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JoeLansing

JoeLansing

New member
Sorry if this is long, or already covered. I know nothing beyond 15 HP outboards, and the most I've done on them is impeller change. Bought a 96 Sea Ray 175BR for $3200. Took it out today and it it starts, then dies unless given gas. It will idle around in gear fine. Does a lot better with the trim all the way down. Is this by design? Got it off the dock and when you give it throttle it dies fast. Did get it up to 38MPH once, so at least it isn't water logged :) I'm thinking old gas. I want to try dumping Seafoam into it and praying a lot. The air filter looks like trash, and was held on by like 2 threads using the wrong nut so it was very loose. Oil looks good. It only has 311 hours on it. It had 1/4 tank of gas, I added 1/4 tank more before I took it out. I want to dump Seafoam into it, fill it up and see if it gets better, but that is the extent of my knowledge. So any ideas from the great brains on here for a N00B? I have a lot of tools and YouTube :p Carb kit? Plugs? Under the air filter looks funny to me. Here's a couple of photos if this helps. TYVM for any ideas!
- Joe
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MEHSsBotlfCKPRIpEapAlvbu_CN_nI7Y/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MIg-Tk91h5clLEZP8dzO509RCVeQXWOR/view?usp=sharing
 
I'd delete this post, but I can't see how. It isn't engine related...:( Oh, and I'd like to get the old gas out of it. I found the tank, but not sure how to do it. I tried poking a Harbor Freight manual pump tube down from the fill hole, but there is something at the tank stopping the hose from going down into it. My wife wanted me to buy this thing, and even paid for it. She realizes now that she really wants a fishing boat. (she's from Philippines) I want to fix this up a bit if we do decide to resell it. I don't want to stick someone else with a turd. Since I paid so little for it, I have room to toss a few $$$ at it.
- Joe
 
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Use an electric pump and pump the gas out where the line attached to the fuel pump. That won't get it al out, but you can add a new gallon or two then pump it out as well.

Jeff
 
That is not an air filter, it is a spark arrestor. It prevents flames coming out in the event of a backfire. It should be held on with an aircraft locknut, the kind with the nylon insert.Take it off & clean it with varsol & a brush, not a metal one!
One of those wooden handle long bristle “parts brushes”, (Toothbrush works in a bind), then use your air compressor to blow out all the crud. There should not be anything between those thin vanes.
if you are really lucky, draining the old gas might solve the problems, but I would test compression, look at the plugs, test the ignition plug & distributor wires for leakage.
There might be a sintered filter in the fuel line, right where it bolts onto the carb.
I had one of those inline 4 banger engines years ago, they are fairly robust, & easy to work on.
 
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Thank you guys! I will clean up the spark arrestor. I will go look up which one of the 2 lines going into the carb is gas and get the old gas out. And I see the plugs are easy to get to, so if they look dirty at all I will replace them. I guess I should see if it has a fuel filter on it someplace. It's also got a slow gear oil leak out of one of the lower weep holes when running. So I got an impeller kit, lower gasket kit, and pump base to try and remedy that. Fun stuff! The trim switch only goes down (but the other big UP ONLY one works), so I suspect it is a wire or the switch. I found a #14 service manual online. Actually a zip file of 35 different ones. Is it legal to share those on my Google Drive? I've been doing computer stuff for 30 years. If I can help you with those send me a PM?

Thank you!
- Joe
 
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Disconnect the fuel hose from the tank to pump and hook ul a six gallon outboard tank of clean fresh gas.

i suspect cleaning out the fuelsystem , replacing cap rotor plugs and a carb rebuild are in order
 
I cleaned out the spark arrester with carb cleaner and an air compressor. I found the correct stainless nut for the top of it at Lowes. I put in a new impeller and the seal below that. I pumped the old gas out by removing the float/gauge thing from the tank, then out that hole. I pulled the prop off for doing the impeller change, and behind the prop looks like concrete. I'm starting to think this has never had anything done with it as far as maintenance. Do I chip this junk off? Lime away? What is it? The out drives I see on YouTube don't look like this :)
- Joe

behind-prop.jpg
 
JoeLansing said:
I cleaned out the spark arrester with carb cleaner and an air compressor. I found the correct stainless nut for the top of it at Lowes. I put in a new impeller and the seal below that. I pumped the old gas out by removing the float/gauge thing from the tank, then out that hole. I pulled the prop off for doing the impeller change, and behind the prop looks like concrete. I'm starting to think this has never had anything done with it as far as maintenance. Do I chip this junk off? Lime away? What is it? The out drives I see on YouTube don't look like this :)
- Joe

View attachment 26937
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thats you anode remove the two bolts and replace it. Go to boat zincs.com depending on if you are fresh salt or brackish you may need a different material. There are i think five in places on the drive. They corrodes instead of your drive ...
 
Dieter said:
thats you anode remove the two bolts and replace it. Go to boat zincs.com depending on if you are fresh salt or brackish you may need a different material. There are i think five in places on the drive. They corrodes instead of your drive ...
Click to expand...

Thank you! That explains a lot. I didn't know there was more than just one anode on the rear of motors, then I saw what looks like a crusted one on the front of this Mercruiser also, and now a 3rd. Score! https://www.boatzincs.com/alpha-one-gen2-alum-kit.html Ordered the set and I just learned there are different types. I got aluminum for fresh water.
 
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I ended up getting Magnesium anodes because I'm only in Michigan freshwater. Next issue. I was putting the water pump back together, and noticed I was missing the black tube that sticks up. So I go look up into the motor where it came out of and see this. My missing black tube looking kinda beat up, and a swashed to death yellow tube behind it. This isn't to spec is it? Did someone try and put 2 of them in there? Also, a square black plate that wasn't hooked to anything fell out. I'm sure glad I still have my old 14' Meyer with 9.8 2016 Tohatsu for fishing.
Photo of above my water pump https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Pk3dwL-gH5N73o53RRxxsRxaucXwyh7x/view?usp=sharing
Photo of square plate. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PqJY4r7Y4w87IAj-eLdag-JAYVlD7K5P/view?usp=sharing

- Joe
 
the tubes are melted, at some point this unit was cooked. if it is fine now, dont sweat it, the plate goes in the upper section across, left to right, just behind the water tube.
as for the fuel system, pulling the float was definetly the right move, get it all out, if the engine is still having trouble idling or accelerating, the casrb shoud be rebuilt, i do about 15 carbs a season due to engines that sit longer than a season with old gas in them.
good luck, sounds like you are making progress.
 
Thank you. I'm good at fixing stuff, and have a lot of tools. But never had anything like this. I'm leaning on you guys, hope you don't mind. I ordered a new black tube for the top of the water pump. As for the old junk, just pull out the yellow and black ones and toss them? I was worred that melted yellow thing was another part to buy. My wife bought this boat (with my ok) and today I spent $50 on it. Yesterday was $30, on and on. Battery, part kits, sealents, etc. I already knew what BOAT stands from just owning small ones over the years. Now she is learning also. At least we only paid $3200 and it's NADA at 6K :) Right now I'm trying to get it fixed enough take it out again. See if my gas replacement, spark arrester cleaning, new plugs, and a lot of Seafoam makes it run slightly faster than idle on the water without dying. It had a 2016 sticker, then a 2023 over that. So it sat for a while before the last guy bought it. He said he was tired of messing with it. But from what I can see, he bought it last year (2023 sticker), and didn't do anything with it! My turn at getting it going. I'm learning a lot, mostly thanks to you.
- Joe
 
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Old boats can be money pits, but sometimes owners just don’t have any idea about proper maintenance, or simple things to get a problematic engine running smooth.
it seems you are going about it in a logical way. Too many just throw parts, ($$$), but without logical troubleshooting, miss the small things that would solve their problem.
Probably the best $ you can spend is a FACTORY service manual.
keep on solving the issues, keep us posted on your results.
There are several VERY experienced techs here who want to see you succeed. It’s a great thing in today’s throw away world to return a legacy engine to fine service.
 
Edchris177 said:
Old boats can be money pits, but sometimes owners just don’t have any idea about proper maintenance, or simple things to get a problematic engine running smooth.
it seems you are going about it in a logical way. Too many just throw parts, ($$$), but without logical troubleshooting, miss the small things that would solve their problem.
Probably the best $ you can spend is a FACTORY service manual.
keep on solving the issues, keep us posted on your results.
There are several VERY experienced techs here who want to see you succeed. It’s a great thing in today’s throw away world to return a legacy engine to fine service.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I found a zip file floating around with 35 service manuals in it. Mine seems to be 90‑818177‑3. I'm starting with simple fixes first, then testing. The problem is I can't take it out to test it until I fix all the other issues I'm finding along the way. I told the wife I'll be happy if I manage to get it all fixed up before summer ends. I had high hopes at first. I'm setting my sights low now to avoid further disappointment. I haven't bought any new parts yet today. I should go test the bilge..:)
- Joe
 
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Ok, so I bought the black tube that goes on top of the water pump, and the other light colored one on top of it that were both all melted. When I slide the light colored top one Mercruiser 23-816583 over the slighty bent copper? tube I pulled the melted one off of, it doesn't seem like it has any way of sealing or centering at the top. It's just loose. It fits into the black tube that comes off the top of the water pump just fine. Is this a problem? At this point I'm both scared and excited. I have all the parts I need to maybe fix this thing, but I'm also expecting my next issue to show up :) I like need to donate here or something. Is that a thing?
- Joe
 
the tube fits into the black adaptor tightly, the white tube just floats aroung the copper pipe, its a guide to lign the copper pipe up with the black adaptor, make sure there are o rings inside the blaco adaptor since it is new, some do not come with them installed.

also , take a look at the copper pipe closely, make sure it is not corroded where it goes into the upper section. i have run into that a few times this year. the replacements are plastic.
 
I got that figured out. I ended up getting both tubes, and a different impeller kit that included the housing. I went to change the fuel filter, and found an original ceramic 1996 crusty mess that doesn't clean up well, so I have a new entire fuel pump coming in 2 days. I looked at a plug, and when I pulled it I found out the plug hole places are piles of rust powder. I wiped the plug off carefully then put it back in disturbing as little rust as possible. Then blew out clouds of rust off with my air compressor from all 4 holes. I think I'll WD40 around the holes, then spray it out good with air before attempting to change the plugs. I have 4 NGK 3623/BPR6EFS plugs waiting for my new distributor cap, wires, condenser/points/rotor to arrive on Friday. Fun times. But it already runs a lot better, and starts a lot better now that I read how to choke it, and push the no prop button on the throttle lever. :rolleyes: Am I getting into where I will need to buy a timing light? Do I want to go there? I want to fix this up as much as I can, but not sure about doing timing. Just dumping all the old gas and running Seafoam through it helped a lot.
- Joe
 
stang32 said:
the tube fits into the black adaptor tightly, the white tube just floats aroung the copper pipe, its a guide to lign the copper pipe up with the black adaptor, make sure there are o rings inside the blaco adaptor since it is new, some do not come with them installed. also , take a look at the copper pipe closely, make sure it is not corroded where it goes into the upper section. i have run into that a few times this year. the replacements are plastic.
Click to expand...

Too late. It's back together. The copper pipe was solid as far as I could tell. It pumps a lot of water out when on muffs now. I ended up getting both tubes, and a different impeller kit that included the housing. I went to change the fuel filter, and found an original ceramic 1996 crusty mess that doesn't clean up well, so I have a new entire fuel pump coming in 2 days. I looked at a plug, and when I pulled it I found out the plug hole places are piles of rust powder. I wiped the plug off carefully then put it back in disturbing as little rust as possible. Then blew out clouds of rust off with my air compressor from all 4 holes. I think I'll WD40 around the holes, then spray it out good with air before attempting to change the plugs. I have 4 NGK 3623/BPR6EFS plugs waiting for my new distributor cap, wires, condenser/points/rotor to arrive on Friday. Fun times. But it already runs a lot better, and starts a lot better now that I read how to choke it, and push the no prop button on the throttle lever. :rolleyes: Am I getting into where I will need to buy a timing light? Do I want to go there? I want to fix this up as much as I can, but not sure about doing timing. Just dumping all the old gas and running Seafoam through it helped a lot.
- Joe
 
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