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Bravo 1 trim cyl. - how free should it be? 2003

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baytro23

Regular Contributor
I've got a 2003 Bravo 1 that will go up but not down. Motor runs in both directions. If someone holds trim down and I go stand (180#) on the drive it will go down. I disconnected both arms and 1 works and the other is motionless in both directions. I pulled the bad one and rigged up a chain hoist to extend it. Then rigged up a floor jack to compress it. When trying to extend it at 1st it seemed extremely difficult then some oil shot out and I fully extended it. It took a lot of pressure to collapse it too. I extended it 1 more time and it is extended now. It still seems very difficult to move. Does this sound right or do I still have a problem? Is there a way to free them up?
 
Re: Bravo 1 trim cyl. - how free should it be?

should be able to slide it in and out like a trombone with only slight friction if both oil ports are open.

You don't want to just free it up - disassemble and evaluate/repair or replace
 
Re: Bravo 1 trim cyl. - how free should it be?

I don't have a spanner wrench, why can't I leave the anode on and put a big pipe wrench on it? Did you know one end of a bravo trim cylinder fits perfectly into the square of your receiver hitch? You can get the pin in also, better than a bench vice.
 
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Re: Bravo 1 trim cyl. - how free should it be?

Got it fixed (I guess) haven't re-installed yet to test. Now I can work it like an accordion whereas before I believe it took over 1000# of force to move it. I problem was the plunger was stuck to the outer cap. I removed the outer cap with a pipe wrench on the zinc. I unbolted the assembly from the inner end of the plunger and sat it aside. To get the cap off the plunger, I stood it up on a board, put an open end wrench on the inside of the cap, beat on the wrench with a 24oz. framing hammer. Disassembled the end of the cap (scraper, washer, clip) and cleaned corrosion from everywhere. Oiled and re-assembled. Hope it works.
 
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