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Crusader - No Volts

D

Darrel FL

New member
Been fighting a gremlin for a year. When I turn the key nothing happens (No Guages, No Clicking, No Cranking). First time checked the battery terminals and it started. The next time that didn't work - Replaced the solenoid and it started. Then it did it again but the next day it started. This time I pulled the started - OK, the Solenoid Tested ok, voltages seem right at key (Power 13+) turn key (13+) try to crank and voltage drops to less then 1 Volt and doesn't recover. Switched batteries (Two engines) no luck - Thinking it might be the ignition switch - Anyone other suggestions
 
Obviously, you're losing a bunch of volts between the battery to the ignition switch and back to the motor. I fought this nightmare myself for 5 years (changing everything in sight) before a buddy suggested what has become the 100 %, no more BS fix: A relay.

I simply mounted a relay at the motor that engages the starter soleniod. It takes 12 volts off the nearby battery cable (to the solenoid). The 'signal' (from the ignition switch) energizes the solenoid (which takes very little votage to do). The relay then pulls in the solenoid and away we go! Works every time.

What you'll need is two (for spare parts) Bosch 12 volt DC relays and the connector plugs. (I buy mine from eBay at under 10 bucks).

Jeff

PS: I recently installed another relay to power the igniton, wich was also being cheated on voltage. That motor hadsn't run this way in a loooong time. PLan to do the other oen the same way.
 

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A slave solenoid, as Jeff suggests, may help but given the magnitude of the voltage drop, I'd suspect battery cables - especially the ground cable...where did you place the ground of the voltmeter when you made the measurements?

The engine harness connection is another likely candidate.
 
Soon I will tackle my electrical issues. Can somebody tell me the correct way to track down weak volts issues. I'm thinking to do things the unscientific way and keep remove connection, clean, sand, and reconnect with dielectric grease. I have a multi meter and can check for continuity but how to know if the connection can carry a healthy load?


Sorry if I'm hijacking the thread but the newbie details I have to ask.
 
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