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Difficult Start after shutdown

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sowsiak17

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I have a 1995 Mercruiser 5.0L in my Sea Ray 200OV, purchased March of this year, and the previous owner told me he rebuilt the carb last summer. Here is the issue...Engine starts fine, no problems, engine runs fine, if I turn off and re-start within a minute of shutdown engine restarts no problem. However, if I let the engine sit for more than a minute, difficult to start, typically taking 30+ seconds of cranking to get started, once going again no problems. From other posts I believe I diagnosed the problem as the carb leaking fuel and flooding the engine. My question is, should I try and rebuild (assuming the previous owner set-up to manufacture specs.) or just purchase new professional rebuilt carb...I am no mechanic, and I have never rebuilt a carb before, however I am mechanically inclined. Appreciate any help / advise -- Thank you
 
rebuilding a carb is really not that difficult. I had never done it before but this spring I decided to try it. It only took me about two hours. I'm sure you could do it. But if the previous owner did it right, it shouldn't need rebuilt already. If you do decide to try it, make sure the choke is operating correctly.
 
[QUOTE if I turn off and re-start within a minute of shutdown engine restarts no problem. However, if I let the engine sit for more than a minute, difficult to start, typically taking 30+ seconds of cranking to get started, once going again no problems.][/QUOTE]

I would leave the carb alone for now. The fuel is probably boiling due to increased engine heat after shutdown. Do you run the blower while under way? You should. I opened the other blocked off half of the fresh air inlet and attached a hose to it and suspended it over the carb so it gets cooler air. Let it idle a few minutes after a hard run. When was the last time the impeller was replaced? More than 2 years ago is too long.
 
I do not run the blower while underway, and I just changedthe impeller this season, about two weeks ago. When I purchased the boat I wastold it was not done for 2+ years, so that was on my list for immediate replacement.
 
Welcome aboard !

how to run a crabed motor

How you running it ?

This is how i run a carbed motor. Cold i pump the throttle 2-3 times leave the throttle down 1/3 of the way and crank it. It starts i leave the throttle alone should run at about 1000-1500 rpm. Choke opens you hear the motor change, put the throttle in neutral for another minute or 2.

Then i slowly give throttle till i'm at say 300-3500 rpm i run 2/3 wot.

I want to stop i slowly back off the throttle till i come to a stop put throttle in neutral and allow the motor to run at least 4-5 minutes at idle.

Shut off motor. Say i want to start after 30 minutes i try it in neutral no pumping nothing, crank it should start.

No start then a pump or 2 and back into neutral and crank no start then it's 1/3 down the throttle as a cold start.

Why i just write all this cause the idle at warm up and idle before shut down
 
chiefalen said:
Welcome aboard !

how to run a crabed motor

How you running it ?

This is how i run a carbed motor. Cold i pump the throttle 2-3 times leave the throttle down 1/3 of the way and crank it. It starts i leave the throttle alone should run at about 1000-1500 rpm. Choke opens you hear the motor change, put the throttle in neutral for another minute or 2.

Then i slowly give throttle till i'm at say 300-3500 rpm i run 2/3 wot.

I want to stop i slowly back off the throttle till i come to a stop put throttle in neutral and allow the motor to run at least 4-5 minutes at idle.

Shut off motor. Say i want to start after 30 minutes i try it in neutral no pumping nothing, crank it should start.

No start then a pump or 2 and back into neutral and crank no start then it's 1/3 down the throttle as a cold start.

Why i just write all this cause the idle at warm up and idle before shut down
Click to expand...

WTF is a "CRABED MOTOR"



Unrelated to his problem, 4 cylinders act differently than a V8....................He CLEARLY STATES THAT IT IS A CARB RELATED ISSUE NOT A OPERATION ISSUE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I can run mine as hard as I want, pull it into neutral and shut it down right away........Hit the key and it starts right up. whether I wait or not.

If it does not start correctly after original cold start (after warm up) there is a problem and most likley not related to HOW it is started.

AGAIN HE CLEARLY STATES A CARB PROBLEM!
 
After reading several posts regarding difficult starting issues, if have tried various combinations of starting techniques…Both cold and hot… What I have found that seems to work the best. Cold start, no pumping…I place the throttle little forward, turn the key and start right up no problems or hesitation. If I shut down and restart immediately, I leave in neutral and start right up no problems. The problem is after I shut down for a longer period of time, 5, 10, 30, 60 minutes…Difficult to restart, and smell of gas. Also I notice there is black on transom, under ski platform. I assume from the flooding situation.

Is it worth trying to rebuild myself, or just purchase one from someone else. The carb number I have is 06082A-1, is this common for these, do they have float problems?

Thank you for all your help!
 
Rebuilding a 2 BBL carb is rather easy. A 4 BBL is a little more work. It is important to me to use Mercury parts especially the base gasket. A Mercury single mixture screw 2 BBL requires a thicker base gasket than other carbs in order to atomize the fuel. Use a thin gasket and you'll be there forever trying to get the mixture right. It may run but not as good as w/the thick gasket.

Use a digital camera and snap photos as you disassemble the carb. The paint will peel off if you soak the whole carb. Make sure the idle circuits get clean and dry the carb w/compressed air. Follow the directions in the manual. I always use the carb setting specs. from a manual and not the chart that comes in the carb kit. I replace the accellerator pump and the float if it is heavy w/each rebuild. Set the mixture screw CCW 1.25 turns out from all the way in. Don't screw it in tight or the needle will be damaged. Also be careful w/the float needle valve tip. It is easily damaged and won't seal properly. Replace the plugs if it needs them; cheap insurance. Check the engine timing and condition of the other ignition components. Good luck.
 
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