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Can I replace rings with motor in the boat

dock_holiday

Contributing Member
"Hi, I am thinking of replacin

"Hi, I am thinking of replacing the rings in my AQ170, but I really don't have a good way to pull the motor all the way out of the boat. The boat is on it's trailer. I was thinking that if I get the motor loose from the drive and pull it forward a foot or so and roll it over onto one side or the other on top of a piece of plywood on the deck (placed under the motor to protect the deck) I could access the bottom end of the motor through the oil pan. I would be pulling and replacing the pistons and con. rods and replacing them with the motor on it's side. I currently have the head and manifolds off, and I think I would have room to do this if I remove the seats from the boat. I am thinking that 2 or 3 friends and I could man handle the motor forward and onto it's side. Any thoughts or suggestions? If this will work, which side should I lay it on? I was thinking I would put the manifold side down so I would not have to worry about crushing the fuel pump or distributor. Is this a crazy idea? Am I not thinking about some critical thing here? Any thoughts/advise very much appreciated.

Matt"
 
"Why don't You cut out the

"Why don't You cut out the bottom and just drop the oil-pan?
Sorry for being a bit rude, but....."
 
"Matt,
Do you know anyone w


"Matt,
Do you know anyone with a backhoe or forklift? If so, rig a sling and lift it out of the boat using the backhoe or forklift... Of course, your technique has merit, however, I advocate getting the engine out and on an engine stand... Just putting that out there...
BZ"
 
"Can't you rig up a scaffo

"Can't you rig up a scaffold using some solid timber to which to attach a chain block hoist? You may even consider towing the boat underneath some solid protruding structure, steel beam or even a sturdy tree branch from which to attach a chain block hoist. After lifting the engine high enough to clear the boat, you then just pull the trailer away and lower the engine to the ground. You will be handling less than 200kg anyway. Before changing the rings, you would need to take the block to a machine shop for honing the cylinder walls to permit the new rings to bed properly on re-assembly. This operation could not be done properly with the engine in the boat."
 
"This worked for me. <[img]"ht

"This worked for me.
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"Hi guys, thanks for the respo

"Hi guys, thanks for the responses. I was hoping to avoid building the whole beam between the trees + hoist contraption. Sounds like I should actually remove the motor from the boat if and when I do the rings. I think for now I will just put the "new" head on and see if that helps the compression on my really bad cyl. I know at some point I will want to/have to pull the motor and do the rings. The valves on the head I just pulled looked OK from the combustion chamber side and I pulled the valves from Cyl. #3 (it ran 20 psi in comp. test). Intake valve was all gunked up on the back side and the seat in the head and rim of the valve itself were slightly dimpled, eroded I guess. Looks like it was only able to make a partial seal. Hopefully the "new" head will be a big improvement.


El, nice boom truck... I bet that made it easy! Gotta watch those power lines though.


Thanks again

Matt"
 
"Hi Matt, don't worry, tho

"Hi Matt, don't worry, those power lines are more than 30 feet away from the truck.
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Back to your engine, once you install the "new" head, consider running a compression test and a leakdown test, that will tell you how the sealing is between the piston rings and the cylinder walls/pistons."
 
"El, I sure will do a comp. t

"El, I sure will do a comp. test with the new head. Not sure I have all the stuff to do a leak down test. I will review discussion strings on here to see if I have what I need to do it.

Thanks for all the help."
 
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