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constant alarm still on

6262panfisher

New member
A constant warning alarm led me to find no water discharge on my 30hp. I have rebuilt water pump and ready to test in water barrel. When I power up with key (engine not running) I still get constant warning alarm. Don't want to fire up engine because I'm not sure what to make of it, any help? It's a older engine that runs pre-mix.
 
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Need model number of motor. Do you know if it has 3 wire horn or 2 wire? Did control box come with motor/boat combo? Turn key on & off rapidly to see if it will stop blowing. Sometimes the horns will latch on?
 
Need model number of motor. Do you know if it has 3 wire horn or 2 wire? Did control box come with motor/boat combo? Turn key on & off rapidly to see if it will stop blowing. Sometimes the horns will latch on?

Model # E30ELCOA, I don't know how many wires or if this was a package, bought used 3yrs. ago. I'll try rapid key movement, so probably not the alarm getting old and then cooked? I need to get a manual would help,but sure trouble shooting in manual wouldn't touch this topic. Thanks, I'll try key before breaking open box. Will the amount of wires be pertinent?
 
If this is the original control & horn then it would be a two wire horn. Those do not have the self test feature when you turn on the key. They do not have the habit of latching on. Have you unplugged the sensor on the head? The sensor is a simple grounding device. It goes to ground when an overheat occurs which then sounds the horn. If the sensor goes bad it is possible that it is grounded all the time? You are correct in that the motor has to at least warm up before it will blow the horn. It is best to trouble shoot the horn while the motor is cold. It is possible the horn is still at fault. You will be replacing the two wire with a 3 wire style that has the self test feature. Improvements have been made to stop the latching error. It is nice to have the test feature to know your horn is operational.
 
The temp switch is a snap disk and they only go bad from overheat conditions. You can try tapping on the head next to the switch but better off replacing the switch. Do a compression test also it usually takes multiple overheats to cause the seitch to fail and you should consider a new head gasket when you replace the switch?
 
First, big thanks to everyone for your help so far. The alarm does have self test, it sounds, goes off and then returns constant. I disconnected heat switch, which took care of alarm problem, tonked on head near it but no change. So I might as well order new heat switch, gasket, and thermostat while I'm at it, I guess. Fired engine for about 10sec. and no water from flow indicator. A friend suggested using a air hose to try and clean it out but if I have to tear it apart, probably doesn't make sense. Any thoughts would be much appreciated.
 
Make sure the fitting at the lower pan (telltale) plastic hole is not blocked with something? Mud, small peeble. Also check the screw in fitting on the exhaust cover. 90* fitting can get dirt in it & block water flow. If not that you may have a water pump problem. You are going to be looking at the thermostat, etc with the head cover off.
 
I'll check your suggestions, thanks. Yes on the thermostat, if I'm in there I'll do a visual and probably put it in a pan of water on stove with a thermometer. Thanks again! Oh yeah, I did check that nipple for visual check on water flow, it's o.k.. Really surprised how tiny that is
 
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