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"Coni" seals?

B

bobct

Advanced Contributor
Still battling the erractic Flo-scan issue on one side. I talked to Flo-scan again and walked through my setup. I have copper lines from my tank to the x-over valve and then flex lines which I made up. He said very high likelyhood that the copper connections are the cause because...

he asked if I had conical seals or "coni" seals installed on the copper fittings. Do you guys know what those are? He said I should be able to get them at any good auto parts store.

I though the flex/copper connections were just a compression fit. I don't remember seeing any seals when I have taken the copper lines off before. The flex lines are SAE 45's.


Bob
 
The copper lines should use Flared, not compression, fittings.

Coni-Seal is an aftermarker brake parts maker...they may have some type of seal you can add...I sure their phone number is on their www site if you wanna go down that part.
 
Mark, you're correct, I meant flared. They normally don't have any seals do they? I don't recall seeing any but if it's something I can add, I'll give it a try.
 
Flared Copper connections normally don't have any "seals".

You may wanna call the tech at flo-scan and see if he can get you a part number or two - it can only expedite the time factor....another 'test' you may want to consider - if the thought is the fittings are leaking minutes amount of air while under low pressure - is to seal the fittings using maybe RTV. the idea is to apply something "air-tite" but easy to remove in case you need to service the fitting/tube. You could do one side for the 'experiment'.

Another option - which I haven't found to be cost effective - is to swap of 'old flare fittings' for something 'newer'. Aeroquip is one brand that comes to mind - look for AN or JIC styled fittings.

A third possibility - ditch the copper for some A-1 rated rubber line.
 
Mark, was thinking the same about the RTV. It might be good enough to test or maybe even a fix. I was thinking of replacing the copper over the winter along with the crossover valve but I thought that last year, never got to it and I'm now I'm on year two of a 1/2 functioning flo-scan :(

I used the aeroquip connectors and flex line from the Racors back to the fuel pumps. I can do that but it won't be until the spring until I can really test it and the cycle starts all over again.

I didn't think there were any seals. I will call them back and see what's up. I have the same flared copper lines for my steering and they weep a little if there is a seal that can be added, I'll definately do that. I don't want to replace those line, they're LONG and pretty buried.


Bob
 
I'll never use copper again. A few years back I had finished a restoration on a 1925 Henderson Deluxe motorcycle. The fuel line came down from the tank and made a 360 degree loop before feeding the carb (Zenith Updraft) After a 30 mile test ride, the copper cracked and dripped a fair quantity of fuel down my right leg and ignited. At 40 mph the flaming glow was amazing and then the line broke. Fortunately and catastrophic nightmare was avoided plus 2 years work and about $20k. I had to change to the steel lines used for brakes to keep it "proper" so copper paint and a for sale sign did the trick.

I can see why they use rubber or braided steel
 
From 1925! I think you're being a little hard on copper :)

I know what you mean, my boat isn't old enough where I have to worry about them failing like that but they do seem to be a common problem with the flo-scans.


Bob
 
HA HA...Bob, this was a restoration with brand new material. It just was NOT the right material to use and subsequently failed. That bike is in Switzerland right now in somebody else's collection. APPRECIATING $$$$$ BY THE DAY !
 
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