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choke not opening all the way

B

bobct

Advanced Contributor
linkage is free, and will open to fully vertical if I move it manually. Is this just a weak spring on the choke?

I left the divorced part on the block when I sent the carbs off to Cliff for testing.


Bob
 
Choke thermostat is going bad. I just went through the same thing. I couldn't bring myself to pay $50-$60 for the "crusader" choke thermostat so I took some time cross referencing and found the exact match at Carquest Auto parts for $10. Bought two.

Let me know if you want the part number.
 
that would be great, I'll change them both out. Divorced choke with Q-jets? If so, please post part # and I'll pick them up.

thanks
 
You may just need to lengthen the rod by bending it. You have to check the coil's movement to see if it is insufficient. Look at the link where the rod attaches to the carb and measure the travel when the choke is opened and closed. If the coil won't move the rod at least that much, time for a new coil.

I found out the 'auto parts' version is the same as the OEM's sell for marine....go figure, smae material, huge price delta.
 
Mark,

I checked them out today, there's not enough movement on one and the other is opening about 90%.

I think I'll just replace both of them. Do you happen to have a part # or make/model car that will work? Mine's an '89, I assume they're all the same.

Bob
 
Ct will have a great spring strip bass run this year. I'm across the way on the long island sound. How long will cliff have your carbs? I could never do that. I guess your not fishing...
 
Cliff "had" my carbs over the winter after I did the rebuild(s). No fishing yet, still waiting to get put in.
 
Bob:

I had a merc box and a standard box. the standard number is CV204. I'm sure a good parts shop can cross it over to the brand they handle. In the last century, I paid just over $10.

You may want to take an old one to make sure the mounting area is the same.

Also, the retaining screw is a good target for that anti-seize. make sure the housing doesn't bind on the coil or the rod and you should be good to go once the rod is adjusted.
 
thanks Mark, that's a good number according to NAPA. I'll have them tomorrow and will post back if they're correct.

Cost was $14.99
 
Mike, no problem.

Update for everyone else. I installed both of the CV204's. This part # is just the spring assembly, not the cover. The only minor issue I had was the spring hole for the arm is at the 9:00 position where the original is more like 3:00.

I checked to see if there was a left/right difference but the key hole in the block dictates the orientation. With that, I had to turn the cover around so the arm would clear, it's pulling from the opposite side now.

It takes a long time to get movement on the choke, after about 10 mins of idling it got to about 80% open. There's no restriction with the linkage so I assume it'll work fine once I get it underway with a faster warm-up.

Bob
 
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Critical item is that the choke blade opens as the coil warms up. No binding is a good thing. Now you know why I take a short cruise before making those final adjustments...especially in the springtime.

Depending upon the link rod, you may find adjusting it (bending) is easier to do with the rod removed from the rest of the linkage.

Sorry about the 'reversal' - can't say I remember having to do any of that but the rebuild was a while ago.
 
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