Logo

Can not obtain WOT

Raymond 14

New member
I recently purchased a 1985 Bayliner 2850CB, powered by a Volvo Penta AQ280 single prop. The boat had only 275 hours on it. Outdrive rebuilt a year or so ago. First time out hesitated. Added fuel additive, cleared it up, ran better, but will not go above 3000RPMs. Slower speeds, it runs fine. Recently changed out the fuel filters and new plugs. Canister filter was full of small bits and dark gas. Marina guy advised to add a treatment ( name escapes me ) for ethanol. PO had installed an Acell(sp) electronic ignition. Going to run compression test and vacuum test soon. Found one hose , coming from fuel pump to spark arrestor off, replaced, no diff. With the new plugs runs really smooth, responsive, but still will not tach over 3000 and about 15 MPH. Also wil check siphon fitting at gas tank too. Any ideas or input would be greatly appreciated. I have been told that this boat , with this power is a dog, but it seems it should go a little faster and tach up. Thanks!
 
1... I recently purchased a 1985 Bayliner 2850CB, powered by a Volvo Penta AQ280 single prop.

The boat had only 275 hours on it. Outdrive rebuilt a year or so ago. First time out hesitated. Added fuel additive, cleared it up, ran better,
2.... but will not go above 3000RPMs. Slower speeds, it runs fine.

3.... Canister filter was full of small bits and dark gas.

4.... PO had installed an Acell(sp) electronic ignition.

5.... Going to run compression test and vacuum test soon.

6.... Found one hose , coming from fuel pump to spark arrestor off, replaced, no diff.


With the new plugs runs really smooth, responsive, but still will not tach over 3000 and about 15 MPH. Also wil check siphon fitting at gas tank too. Any ideas or input would be greatly appreciated.

7... I have been told that this boat , with this power is a dog, but it seems it should go a little faster and tach up.

1... The 280 represents the out drive model.
Your engine is likely an AQ260 and the 260 will be followed by an alpha character.
It would read like this: AQ260A/280 .... or AQ260B/280


2.... Your WOT RPM should be in the range of 4.2K to 4.4k RPM.
3k rpm and 15 mph says that something is wrong.
Hull bottom dirty, prop damaged, incorrect drive ratio, engine not in full tune, ignition advance not working, engine tired, etc.


3.... I would remove and toss the OEM fuel filter canister and replace it with a remotely located Marine filter.
The Parker/RACOR would be my choice.

4.... Can you post the style and model number for us?

5.... Good call!

6.... That would be the fuel pump diaphram burst protection hose and connects right to where you found it.


7... That is very true. This boat w/ a single engine needs the Duo Prop addition in order to perform decently.
I've done several DP additions to this very model, and it does make quite a difference.
BTW, the 2850 Contessa is a fairly nice boat for this size. Once you get things sorted out, you should enjoy it!
 
Sorry it took so long to get back. First the coil is an ACCEL HEI Super Coil #140003. I picked up a vacuum gauge /fuel pressure testor. Went to the boat with a friend, trying to find a vacuum line to hook it to , Carb is a 4 BBL QJET. At any rate, we finally located a vacum hose coming from the vacumm diaphram ( I think that is what it is called ) sits on the starboard side of carb, in front of the ele choke. The hose goes to the bottom front startboad side of carb. Question 1, would I hook the vacumum gauge to that? While looking over the engine, we moved the throttle, secondaries did not open. Ran the boat at the dock, with reved up the engine ( worked great ) but the secondaries did not open. My friend says this may be the vacumm diaphram. Another friend said that they will not open , unless under a load. One more thing, was not in the first post, hope this may help or mean something, to someone who has knowlegde. The best way to describe what the engine does at max throttle is , it almost seems and sounds something like a "rev limiter". I say this because I have one on my four stroke, MX bike. Friend says that could be because the secondaries are not opening. Again that is based on his beliefe that the the secondaries should open when the engine is reved up. As always any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. And , finally. Bedhind the throttle "linkage" ( where the cables sit in a brace ) is a black box. On the port side is a red button with 40 printed on it, behind this part is an electrical plug type set up. Anyone know what this is, or if it matters. For some reason, it just strikes me as it may be part of the problem. The guy at the parts store said there may be an ignition box for something to do with advance, could not find it.Could his be it.
 
Just an update. Ran a vacuum test today and the results were good. According to the directions between 15 and 20 inches is good. It was 15, when reved up , gauge climed to a steady 20. Again directions state to check timing and ignition, as Rick has stated also. Will do so this week end. Several friends ( all of which are not mechanics), are convinced it is in the carb or vacuum diaphragm at fault, as they claim this is what opens the secondaries. Again anyone that can offer ideas, it would be greatly appreciated.
 
1.....*First the coil is an ACCEL HEI Super Coil #140003.*

2....* At any rate, we finally located a vacum hose coming from the vacumm diaphram ( I think that is what it is called ) sits on the starboard side of carb, in front of the ele choke. The hose goes to the bottom front startboad side of carb. Question 1, would I hook the vacumum gauge to that?

3.... While looking over the engine, we moved the throttle, secondaries did not open. Ran the boat at the dock, with reved up the engine ( worked great ) but the secondaries did not open. My friend says this may be the vacumm diaphram.

4..... Another friend said that they will not open , unless under a load.

5..... One more thing, was not in the first post, hope this may help or mean something, to someone who has knowlegde. The best way to describe what the engine does at max throttle is , it almost seems and sounds something like a "rev limiter". I say this because I have one on my four stroke, MX bike.

6..... Friend says that could be because the secondaries are not opening. Again that is based on his beliefe that the the secondaries should open when the engine is reved up.

7..... Bedhind the throttle "linkage" ( where the cables sit in a brace ) is a black box. On the port side is a red button with 40 printed on it, behind this part is an electrical plug type set up. Anyone know what this is, or if it matters. For some reason, it just strikes me as it may be part of the problem.

8.... The guy at the parts store said there may be an ignition box for something to do with advance, could not find it.Could his be it.

1..... I have my suspicions that this is an Automotive ignition system installed on your Marine Engine! :mad:
images

If so, this is not legal for an enclosed engine, nor will it provide the correct advance curve for Marine loads!


2.... Pictures would better explain this port.


3.... If Rochester Quadrajet, the secondary throttle plate operation is mechanical.
The air door over the secondary throttle plates operates via manifold pressure, and when open, allows the the secondary fuel metering to occur.
IOW, the secondary plates are opening, but until the air door opens, the secondary fuel metering is not yet functioning.


4..... As good hearted as our friends are, it's always best to consult with experienced people.


5..... Again, check the progressive ignition advance.
It may or may not be related, but once you check this, it can be marked off your P of E list.
You'd recognize a "rev limiter" if one is installed.
images


6..... See #3 above.


7..... That is a circuit breaker (aka re-setable fuse) as per what Kim said.
The small black box (if I'm following you) is a five pin relay used in the "Start-by-pass" circuit. It should not play a role in your problem, per 'se.
I'd need to see your ignition system in order to suggest whether or not to abandom this.

8.... The ignition system may have been replaced.
Can you post photos of it for us?


1.... Again directions state to check timing and ignition, as Rick has stated also.

2.... Several friends ( all of which are not mechanics), are convinced it is in the carb or vacuum diaphragm at fault, as they claim this is what opens the secondaries.*

1....
Be sure that you not only check and set the Initial or BASE advance, but also check the progressive and TA (total advance).
Your manual will suggest a BASE advance, and may or may not suggest a TA.
The progressive and TA will be much more important.
Limited or no progressive advance, and your engine will not reach operating RPM under load.

2.... The AQ 260 used the Rochester Quadrajet carburetor.
images


Can you post photos of your carburetor?


.
 
I have some photos , my daughter will be assisting me with photos soon. Regarding the carb, like the photo Kim provided and the one in my in my Clymer Manual, mine does not have the "U" shaped return tube on top. Thanks so much for the help I will get the photos on soon along with ones of the distributor.
 
Regarding the carb, like the photo Kim provided and the one in my in my Clymer Manual, mine does not have the "U" shaped return tube on top. Thanks so much for the help I will get the photos on soon along with ones of the distributor.
Some of the Q-jets used the "J" tube, some did not.
Of the Q-jets that did not have the "J" tube, the front area ahead of the vent tube is "diked", for lack of a better term.
Also note the back-angle cut to the vent tube.
 

Attachments

  • AQ 260 Quadrajet dike and air door.jpg
    AQ 260 Quadrajet dike and air door.jpg
    45.2 KB · Views: 91
Ray, the photos come through on my end just fine.

The carburetor appears to be correct for this engine.

I'm not familiar with this ACCEL HEI Super Coil #140003 ignition system.
I'm also not familiar with seeing the spring-load distributor cap hold-down. Most all Marine Ignition system caps are screw-down.
When I do a search, I come up with automotive applications only.
If I were you, I'd research this to make sure that it is Marine approved, and that the curve is correct.
Wrong curve = no performance.
Wrong and excessive curve/TA = engine damage.

I also see what appears to be the ballast resistor still in use.


BTW, you'll be looking for an advance curve similar to this.
171135.jpg



.
 
Last edited:
I tried the suck on the diaphragm. Nothing happened . The "lever " that comes out of the back of the diaphragm ( is out ) hard to pushback in. The rod that connects to the "cam" at the rear of the carb moves real hard. If you touch the cam itself with your finger it opens the secondary falp very easily. If this ignition system is not right, would I be better off going back to good old points system, and could this wait till I store the boat for the winter? I am still wondering if I should see the secondary flap open when I "free rev" the engine in neutral , at the dock. I will check on this ignition and I guess then have a knowledgable person check the timimng and go from there. Could this diaphragm and electric choke be part of my problem. I nread somewhere that if there are choke problems , the secondaries will not open. Thanks so much to everyone for your time, inofrmation and knowledge.
 
The use of a ballast resistor is determined by the type of ignition triggering and ignition coil.
I don't believe that the Accel requires it, but you'll want to verify this.


As for a replacement, there are quite a few choices.... anywhere from Photo-Eye, to VR, to the Kettering system (points), to Hall Effect (my last choice), and in both Mechanical advance and/or EST (electronic spark timing).
My preference for this engine, would be a Mallory YLM524AV.

As for the diaphragm, it provides these functions;


  • at low manifold pressure (low vacuum) it allows the air door to open at will (as per secondary bore air velocity).
  • at higher manifold pressure (higher vacuum) it prevents the air door action.
  • it also pulls the choke plate open during vacuum.
  • and perhaps more importantly, allows the Helix to close the choke plate during low vacuum.
 
I had my mechanic look at the engine today. He advised to replace the "back flow " fitting in the fuel line ( can' t remember what it is called ) and to clean the 45 degree fitting. He removed the ballast resistor and advised that the ACCEL is automotive ( as Rick stated ) and needs replaced ( as Rick stated ) The secondaries do open. He will do this with the proper replacement and said that the boat should run fine after this, I want to thank everyone for their time and comments/knowledge.
 
Back
Top