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Crusader info

pandion

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"I recenlty purchased a 68 Fai

"I recenlty purchased a 68 Fairliner with twin Crusader 250's. Does anyone know; A) Are those 327's? B) Any advice on maintenance: Oil type, maintenance tips etc. C) Where to find owners/maintenance manuals. I'm an engine neophyte looking to gain some confidence."
 
"any serial numbers???

To s


"any serial numbers???

To start, I'd go to the local library and get a look at what they had (or can get) regarding the maintenance manuals - aftermarket type are ok. That should provide enough to get your going. Then ask questions, focus on one area at a time."
 
"After reading some of these p

"After reading some of these posts, I'm going to try & locate the numbers on the engine to confirm what I have. The thing that confuses me is that MarineEngine.com has manuals for Crusader 327's up to 66, then in 67 through 80 the don't show a 327 as an option. They jump from 307 to 350? But then the HP ratings don't make sense. I'm wondering if I have engines built in 66 installed new in 68?"
 
"the timing makes sense....196

"the timing makes sense....1969 (+/-) was the last production year for the street. quite likely, due to the 'small' marine market, that GM didn't offer to supply them in '68.

Very possiblethat your engines preceed your hull.

didn't see any specifics on the HP values...

Once you get the SN, you might try crusader directly...it never hurts to ask: http://www.crusaderengines.com/contact.asp"
 
On the engine block usually on

On the engine block usually on the left side (looking from stern to bow)just above the bell housing and below the head will be a casting number 6 or 7. Go to Mortec.com and look for your number. It will identify the block. you can do the same for the heads and other parts.
 
"I found the numbers & loc

"I found the numbers & located them on Mortec's site, problem is they use the same numbers for 305,327, & 350. Any advice as to where to look now?
It seems, since the 305 is rated at 180hp, & the 350 is rated at 270hp (I believe) that the 327 would be the 250hp, which is what's labeled on my engine. And if it is, does it matter what year it is when I need parts; because again, Mortec's site shows no 327 option for my year of boat?"
 
"305,327, and 350's are al

"305,327, and 350's are all the same except the bore and stroke. Any part that bolts on to a 305 will bolt on to a 350. Plugs/ignition and carburation are all the same. Water pumps,alternators, etc... will all bolt on. Try and find a serial number. Usually on a plate in front and below the right head (if viewed from the rear).."
 
Googling your Fairliner 250&#3

Googling your Fairliner 250's are mentioned as 327's. Delco MR43T plugs will work fine. Oil Id use Valvoline straight 40w.
 
"morning guys,
was wondering


"morning guys,
was wondering if anyone out there knows where to get a diagram of the cooling system for a 1978 crusader 350cu chevy w/ velvet drive?? 34' silverton / twins. over heating problem at higher rpms"
 
"Welcome mike.

You should h


"Welcome mike.

You should have started a new post.....yes, committed the same sin a couple of times.

regarding your diagram, they really haven't changed much over the years, a 'newer' one is probably adequate. The parts have changed in some areas so be careful there. The big difference is determined by something you omitted - fresh water cooling or raw water cooling (heat exchanger or not)."
 
"Note on spark plugs. Older sm

"Note on spark plugs. Older small block chevys used gasketed spark plugs. The 14 mm taper seat plugs were first used in 1971. 1968 and older cylinder heads did not have any accessory mounting holes in the ends of the heads. 69 and 70 models had accessory holes but used gasket type spark plugs. Taper seat spark plugs will screw into gasket type spark plug hole but will have about 1 to 2 threads exposed in the combustion chamber, makes a glow plug under heavy load. Not good!"
 
"Hey Mike, just bought my silv

"Hey Mike, just bought my silverton and during sea trial, port engine overheated while at cruise, and cooled down back at taxing speed. A seasoned captain suggested mussel shale in the oil cooler causing a restriction, which after flushing, he was right, and engine runs normal temp now.
Bruce"
 
It seems like this overheating

It seems like this overheating situation eventually bites everyone in the butt...IS THERE a best way to isolate the condition without the usual trail and error of examining parts and pieces trying to eliminate the weak link?

I too have HAD those situations where at cruise speed she rises up in temp but backing down for 5 minutes brings it down. With me THAT problem was a U-Cooler.

I just think there should be a repeatable technique for quickly identifying a component problem. Anyone?
 
"Al:

If you find one, pls p


"Al:

If you find one, pls post it as I haven't found any economical and efficient way to do it yet. I think the addition of the IR temp gun along with my documented baseline will be the best way.

With the exception of a few incidents, most of my issues have been related to the cooler. I may have mentioned it previously; the bulk of those were tracable to lack of changing the zinc pencils on schedule.

A long time ago, I looked at putting water pressure gauges on the raw water side. Besides trying to figure out where to put them all, there was the plumbing/routing (was going to use the outboard style). As the hours accumulated, the lack of recurring issues caused the concept to be dismissed. Now that I'm in the chesapeake, vs the ocean, maybe things will change."
 
"I've been reading countle

"I've been reading countless problems/remedies in the past couple months and I am really sold on the infrared heat gun. It pinpointed the "hot" spot which was the oil cooler, the restriction was at the crossover between the vertical tubes. Pulled the discharge hose from the engine, removed the zink, hooked up a water hose, (need a hose clamp, another smaller rubber hose to reduce the big hose down to fit the water hose, or you WILL get wet) flushed it a few times into a bucket, reinstalled the zink, then reversed the procedure on the supply side of the heat exchanger, reaasemled the hoses, fired the engines, and test run again with good temps. The trash that was flushed looked like small fish scales, but the Capt. said it was muscle shale? Anyhow, the crossover is aparently too small for it to pass through or it just built up and then restricted the flow. ie: the boat sat still for about 6 months when I bought it, so that might have allowed time for buildup? Hope this helps.
Bruce"
 
"bruce:

did the stuff that


"bruce:

did the stuff that was flushed out have a grey-white color to it? Also, what was the condition of the zinc when you pulled it?"
 
It seemed to be transparent. J

It seemed to be transparent. Just little flakes. Zink was new I think. About 1 1/2 inches long pencil size in good cond.
Bruce
 
I'm trying to find engine

I'm trying to find engine mounts for crusader engines ch270. serial# p-64257 s-64268.To be installed in a 1987 Silverton conv.}
 
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