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crusader 454 shaft couplings

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Mike29

Contributing Member
Folks...I'm at my wits end with the 1 3/8" shaft couplings on my boat...its tight to work on them...I'v tried everything...PB blaster in the holes ...heat with a socket in between them pinched with longer bolts. I used my propane torch to heat with and kept heat just above comfortable to touch...do I need to get them hotter...maybe use a mapp torch? I really don't want to cut them off. I'm trying to change the shaft log hose out ....the yard mechanic says they still look good and arent cracked but gee wiz they been on the boat for 23 years. If I have to cut the coupling off by splitting it over the keyway Can I source just the shaft half? Where? Thanks for any help.
 
Is this a straight drive? I'm asking because you said "shaft half"....

MAPP gas is a lot hotter than propane and if you're replacing the stuffing box hose than you really have nothing to lose. I did the same thing when I bought my boat which is around the same age as yours. Fortunately mine came off w/o a fight. The other thing you might be able to try is some strategic grinding on the coupler.

I'm sure the coupling is available and that should be cheap. The shaft is where the money is so obviously you want to save that.

Bob
 
Bob,
Yes straight drive. I asked about the half because I don't want to yank the one from the trans. I'll try mapp gas tomorrow. Its really tight in there. I have a new fuel tank going in on this side so not in the way but the port side its still in place. Makes me nervous working right on top the aux tanks like that. I have a die grinder and could be thru it in a matter of a few minutes with a radiac wheel. I'm guessing these are Alqonquin manufactured couplings from what I hae found so far...thanks for response!
 
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You need a "shaft-sucker" It's a long slide hammer that couples on the prop nut threads. I've had to also use the socket up front to help it get started.
 
Mike:

You can buy just the shaft side of the coupling. I would suggest paying a bit more and get a "split coupling" vs a solid coupling.

If you are just using a propane torch, you are "pissing into the wind". You'll need a real touch to get it hot enough to make any progress. The other option is an air compressor and a die grinder with a cut off wheel...believe me, it will take you more than a few minutes! Also, prepare the "downstream" side of the wheel's discharge to catch all the cutting byproducts - disposable drop clothes would be ideal. any yes, split it over the key to save the shaft.
 
Why change it? The yard mechanic says they still looks good and arent cracked. Its a hose that isnt exposed lots of heat,sunlight or pressure. I cant recall ever hearing of one fail. Sure if you rip out a strut you might tear one. You tried. Why damage a good coupling possably the $haft.
Just my .02
lou
 
i'd say most yards slit them with an angle grinder and thin metal cutting blade. expect two cuts 180 deg apart. Second way is to use a couple 3/8" bolts and a socket or two between the xmission flange and the shaft coupler. THe socket pushes the shaft out when you tighten the bolts. Third way is the do the slide hammer trick or even just slam the prop backward, forcing the coupler into the stuffing box. These are listed in order of effectiveness. I don't see how heat works unless you have a puller on the coupler when heat is applied.
 
Dave...the socket setup is what I tried..I kept pressure on and then applied the heat from the propane torch. It's raining here today so might not get to work on her till this weekend. I plan on getting the mapgas torch ..if that doesnt work I'll probably just repack the stuffing box with goretex and call it a day till next haulout. This was a freshwater boat and the couplings do not look like they should be this tight. Hardly any corrosion at all. They must have an interference fit from the factory. Just wanted to change out the shaft log hose as I am replaceing all engine coolant hoses also.
 
The log hoses should last some 20 years, if they are the real deal (thick). They don't get the hot water treatment, nor pressure.
 
Yeah these are the really thick Buck Alqonquins with the huge clamps. They arent cracked ...just look old. I just wanted to say thanks to you and the others for your input. Read a lot of your posts here and you are a valuable contributor. This is my fist slip boat...I spent most of my career as a machinist-nuclear maint. tech and I can usually figure a lot of this stuff out but its always good to hear from the experienced folk about unfamiliar issues.
 
I've taken two small same seized ballpeen hammers and simultaneously tapped the part bolt or what ever I want to loosen apparently I creates a type of shock vibration and it takes a few minutes good luck
 
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