Logo
FULL SITE MENU

Crusader 220 Raw water pump

C

chriscraftcat

Member
On my starboard engine the raw water pump does not pump the water out. A few days ago I opened the pump and checked the impeller and it looks like new. I put it back together and checked the pressure by hand and it seems to push the water out (maybe). I also tested the flow from the inlet, cleaned strainer basket with muratic acid, and then separated the hose from strainer going to pump and then performed the pump test with water from garden hose. The pump works fine, but I then realized that gravity with elevated hose makes it work OK. When reconnected there is no suction by the pump. What essential parts cause this problem? Is it the plate, wore out bushing, bearing or seal, or shaft, or all of them (impeller is only 6 months old - rarely used)?
Can the body be salvaged and totally new kit used?
Chris Craft Cat
 
The impeller must be correct for the pump body... both in diameter and depth. The thrust surfaces must also be in good condition, as well as the impeller cam.

Is it possible that you have reversed the inlet/outlet hoses?

Or..............

Is this a belt driven Sherwood by chance?
If so, the Sherwood is bi-directional, and can be mounted either way...... but the pump body must be oriented correctly for the engine rotation.

First and second images show the correct orientation for a Std LH rotation engine.... third image is for a REV RH rotation engine.

(suction being at the lower inlet..... supply being at the upper outlet)
 

Attachments

  • Sherwood impeller Direction LH.jpg
    Sherwood impeller Direction LH.jpg
    13.2 KB · Views: 247
  • Sherwood pump for LH engine.jpg
    Sherwood pump for LH engine.jpg
    3.3 KB · Views: 727
  • Sherwood pump for RH engine.jpg
    Sherwood pump for RH engine.jpg
    3.3 KB · Views: 732
Last edited:
Rick, thanks for your comments. The hoses are not reversed, they can only go as molded to inlet (from Strainer) and outlet (thru Tran. Coolant). It is a belt driven pump and it can only be mounted one way with pulley up front. This is E-35 pump, not the one shown in your thread. My fear is that the plate is wore out and the pump cavitates drawing no suction. I'll take it out and apart again tomorrow and let you know.
Thanks
Chriscraftcat
 
Precisionally measure the depth of the impeller cavity of the pump body. A dial indicator caliper works well.

Compare this depth to your new impeller depth or width.

The impeller depth (or width) will be slightly greater than the pumps cavity depth... perhaps .010" to .012" or so.
This ensures a seal at both thrust surfaces.

If you are tired and fed up with the belt driven sea water pump blues, consider a crankshaft pump.
For the cost of one E-35 pump, you can buy two brand new Johnson F5B-9 pumps, plus a good hamburger, fries and a drink.

JOP10242281-LRG.JPG


No more belt tension side load tugging against the shaft bearings, and no more difficult impeller access.

The only caveat is that you must have enough space in front of the engine crankshaft in order to mount these.



.
 
Last edited:
you need to test the pump with the normal raw water source, not a garden hose...

As noted above, any wear in any of the listed parts may cause performance issues...any the impeller needs to be installed (rotated) correctly...

Normal service procedure calls for inspecting all of the wear parts, not just replacing the impeller.
 
Back
Top