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Bypassing Trim Limit Switch

The hinge pins are female 12 point.
The sender part is a hex. If you look close, the hex has a bumb, the puck also has a bump. With drive all the way down and the bumps ligned up, this "should" set down position on the gage. The sender is a variable resister.
 
Why isn't the procedure from the manual being used?

As far as "they don't last long", if the wire insulation fails, it's not the switch that's bad, obviously. If the pivot isn't lubricated on schedule, water can get in and the switch can fail. My boat is 41 years old and because the previous owners didn't seem to know the definition of the words 'regularly scheduled maintenance', I seriously doubt the trim switches were changed and I didn't change them when I did all of the work needed after buying it. The trimmed up switch position was set by using the manual and when I worked at boat dealers, that always worked for me and yes, the wiper in the limit switch needed to be rotated in order to be accurate.

These aren't set at the factory, they slap them together to let the servicer find the correct position and the center turns without its own limit, so nothing will be damaged if it moves farther than 360°.
 
eriefeelin said:
The problem area is the wires

The problem area is the wires themselves where they enter the switch.I dock the boat and water seems to enter the switch or the wires fray.
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When you install the switch, how do you route the wires and how do you prevent kinking when the drive is raised and lowered? Are you using the plastic clip to hold it on the raw water hose that comes in the package, or leaving them loose?

If the switch isn't greased, water will enter.
 
My new ones came with the correct 1/2 rubber plugs that pinch together and seal out water. After they come through the transom inner plate I routed them against the transom with those zip ties you screw into the transom. They have a screw hole molded into the ends. I reused old holes where available with SS screws and a bit of 5200. And Yes the kit came with the little raw water hose clip and I did use that on the port side. One thing I added was spiral wrap above that clip area to prevent wear and also on the inside where they were routed near the exhaust manifold Y pipe. Just for a bit more protection.
I also installed new white plastic washers between the ring and the switches. Lubed everything with marine grease from Lucas.

As far as the manual I have been using a downloaded version, and research on forums like this one.
 
Roadking57 said:
My new ones came with the correct 1/2 rubber plugs that pinch together and seal out water. After they come through the transom inner plate I routed them against the transom with those zip ties you screw into the transom. They have a screw hole molded into the ends. I reused old holes where available with SS screws and a bit of 5200. And Yes the kit came with the little raw water hose clip and I did use that on the port side. One thing I added was spiral wrap above that clip area to prevent wear and also on the inside where they were routed near the exhaust manifold Y pipe. Just for a bit more protection.
I also installed new white plastic washers between the ring and the switches. Lubed everything with marine grease from Lucas.

As far as the manual I have been using a downloaded version, and research on forums like this one.
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Note: when greasing the fittings for the hinge pins, 1/2 pump or so is ALL that is required. If you over grease it the pucks will buldge and allow water to leak in. Very common with boat owners when greasing them. Just a word of caution...
 
jmac said:
"Yep, trailer button works &#4

"Yep, trailer button works (thank goodness). Thanks for the email. Here's what's weird, when the outdrive is almost all the way up (using the trailer button) the UP TRIM starts working, well beyond where the limit should be. That's why I thought maybe they were adjustable. On the switch, is there quick connectors or do you cut and solder?"
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The fact that it starts to work when it's almost all the way up shows that the center needs to be turned backward- remove the screws and with the drive in the position where it should stop, rotate the switch while it's still in place while someone holds the trim switch on the helm in the up position. Once it starts, remove the switch and rotate it so the screw slots are over the screw holes before reinserting it in the gimbal. Have the other person press the up button again and rotate the switch until it starts to move and back it off quickly. Insert the screws and makle them snug, so it can be turned, but not loose enough that the switch can move when trimming the drive.

This is an Alpha One? I didn't see any indication of the model or year- if it's anything from about '83 up to '94 (Alpha R, MR or original Alpha One), the procedure for setting these is in Manual #6. Gen II has a different manaual, even if it's the same setting and I don't have manuals for newer versions, so I can't say for sure but if yours is covered by this manual, I can take a photo of the page where it shows the correct distance for setting the up position. IIRC, it's about 21"- that will be safe for the U-joints, but it's not necessarily the correct distance, it's just the number that seems right from memory.
 
Roadking57 said:
In response about the trim indicator/limiter.......In my boat I am not the only driver. There are times I am in the water being pulled. So I rely on the system to protect me from drivers that are not aware as I am. That being said when I replaced my switches recently I found I had the exact same symptoms as jmac had. Trailer button worked for "UP" but the thumb button only worked for "DOWN". I found the crimped connector had no continuity from the bullet end of the wire to an inch behind the crimp. (received with crimps already installed). I removed the insulation and peeled the connector off only to find that the insulation was never stripped from the factory. Easy repair. The new wires were run while I had the lower unit off for a transom replacement. Now everything works as it should and if I want my grandsons to drive the boat I can relax in the back seat.
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You still want to teach them to be aware of anything that may be at/below the surface, especially on unfamiliar water. Also, local knowledge of shallow spots is imortant- my friend was driving his wife's cousin's pontoon and damaged the prop when they hit a shallow spot. Said the depth finder never made a sound and when I got there to advise (had killed my knee, so I was hobbled), I saw that the depth gauge's sounder had hit something and was facing backward.
 
there used to be hash marks on the hinge pins sides (case and hex) to ensure the unit was clocked in the correct operating range....fine tuning, if needed, by rotating the housing and them clamping down on the screws...
 
makomark said:
there used to be hash marks on the hinge pins sides (case and hex) to ensure the unit was clocked in the correct operating range....fine tuning, if needed, by rotating the housing and them clamping down on the screws...
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They only work if the wiper is in the correct position- this one is way off.
 
that was my point - the hash marks "clock" the hex (wiper) to the housing...which gets everything oriented properly...
 
There is a video from DIY with Michael Borders. He goes thru the procedure for adjusting the trim limit and trim sender for an Alpha one following the manual. Worth watching.

Response to jimn post #37: I am always in the boat when the youngins are allowed to drive. If I am being pulled my Queen usually is the driver. Especially if I am in a tube, She tries her best to dump me !!
 
Roadking57 said:
There is a video from DIY with Michael Borders. He goes thru the procedure for adjusting the trim limit and trim sender for an Alpha one following the manual. Worth watching.

Response to jimn post #37: I am always in the boat when the youngins are allowed to drive. If I am being pulled my Queen usually is the driver. Especially if I am in a tube, She tries her best to dump me !!
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Most who answer questions here have all had factory training and many years working in the business or independently.

No need to review others videos.......
 
bondo said:
"My thoughts on Trim Indicator

"My thoughts on Trim Indicators,+ Trim Limits are This,............

They Don't Work, for very long,+ are Not worth the Effort to change them Out..........
Mine are Not only By-passed,.... They're just plain Gone,... I replaced them with Aluminum caps........

Why,...???......
Well,.... Given just alittle bit of Seat Time,.........
I can tell Where the drive is,.........
It Should be a "Seat of the Pants" thing for an operator who's got even a vague idea of How,+ Why a boat responds to commands.......
And,..... I've got Enough Seat Time,.....
I KNOW, Exactly Where My drive Is, at All Times..............

Jim,....
Inside the boat,.. where the forward trim control wires come down to/by the transom Assembly,.. you'll find the Ends of the wires coming from the switches,.. They're connected to the trim harness with 2 bullet connectors each,..... Just unplug them there,+ Reconnect the trim harness Around them...... No cutting or Nothing,.. Just Unplug,+ Replug......"
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I agree with you 100%. Trim limits are for those who are new to boating. I've been in control of boats since I was 14 years old and never needed a trim limiter. It's just irritating when you need a little more lift and can't get it because of the limiter. Im trying to figure out how to get rid of mine. Thanks for the info. I'll try your method.
 
eriefeelin said:
If the engineers would have de

If the engineers would have designed these trim limit switches better to begin with I would not be asking how to bypass them.They are very poorly designed.I'm on my third one and I am tired of replacing them.I don't use the trim much and when I do I never come close to the maximum trim.Thanks.
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The OEM switches last a lot longer than the aftermarket type, which use PVC insulation and if you have ever cursed a power cord on something made in China, you're seeing the same cause- it's far less flexible than the rubber insulation on the OEM. My boat is an '84 4 Winns and the insulation finally broke open last year- that doesn't scream 'poorly designed'.

If you want them to last longer, spend the money or buy from a place that sells overstock/inventory buyouts but even discounted, the price I found is insane.
 
PepperVII said:
I agree with you 100%. Trim limits are for those who are new to boating. I've been in control of boats since I was 14 years old and never needed a trim limiter. It's just irritating when you need a little more lift and can't get it because of the limiter. Im trying to figure out how to get rid of mine. Thanks for the info. I'll try your method.
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Why not adjust it so you can get what you want? You won't be able to trim it lower, but if you want more upward, it will help.
 
PepperVII said:
I agree with you 100%. Trim limits are for those who are new to boating. I've been in control of boats since I was 14 years old and never needed a trim limiter. It's just irritating when you need a little more lift and can't get it because of the limiter. Im trying to figure out how to get rid of mine. Thanks for the info. I'll try your method.
Click to expand...
just bypass it inside the transom. Where the limit plugs into the trim harness just jumper it and you will have no diff between trailer and trim. Yours may also be out of adjustment. there is a spec for how long the hyd cyl should be when it opens the limit switch
 
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