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Crusader 454 timing cover

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Erich123

New member
Last June I replaced the crankshaft/balancer timing cover seal and thought that that had corrected the oil leak, but it didn't. So now I plan to replace the timing cover, oil seal, and all gaskets. I ordered and received the new cover which comes with the crankshaft/balancer seal already installed, and all the other needed gaskets. Yesterday I removed the belts, balancer, water circulating pump, sea-water pump and brackets. I then removed the old timing cover, cutting off the old gasket between the timing cover and oil pan as directed in the Crusader manual.

Here are my questions and concerns.
Should I use some black RTV sealant on both sides of the semi-circle bottom gasket, i.e. between the cover and gasket and also between the gasket and the oil pan?

What about using sealant on the other gasket between the cover and the block?

And what about the water pump to block gaskets? Dry or with some sealant?

Any and all suggestions welcome!

Erich
 
Erich123 said:
Should I use some black RTV sealant on both sides of the semi-circle bottom gasket, i.e. between the cover and gasket and also between the gasket and the oil pan?

What about using sealant on the other gasket between the cover and the block?

And what about the water pump to block gaskets? Dry or with some sealant?

Any and all suggestions welcome!

Erich
Click to expand...


Ultra black or ultra copper on the semi-circle as you indicate. Very important if you are attaching a sand casted oil pan, which is rough in this area.

I use permatex #3/aviation seal for the thin water pump and timing chain gaskets.

Also, how smooth is the dampener seal surface? There are rebuild kits for these, well worth the $.
 
Dave,

I installed a sleeve on the dampener last June when I replaced just that circular seal...so that is still nice and smooth.

Thanks for info about the other sealants to use.

Erich
 
Don't get carried away with the sealant. Be sure to seal the base of the cover where it mates with the oil pan and also remember the balancer bolt.
 
The threads of that bolt, also under the inside surface of the heavy flat washer need sealant, like the #3. No RTV here.
 
Erich123 said:
Dave,

Why? I am not doubting what you and Rick are saying but would like to know the reason for it.

Thanks,
Erich
Click to expand...


Oil could migrate up the keyway and cause a leak at the bolt washer. The threads actually do not need sealant, only the underside of the big washer.
There is a dampener install tool that is highly recommended and removes the requirement for a hammer. The sliding surface of the dampener and crank should be coated with engine oil to aid assembly, also.
85 lb-ft on the bolt, and also oil the seal surface and the seal itself.
One last thing. Make sure the dampener is flush with the end of the crank, otherwise the belts will not be aligned.
 
Last edited:
Dave,

OK...that makes sense about the large washer sealant. I already rented the installer tool from Autozone. Thanks for the explanation and additional info.

Erich
 
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