev RH engines.
(no issues with the 2 gear-to-gear cam drive RH engines)

So if I understand this, this housing provides the up-load thrust check.... correct?

Second question: if this housing makes a standard LH engine distributor work for a RH engine....., how does the standard LH engine distributor housing work without the housing installed?
Or does it simply install beneath the distributor?

.
 
These distributors do not have a gear just a slot (like a flathead screwdriver) I never had these motors apart but it appears that this collar is some type of spacer.
There is only one distributor listed for these motors I know the collar needs to be re used. Maybe Jeff could shed some better light in this collar?
Bob
 
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