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Damage under impellar plate found.

newyota

Regular Contributor
Pulled lower to check/replace impellar on my project Skitwin.Lifted the plate impellar rests on and found the cracked/bent piece of casting.I was not pumping water so until I get a new impellar I was wondering if this would cause any kind of pumping issue?I would be afraid to try and bend it back since it is cracked along the length of it as well as where it is separated. skitwin water flow#2.jpgskitwin water pump flow#1.jpg
 
Common result of water trapped in the little pocket and freezing. No problem, break out the loose piece and get on with life.
 
Common result of water trapped in the little pocket and freezing. No problem, break out the loose piece and get on with life.
Thank you..Will do.now my next issue.No water flow thru motor.Tried a flush with a hose on copper pick up and nothing coming out port on back of leg.Can't find a upper grommet to suspect in parts diagram.No thermostat on this old motor.
 
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Are you saying no water will go through at all, or are you saying it is going somewhere but not out the port in the rear? Truthfully, I'm not so sure it will come out the rear when not running (no exhaust). But can't say I really know, or have even tried it.

No upper grommet is used.
 
Are you saying no water will go through at all, or are you saying it is going somewhere but not out the port in the rear? Truthfully, I'm not so sure it will come out the rear when not running (no exhaust). But can't say I really know, or have even tried it.

No upper grommet is used.
Correct no water at all.Only squirts out the pre drilled hole half way up copper tube.I have seen where people have ran a hose on these and water came out blubber hole.Something up or in there blocked?
 
If it is completely blocked (very rare) then you have to start taking it apart. Personally, I'd folow the water path. That means pull the powrhead first, then the exhaust covers, then the cylinder head----only as required.
 
If it is completely blocked (very rare) then you have to start taking it apart. Personally, I'd folow the water path. That means pull the powrhead first, then the exhaust covers, then the cylinder head----only as required.
Thanks..I shot air up the blubber hole and could hear air somewhere coming up inside the leg so not sure where the air is coming thru?Since the lower unit is not air tight where it joins the leg I had shot air in the blubber while it was in the barrel and air bubbles came out of the seam where they are joined.
 
The only test you have made that means anything was putting a hose to the water tube. And you are telling us that it wouldn't go through. All that other stuff is meaningless because the water is mixed with the exhaust after it leaves the powerhead.
 
Yes..It would NOT go through at all.Comes out the small hole half way up tube with the hose on it. Considering my lack of experience I am just trying different things.Figured I had an Impellar issue at first,but since this was a salt water motor it probably wasn't flushed properly like most and it sat for years before I got it so it has some blockage up in the engine somewhere for sure.Have to start taking things apart like you suggested.thanks.
 
Good luck getting that 40 year old salt water motor apart.
Thanks for the words of encouragement.But my "50" year old motor hopefully will not have to come apart now.Ran a coat hanger up the tube all the way and put the hose to it again and got a great flow out the blubber now.Yes I know there may be something still in there, but I can look into a tear down another time if there is an issue.Not sure if it was the hanger since I felt no resistence when I put it up there or some water made it to the exhaust housing and softened something up, but it is clear now for good hopefully.Will flush it some more and see what it does and keep an eye on it.This has been a motor of learning not one I had to get running today, but for future use.
 
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