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Crusader 350

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Gthompson125

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OK, having a problem with Crusader 350. Over the weekend went out fishing. Both engines started up no problem got to the fishing grounds, which is about half hour of run time. While drifting with the engines in neutral the port engine shut down and would not start until it cooled down. The engine has a Mallory magnetic breakerless ignition. Engine finally started, but did the same thing coming into the dock put on new distributor cap and rotor new coil and new resistor. Even after that engine still hard to start, but will start right up if I jump the resistor.
Any thoughts?
 
Was the mallry breaker less module factory installed??

How many wires are connected to the + side of the coil?
 
I will have to check later today when I get back down there, but I know there’s two on the negative side of the coil and I’m not sure if the Mallory was factory installed. I just purchased the boat the end of last year, they were new engines in 2017/18.
 
If the breakerless modules were added "later", its possible they weren't wired up optimally...

Would also be good to have the engine serial numbers...also be nice to know what the replacement engines are and their origins...
 
When I get down there later this afternoon, I’ll take some pictures and get serial numbers of the engines. What I was told the gentleman that had it prior to me had a bunch of work done on the boat. Engines, transmissions, new shafts, Rutters props, fuel tanks, unfortunately for him, he didn’t get to enjoy it too much because of his passing.
Strange thing is starboard engine is running flawlessly.
 
OK was down at the boat and now the only way to get the engine started is to jump the external resistor. Did an ohms test on the resistor and coil everything checked out I’m getting spark at the coil even put a new coil in just to sure. Just wondering if anybody has any knowledge of these Mallory magnetic breaker list ignitions, how often do they go bad. Just wondering if I should swap the component with the starboard engine to see if it follows. especially before I spend $150-$170 for a new one.
 
Then they pulled the jumper from the starter...

Have you checked the voltage at the coil while cranking and with the engine running?

Thinking the breaker less module may not have been wired optimally...that question is which end of the ballast resitor is the red wire going to the n breaker less module go to??

The other thing it could be is the ignition switch...any idea how old it is?? Is the switch exposed to the elements??
 
You might be onto something about the key switch. I took a quick peek under the dash and looks pretty old and crusty. I noticed the other one had been replaced. So I’ll pick one up today or tomorrow and in the meantime, take some measurements of voltage on cranking and at idle. What should I be looking for at cranking at the coil 12 V? And how about at idle?
 
good idea on the switch....especially since the other one (no problem) has been changed.

On the voltage at the + terminal of the coil - depends upon how it is wired...typically, one will see 9-10 VDC with the engine running...with it cranking, it may dip a little lower - depends upon the condition of the battery and the wiring (to the battery and the switch). I will dig into the library and see if there is a min value for the module to work reliably..

I think you want to check the RED wire going into the distributor feeding the breakerless module. ideally, it should be on the switch side of the ballast resistor, not the COIL side. many people make that connection to the coil side....

Another thing you can do is to check the gap between the reluctor wheel and the pickup - going from memory, 0.010" is the max.
 
If you understand how things work, you can do a test to bypass the ignition switch with a fused jumper...

The other thing that comes to mind is the 8 or 10 pin harness connector...usually best to separate the halves and give it a good inspection with a bright flashlight...if any corrosion detected, it needs to be removed. I use nyogel 760 on the contacts and then tape the joint to keep stuff out...
 
OK, I think I’m finally onto something. I definitely don’t have enough voltage getting to the coil (under 4 volts)to fire it up. My question is where does the voltage come from to the resistor, does it come from the starter?
 
the voltage at the coil starts at the battery...the normal path is thru the cirsuit breaker to the ignition switch, back to the ballast resistor and then to the coil + terminal.

During starting, the alternate path is from the battery, thru the starter's solenoid (R terminal) direct to the + terminal, bypassing the ballast and the key switch...
 
OK, I believe that makes sense to me if I put a voltmeter to + side of the coil and ground to the block should I get 12 V or somewhere around nine from what I’ve read with the Mallory ignition
 
OK, I believe that makes sense to me if I put a voltmeter to + side of the coil and ground to the block should I get 12 V or somewhere around nine from what I’ve read with the Mallory ignition
Of course I’m trying to do this in 101° weather with 95% humidity😂
Somebody told me a long time ago things break when it’s either butt cold or extremely hot out. I think he was right.
 
here are the testing procedures with values, straight from the horse's mouth...keeps my ancient memory from generating rabbit holes...

:D
 

Attachments

  • mallory magnetic breakerless troubleshooting.pdf
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Thank you, going to try it first thing tomorrow morning since I have the day off to really get into it since the weather supposed to be bearable and not a ton of humidity. I’ll keep you posted on how I make out.
 
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