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Carburetor Rebuild Question

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antx227

New member
I've got an old m115a2 2 stroke and I'm doing a rebuild on the carbs and ran into a little problem. This is the first time I"m doing this and the motor has been sitting for years. I've gotten screws/jets out along with all the plastic pieces besides one that I can't get to budge. Its the plastic piece that the fuel line connects to. I know a few sprays won't effect it, but I wanted to do a deep clean and dip the carb overnight. Is it ok to leave that plastic piece on? Its a sturdier thicker plastic, but it is a very important piece since the fuel passes through it. Any thoughts? Thanks! carb.jpg
 
Leave the fuel nipples installed; you will be fine. Treat them gently; they are not available separately.
 
Just leave that part out of the solvent and blast all the circuits with high pressure water and blow dry. Lightly surface the mounting flange with 120 grit paper on a glass table. Just pull it in one direction only until it all shines the same. Always install a new gasket and just pull the carb down snug do not over tighten it down.
 
kimcrwbr1 said:
Just leave that part out of the solvent and blast all the circuits with high pressure water and blow dry. Lightly surface the mounting flange with 120 grit paper on a glass table. Just pull it in one direction only until it all shines the same. Always install a new gasket and just pull the carb down snug do not over tighten it down.
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I'm going to leave it in for a few hours and then take it out and see how it is. I'll make sure to rinse it when it comes out and blow compressed air to dry it out. I have a carb kit too so Ill be changing all the gaskets. Thanks for the advise!
 
kimcrwbr1 said:
Just leave that part out of the solvent and blast all the circuits with high pressure water and blow dry. Lightly surface the mounting flange with 120 grit paper on a glass table. Just pull it in one direction only until it all shines the same. Always install a new gasket and just pull the carb down snug do not over tighten it down.
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Are you on glue? After the bath in real carb dip, the best way to dislodge any softened organics is with a liberal application of generic spray carb cleaner. Sanding the base flat with that grit is ridiculous. They always seal well.
 
antx227 said:
I'm going to leave it in for a few hours and then take it out and see how it is. I'll make sure to rinse it when it comes out and blow compressed air to dry it out. I have a carb kit too so Ill be changing all the gaskets. Thanks for the advise!
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Yes. About 4 hours should do it.
 
pvanv said:
Are you on glue? After the bath in real carb dip, the best way to dislodge any softened organics is with a liberal application of generic spray carb cleaner. Sanding the base flat with that grit is ridiculous. They always seal well.[/QUOTE


No I dont do drugs and I have been doing it that way for over 20 years with 100% success so No I am not crazy!
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kimcrwbr1 said:
pvanv said:
Are you on glue? After the bath in real carb dip, the best way to dislodge any softened organics is with a liberal application of generic spray carb cleaner. Sanding the base flat with that grit is ridiculous. They always seal well.[/QUOTE

No I dont do drugs and I have been doing it that way for over 20 years with 100% success so No I am not crazy!
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So now we don't need carb cleaner, just water? SMH. And the flat carb base is always good to start with; If I were to discover one that wasn't (considering that these carbs mount with two gaskets and a spacer insulator, I would be very surprised. Exactly how many 115A2 carbs have you done? Don't confuse 20 years of good luck with 20 years of good practice. If you have had 100% success with hundreds of carbs, odds are the carbs weren't very bad to begin with.
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Once you soak the carb in carb cleaner blast the circuits with high pressure water and it scours any corrosion that may be present then blow dry with air to remove the water. There is more than one way to skin a cat.
 
kimcrwbr1 said:
Once you soak the carb in carb cleaner blast the circuits with high pressure water and it scours any corrosion that may be present then blow dry with air to remove the water. There is more than one way to skin a cat.
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Water will not... I repeat... will not dissolve corrosion. An acid could... basic chemistry.
 
johnnygjr said:
I do the same after soaking carbs. in solvent "carb. cleaner" we all can't be Crazy
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Not crazy, just ineffective, and possibly counter-productive. Yes, water is the "universal solvent", but getting it all out of the tiny passages is difficult. Using acetone-based carb cleaner spray both pushes the loosened organic bits out, and drys quickly. If any of the anodizing of the carb has been compromized, any water that remains in passages will enhance corrosion, making that carb worse than if water was not used. If you follow-up with compressed air, you will probably be OK, but why not just sacrifice a can of gumout?
 
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