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chrysler 318 oil pan leak

K

KenC

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My father has a 28 ft Uniflite with twin chrysler 225 hp engines. One of them has developed a small hole in the oil pan. He was given a quote of 40 hours to pull the engine, replace pan and reinstall. That seems very high to me. Does anyone know about how long it should take for this type of job? thanks.
 
Ken - although I'm not familiar with that particular boat, the quote sounds insane to me. Changing the pan itself will take all of 30 minutes and can be done while the engine's still on the hook.....only a few feet out of the bilge.

The bulk of that project is in disconnecting/reconnecting the items required to lift it. Still.....that's not 40 hours of work.

My guess is that summer's in full swing and the marina/shop your old man's dealing with has enough work to keep them happy......so they've got nothing to loose by throwing out a crazy number. They probably don't expect (or even want) to do the job but, if they get it, they'll make out nicely.
 
I d consider drainin the oil and JB welding the hole or even some marine tex putty just wipe it with acetone to get the oil of and build it up so it grips around the surface of the hole.

$10 vs $4000
 
Agreed. Other than time and sweat, what have you got to loose? Be sure the oil isn't on the surface before hitting it with the J B. That may require removing the oil first.

Jeff
 
:D That's what I'm talking about!! Using your head for something besides a hat rack!! You guys are genius....great idea!

Now you guys deserve a visa card loaded with cash (gas money) for saving that guy a huge wad of dough :eek:
 
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That sounded cheezy to me when someone recommended it for my truck, but i cleaned it good, roughed up the bare metal good and jb,d it. a quick shot of engine enamel and it been leak free for many years now.
 
Oil pans are out of sight and hence the forming rust can not be seen. About every 26 weeks i rub and wipe my whole pan including the bolts with a rag to loosed anything that may be clinging. Then repeat the same process with a terry toweling rag saturated in canola oil. My boat is in a salt water environment. Not the easiest function to perform. But ! Hope this helps
 
I keep on barking about canola oil. Try soaking you new cast manifolds , risers and elbows in it. The oil soaks into the porous metal , then let drain , put in an oven and heat. Heat must be below the operating temp. Canola smoke point at arround 240 degrees C . I cover my engine mounts with it and any other unpainted metal. We have a marine product sold in Aust " Macs " Macsmarine.com. Have a look at what it does and the chemical composition. Non mineral oil base. Gardeners mix canola oil with water to make white oil and spray insects. It actually stops the insects from breathing. Cooking and gardening . What next ?
 
The scientific term is " oxidiation ". Even stainless steel oxides . The higher the nickel content in S/S the less the oxidation. Medical grade S/S is more resistant than 316 , marine grade. Was the oil pan aluminum ? If so, did they use marine grade aluminium ? Have you conducted the scientific test by placing a magnet on the oil pans surface ? If it did not oxidse, what made the hole ? For interest, search REDOX REACTION .
 
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