Logo

Cool Fuel rebuild?

Tall Cotton

New member
I did a few searches and to no avail...
We had a rather harsh winter last year here in GA and as a result my Cool Fuel housing on my 2010 5.7 Scorpion split. I have bought a new housing (with a drain plug this time), some filters, o-rings and a new check valve. Two questions:
1. Does anybody have the torque spec for the screws holding down the pump cover? I really don't want to strip out a $400 housing but also want to make sure it doesn't leak.
2. Are there any other considerations/procedures/techniques I need to know when I hook it back up - for example: priming/other parts, ect?

Thanks
 
I did a few searches and to no avail...
We had a rather harsh winter last year here in GA and as a result my Cool Fuel housing on my 2010 5.7 Scorpion split. I have bought a new housing (with a drain plug this time), some filters, o-rings and a new check valve. Two questions:
1. Does anybody have the torque spec for the screws holding down the pump cover? I really don't want to strip out a $400 housing but also want to make sure it doesn't leak.
2. Are there any other considerations/procedures/techniques I need to know when I hook it back up - for example: priming/other parts, ect?

Thanks
No worries. I swapped everything over to the new housing, poured in a little fuel to help it prime up and it fired right up and passed the test drive perfectly. No leaks or sputters. Ready for summer!
Cheers!
 
I know of 3 people who have remove that and installed a electric fuel pump and plumbed the fuel thru a trans cooler. trans coolers have threaded fittings unlike
power steering coolers
 
Back
Top