Confirming the VRO removal process for my engine

[n_e_t_o]

"Hi all,
On my boat, the warn

"Hi all,
On my boat, the warning buzzer does not sound when the key is first turned on, but does sound if I ground the temp sensor wires with the key on. The bottom line is, I don't trust my warning system, especially the VRO part. Hence, I have decided to get rid of the VRO system and just mix the oil/gas in the tank. That is not the only reason. We also run a 6hp kicker. Inside the boat is one of those old "oil mixer" contraptions, that when used, mixes the oil and gas to about 2:1 instead of 50:1, which fouls the plugs in short order. So, by just mixing the gas and oil in the main tank, we can run the kicker, without having a seperate external tank in the boat for it, which is what we have done the last few times using it. Whew. Now that I hope that I have justified the removal of the working VRO system, I just would like someone to confirm that this procedure will work for me. Feel free to add any steps that are left out, or any updates to the procedure.

Joe, I apologize in advance if this is improper, but I have cut and pasted your most recent post (January 08) on this subject that I could find. Please confirm that it is still valid.

(VRO Pump Conversion To Straight Fuel Pump)
(J. Reeves)

You can convert the VRO pump into a straight fuel pump, eliminating the oil tank and VRO pump warning system, but retain the overheat warning setup by doing the following:

1 - Cut and plug the oil line at the engine so that the oil side of the VRO pump will not draw air into its system. Trace the wires from the back of the VRO to its rubber plug (electrical plug) and disconnect it.

2 - Trace the two wires from the oil tank to the engine, disconnect those two wires, then remove them and the oil tank.

3 - Mix the 50/1 oil in the proper amount with whatever quantity fuel you have. Disconnect the fuel line at the engine. Pump the fuel primer bulb until fuel exits that hose with the tint of whatever oil you used. Reconnect the fuel hose.

That's it. If you want to test the heat warning system to ease your mind, have the key in the on position, then ground out the tan heat sensor wire that you'll find protruding from the cylinder head. The warning horn should sound off.


(End of Joe's instructions)}

Edit: Sorry, my outboard is a 1988 120 VRO Johnson Looper.


Thanks in advance!
Randy"

 

[joereeves]

"Randy..... If the above is wh

"Randy..... If the above is what you've done, then it sounds good to me.

The copy/paste thing..... that's fine with me just so the process is done in its entirety as you've done. Not a case of being vain or having a over inflated ego on my part, I just believe in that ole credit due saying."

 

[dcramer]

"Hi Randy,
It sounds like you

"Hi Randy,
It sounds like you've thought through the benefits and consequences of your plan pretty thoroughly.

The one thing I would do different is purchase the retrofit fuel pump kit. The oil side of the VRO doesn't like pumping against a vacuum. If you disconnect per Joe's instructions above, you can no longer count on the VRO to work properly if you get tired of mixing gas in the tank. The fuel pump retrofit kit is substantially less expensive than a VRO replacement in the event you change your mind.

Just food for thought.......
D"

 

[jwbmarine]

"m pro-and con w/all this.....

"m pro-and con w/all this........
first-----disc per joes instr has been done since the advent of the VRO......and seems to wk ok.........of which,...i do many.....
second,.......i AM w/dcramewr on the vacuum situation.......i have often wondered this myself in 31 yrs of J &E service.....
my basic advice,..i guess,.....is to do it like we always have per joes instr........
when,.......a prob arises,.......upgrade to the fuel pump only,........cuz it does last many yrs."